There have been many threads regarding battery relocations to the front under the spare tire, but after spending a few days, a few bucks, a few cuts/scrapes, a few bandaids and a few (more than a few cuss words) I finally got mine completed and thought I'd share ... for what that's worth.
One thing that I was concerned about going into this project was to have the cables securely routed and shielded so that I would not have to worry about shorts. "They burn, don't they?" is not a club that I wanted to join. I took pics as I went through this. I didn't bother taking any pics of the battery box installation as that is a fairly universal process that is covered in other threads. I finally finished this project and the car still starts and runs ... a major victory in my book. The only thing that I may still add is a main power fuse from an S10 pickup or Blazer for added security. Hope that someone can use my learnings.

I wanted to insulated the holes in the sides of the battery box to prevent the cable insulation from chafing. After drilling the holes in the box I installed these rubber grommets.


Here's the rubber grommets that got from Lowe's.


I got my cables from a Pick 'n Pull from Olds Auroras. Got two ... one for the positive cable to the starter and another from the negative to the engine block stud.


The cables were too long so I had to shortenen them and solder on new terminals. I used shrink tubing to seal off the ends.


One thing that I did to protect the cables was to route them through heavy plastic tubing that is used for lawn sprinkler connections. It is very sturdy material and it is stiff, but can be bent into low angle curves. I ran both positive and negative cables through this stuff from front to rear. Here is the negative connection at the engine. 3800 SC's have a nice stud at the trans. Use can see the tubing in this image.



Here is cable at the starter. Same tubing on the positive cable.


To keep movement of the cables to a minimum I used rubber lined clamps at the firewall and also at the front battery box to keep them from migrating.




Due to the increased O.D. of the cables with the tubing I was not able to run them through the brackets that hold the coolant and refrigerant tubes. As these brackets are not insulated I wasn't too crazy about routing unprotected cables through these anyway. I unbolted the center support plate, placed the cables by the existing tubing and remounted the support plate. Plenty of protection here.


Cables running on top of the front crossmember


Here is a pic of the battery installed. You can also see a cable running from the negative battery terminal to a stud at the master cylinder. This provides a chassis ground as well as a powertrain ground.



As long as I was being cautious about insulation I placed a square of dense foam rubber on top of the battery to keep it from chafing on the spare tire wheel.


I did get lucky with one item. I did not have to cut/trim the plastic at the lower spare tire well to get the spare to fit. In a previous post Archie said to lift up on the battery carrying strap while installing the spare. Worked like a charm.



One objective of this project was to also relocate my coil pack. It was mounted low on the center of the firewall at the end of the fuel tank. Weird place to have it mounted and caused some bizarre routing of the spark plug wires. I was able to remount it in the area where the battery previously resided. Much better location. I'll clean up the wiring at C500 and the coils at a later date ... after my hands heal.

Nice clean install!
Other will benefit from this.
I like the fact that you grounded up front as well as in the back.

------------------
Red 1988 GT 5 speed LQ1 Powered
Poly all around, Koni's and Lowered
Items for sale - cradle support - 3800 tranny mounts
http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww339/CC_Rider/

Nice work! I need to do some re-securing of my cables.

One thing that I omitted from my project. The irrigation tubing that I used has only a slightly larger ID than the Aurora battery cables OD. I measured the cable wire diameter and they spec'd out at 1 gauge. I sprayed WD40 into the irrigation tubing as I slid in the battery cables. I don't think that I would have been able to get the cables through the tubing without the lube.

You and I were discussing this before I went to the 30th. Haven't messed with car since coming back. Almost lost hanging baskets for lack of water while on trip. Went to Home Depot to get drip system for plants and while there realized the tubing would work well for cables. Today sign onto PFF and see where you had posted this.
Glad to know it works before installing. Good pictures and details.

How did you rout the hot wire from the battery to the C500? From the starter?

quote Originally posted by Monstertone: How did you rout the hot wire from the battery to the C500? From the starter?

Wow you pulled this one out of the grave. lol Yes, folks generally pull the power from the starter.

I did mine a bit differently; I ran the cables in Schedule 40 tubing, which I heated and bent up at each end. I also installed a power disconnect switch up front next to the spare tire 9In an emergency, You would otherwise have to remove the spare to shut off power.

I did not like the fact that a large power cable would be energized at all times right next to the gas tank, so I installed a Ford-style separate starter solenoid up front, then split the starter wire so both solenoids are energized during starting.......I then ran an 8 gauge wire back to the power block....I am in process of installing a large fuse so that if I get "High-centered" the fuse would blow shutting down power to the cable.......

I admit that I have not tested ths safety design in an actual wreck.......

Wire clips are ok but What is the metal holding up the cables here?

CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

Why?
1. Battery shorted easily dumps 300+ amps and burns thru most sheet metal.

2. Plastic wire insulation may seem Very tough but many can be "cut" and short out over time when constant pressure/vibration is applied pinch between tank and what look like tank strap.
Even when edges aren't sharp, Many plastic insulation can "cold flow" enough to cause big problems when pressure hits them in small areas.

Is why Telco Cable and many others have load spreading supports at poles and houses like "Kellems grip" and similar. Saves not only wire breaking but saves the insulation too. If possible most avoid even this and hang wires by grounds or guide wires.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Me I installed my positive wire inside the car, I notice that your positive wire to the starter passes too close to the exhaust you should pass it lower