Just got new wheels/tires and I'm having the car aligned. The guy told me that the left rear camber is not within specs. My car is at -.3 but spec is -1.3 thru -.8, so I'm half a degree out of spec. He said that since there's no adjustment for this, they typically elongate the strut mount holes to bring it in. Wants to charge me $100 to do it.
First question: is this a hack?
Second question: since I just got new tires, should I get this fixed?
I dont think it's about the hardware, he said that the strut wont come out to that position and that he had to elongate the holes that the strut mounts in. Does that make sense?
Just got new wheels/tires and I'm having the car aligned. The guy told me that the left rear camber is not within specs. My car is at -.3 but spec is -1.3 thru -.8, so I'm half a degree out of spec. He said that since there's no adjustment for this, they typically elongate the strut mount holes to bring it in. Wants to charge me $100 to do it.
First question: is this a hack?
Second question: since I just got new tires, should I get this fixed?
Unless your car is damaged/modified in some other way, that is a hack and somebody is fishing for money. Take your car somewhere else. The most you need are the adjustable camber bolts.
If my source is correct... Spec is -0.3 to +1.3 - Preferred is +0.5 for the front Spec is -0.5 to -1.5 - Preferred is -1.0 for the rear
Fiero camber is adjusted by pivoting the knuckle/strut connection via a slotted hole at the bottom not the three small strut mounting bolts at the top.
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 07-12-2013).]
Also the stock struts are already slotted, mine were at least, so If you go home with the car, break free the rear camber strut bolts, and see for yourself if they are slotted. If the struts are really seized to the knuckle, soak in pb blaster until you can get them loose, then either bring it back or go somewhere else. I recommend the camber bolts though, it makes the alignment guys shut up because they always complain about changing the camber without them.
I dont think it's about the hardware, he said that the strut wont come out to that position and that he had to elongate the holes that the strut mounts in. Does that make sense?
the camber bolts are flat on the side and allow more adjustment.. no need to cut holes larger or spend $100..
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87 GT series 1 3800sc (7.597 @88.53 1.579 60ft) (series II swap in progress) 85GT Northstar 86GT 3800 n/a
Guy is a hack. I run camber plates, but only because I need -3+ for racing. I get 0 to -2.2 from the stock camber bolts on the lower part of the strut. (1987 GT)
the camber bolts are flat on the side and allow more adjustment.. no need to cut holes larger or spend $100..
Ahhh, now I understand why you were saying to get the camber bolts But from the looks of the specification, -.3 is ok then? I'm replacing the shocks/struts soon anyway so I can put the camber bolts in at that time I guess.
Originally posted by CodeSlinger: He said that since there's no adjustment for this...
Not true. As was mentioned already, the rear suspension does in fact have camber adjustment built in. But your alignment tech is apparently not aware of that. Chances are you probably don't even need to purchase camber bolts. You just need to dislodge the alignment tech's head from his butt.
"Unless your car is damaged/modified in some other way, that is a hack and somebody is fishing for money. Take your car somewhere else. The most you need are the adjustable camber bolts."
unless 1 side of the car is lower than the other, bad spring, low tire, rusted frame, there is No reason that the stock struts can't be put into spec. find a different shop ! I had that happen to me, the shop said they couldn't set the camber on the front. I took it home, wife "timed it", 7 minutes from the time it left the ground till it was done! The people in the shops are either un qualified hacks or just Lazy ! they DO "Charge you" anyway, whether it's done right or Not !
I did talk with the guy who runs the Firestone shop (not the guy who did the alignment) when I went to pick up the car. He told me that 'slotting' them was a standard and approved/recommended procedure (in general, not just for Fieros). AND I just bought new 17" wheels/tires for the car and the mechanic puts on the alignment form "large tires will cause handling problems" or something to that tune. REALLY? Tell me how these cute little wheels cause a problem (needless plug to show off...couldn't resist)
I bought new shocks/struts a couple months ago and I'm going to put them on soon, so I'll take a look at what's going on then. Is there a good resource for installing the shocks and struts? I've done shocks, but no struts before.
------------------ '87 GT 5-speed
[This message has been edited by CodeSlinger (edited 07-15-2013).]
For a while there were replacement struts late 80s early 90s that were not slotted. I prefer slotted holes. Some of the Camber Correction Bolt kits work by having a smaller diameter bolt. If they can get it around -.5 on the rear, leave it alone. More than that is not needed unless you intend on racing. To get the tire to (bite) more in corners. This helps the grab a little but at a cost of tire wear. As far as the different rims and tires. As long as the scrub radius(the area that the weight is pushed down to) is close to the stock area you are OK. Rim offset and diameter are important here. If you make a straight line down from the strut to where it contacts the road, (the angle the spring tension is pushing down)would be considered the scrub radius. It should be somewhere in the middle of the tire. If you don't change the offset and increase the diameter, the scrub radius falls further out causing a more roll like feel. In the opposite side(depending on tire width and offset), the scrub radius can land further in. Causing a more sliding out like feel. However if that angle falls near the stock area, you just have to worry about clearance. I'm using 215/55/16, which end up almost the same outside diameter as the stock tires and rims. That and only with a 10mm difference in offset, I ended up with the same handling. Except with a much better tire. I can go up to a 215/65/16 and still stay in a very safe range. If I went to 17s, I could go wider, but I don't really need it. I do drive in wet conditions, so going to a 50/45 series starts to have a hydroplane issue. Plus I like to have a little more side wall. 35/40 series feels like your riding on the rims
Sorry about the rewrite. Reading a bit more carefully. Did you say they wanted to elongate the mounting holes at the top of the strut? NEVER do that. Only for struts that don't support spring weight. Like 82-late 90s Camaros and Mustangs. Those are already elongated by the factory, just have to pop out the factory rivets. On a spring loaded strut tower. DON'T DO IT. And the ones that are, have a reinforced plate in the strut tower and don't have mounting bolts at the bottom(like a Ford Taraus) Fieros don't (just a standard GM strut tower top)
I put KYB's on mine. The lower bolt hole was not slotted enough to adjust much camber. It had enough movement to be within spec but not to get a more aggressive w/in spec camber. In that case increasing slot would be a legitimate and appropriate way to get more negative camber. It would only be necessary because my after-market parts have a shorter slot.
Also, I agree that your mechanic sounds sketchy. increasing slot size is okay. His reason... I'm not sold.
I wrapped the ratchet strap around the subframe, and to the pivot point between the strut and knuckle/spindle. ratcheted tight so negative camber could be achieved. tightened camber/strut bolts and then loosened ratchet strap.
I wrapped the ratchet strap around the subframe, and to the pivot point between the strut and knuckle/spindle. ratcheted tight so negative camber could be achieved. tightened camber/strut bolts and then loosened ratchet strap.
Yup... otherwise you could be/are fighting the spring wanting to stay straight at the edge of adjustment and trying to tighten the bolts at the same time.
But from the looks of the specification, -.3 is ok then? I'm replacing the shocks/struts soon anyway so I can put the camber bolts in at that time I guess.
