I checked every GM vehicle at the pick-n-pull...there really weren't many. I wasn't impressed. Only found 3 GMs with distributors...none were HEI. As junkyards go, that wasn't a great one. I need to find a better place locally.
Unfortunately, that site you linked to is a US site. Shipping would actually be more than $10 for me here. Doesn't really make it cost effective. I'll see if I can find something locally.
If you are interested I can send it USPS first class international mail. $8.00 total for an HEI Tach pigtail including postage. No tracking number on USPS first class international mail.
paypal me at gofast@reddevilriver.com if you want it.
If you are interested I can send it USPS first class international mail. $8.00 total for an HEI Tach pigtail including postage. No tracking number on USPS first class international mail.
paypal me at gofast@reddevilriver.com if you want it.
Thanks phonedawgz. I'll check a couple of local places tomorrow to see if I can pick one up here first. If I can't track one down in the next few days then I'll take you up on the offer
Found another auto-wrecker near by. In fact it was only ten minutes from my house...not sure why I never knew about it They let me walk around and root for parts...as long as I took them off they were cheap. (They would have charged me $20 to remove a little $2 connector ...no thanks, I'll get that myself...) Couldn't find the tach connector, but I did find another HEI Battery connector, so I grabbed that. Have to modify it slightly...grind off the alignment tab, grind down the one edge slightly and then cut a small slot. The slot was the tough part since you have to cut under the locking tab. After cutting the tip of my thumb with the blade (....yes...I saw that coming ) I switched to using a tiny slot screwdriver with the tip slightly sharpened...the plastic was soft enough to allow the screwdriver to be pushed straight down into the connector and gently cut out the slot. Fits perfectly.
Back to the wiring...
I've finished hooking up all engine bay wires/sensors and am now working in the car to hook everything. The time taken before hand to identify every wire/circuit and the corresponding connection point is well worth it. Should be able to get it finished tomorrow.
Great weekend...managed to get the wiring almost completely finished.
Here's a side by side pic of the original 2.5L ECM layout compared to the 4.9L ECM layout. Unfortunately I couldn't make it quite as neat and tidy as the original since I had to add an extra foot of harness length to account for the stretch I'll be doing later. I also still have to add the PassKey circuit and the speedo circuit. Once I get those added, I'll try to tidy up the wire layout a bit.
Once I got everything connected, I hooked up the battery...wanted to make sure there was no arcs-and-sparks. Turned the key and everything came to life The gauges all reset to their zero settings (a nice treat for a Fiero) and all the right dash lights came on. Still doesn't prove that everything is hooked up correctly, but it looks good so far!
Your oil pressure sender looks like one for a light, not a gauge. The gauge oil pressure senders are usually longer. You will know for sure it is bad if the oil pressure gauge is at zero - key on engine off, and then jumps to beyond full scale as soon as the engine starts. Your 88 2.5 should have had the correct oil pressure sender on it. Even if you included the 4th black ground wire on the 4.9 OPS you can still use the 3 pin Fiero gauge sender. The gauge sender grounds internally.
It is recommended to get the VATs programmed out of the PROM vs using a VATs emulator. For the same cost you can also get a PROM programmed for the swap.
I also spy the cruise control connector next to your C203. If you want to keep the cruise grab a digital cruise servo from a 3800 and mount it in the stock Fiero cruise location.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-25-2014).]
Your oil pressure sender looks like one for a light, not a gauge. The gauge oil pressure senders are usually longer. You will know for sure it is bad if the oil pressure gauge is at zero - key on engine off, and then jumps to beyond full scale as soon as the engine starts. Your 88 2.5 should have had the correct oil pressure sender on it. Even if you included the 4th black ground wire on the 4.9 OPS you can still use the 3 pin Fiero gauge sender. The gauge sender grounds internally.
It is recommended to get the VATs programmed out of the PROM vs using a VATs emulator. For the same cost you can also get a PROM programmed for the swap.
Yes...the correct cable, but wrong sender. The one on my 2.5 looked really dicey, so I left it on when I sold the engine. Looked at the pick-n-pull and couldn't find one. I'll just buy a new one since they are cheap. I'm still a month or so away from starting the engine, unfortunately.
The VATs emulator is actually free since I have all the components available in my workshop ...just haven't had a moment to build one yet.
What elements would get changed in the PROM? How much does it usually cost? What are the disadvantages of not getting it modified for the swap?
You will get check engine lights for many things. Unless they are programmed out of the PROM, your check engine light is pretty much useless since it will be on all the time. The stock ECM will look for activity from the BCM, will look for the stock vacuum (POS) caddy cruise control, will look for the heated windshield.
You will also need the automatic transmission programmed out.
If you are going to get these programmed out, then checking out the VATs isn't anything more.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 05-25-2014).]
I also spy the cruise control connector next to your C203. If you want to keep the cruise grab a digital cruise servo from a 3800 and mount it in the stock Fiero cruise location.
The car actually did not come with cruise, but I do have everything needed if I wanted to add it (the Fiero specific items came off a friend's Fiero, and of course the 4.9 had everything). For the moment I don't plan on adding it, but I labelled the wiring and left it in place just in case I change my mind....which I do frequently
You will get check engine lights for many things. Unless they are programmed out of the PROM, your check engine light is pretty much useless since it will be on all the time. The stock ECM will look for activity from the BCM, will look for the stock vacuum (POS) caddy cruise control, will look for the heated windshield.
You will also need the automatic transmission programmed out.
If you are going to get these programmed out, then checking out the VATs isn't anything more.
My only concern with not getting it done was that there was something that I wasn't aware of that would adversely affect the drivability of the car. I'm new to dealing with ECMs, so I planned on doing a lot more research, picking up the equipment and learning how to reprogram the PROM myself. For this reason, I wasn't planning on touching the PROM yet.
I made a mistake. The little connector below C203 is for the cruise but I thought both sides of the connector were in place. I see now that just the engine side of that connector was in place.
To program your ECM you will need a BIN editor for your ECM. The only program that I know of that currently works with the 2240 is Tuner CATs. You will have to purchase both the base program and the bin editing definition for your ECM. There are three different ones for the 2240 4.9 ECMs and I would not be able to tell you exactly which one you need. The people at TunerCats would however I am sure.
Then the next thing is to figure out how to change the programming of your PROM. You could get a UV eraser and find a programmer that programs the old PROMs but that is fairly inconvenient. My recommendation is to get a few 27SF512 chips and carefully solder a socket in place of your PROM. With this you won't need to have a PROM reader/programmer that works with the old PROMs. The 27SF512 chips erase electronically so you can instantly erase them before you reprogram them. The BURN2 programmer will work with them. http://www.moates.net/burn2...-p-197.html?cPath=94
Your engine won't run well with an AT prom in it. Many SES codes have with them a change or reduced power output when the code is present. I can't tell you exactly what yours is going to do since I have never tried to run an 4.9 AT programmed ECM on a 4.9 MT.
You would still be best off to start with using someone else's work of what they found works good for a 4.9 MT set up.
--- You would also come with less expense just having someone program your chip and be done with it.
I made a mistake. The little connector below C203 is for the cruise but I thought both sides of the connector were in place. I see now that just the engine side of that connector was in place.
To program your ECM you will need a BIN editor for your ECM. The only program that I know of that currently works with the 2240 is Tuner CATs. You will have to purchase both the base program and the bin editing definition for your ECM. There are three different ones for the 2240 4.9 ECMs and I would not be able to tell you exactly which one you need. The people at TunerCats would however I am sure.
Then the next thing is to figure out how to change the programming of your PROM. You could get a UV eraser and find a programmer that programs the old PROMs but that is fairly inconvenient. My recommendation is to get a few 27SF512 chips and carefully solder a socket in place of your PROM. With this you won't need to have a PROM reader/programmer that works with the old PROMs. The 27SF512 chips erase electronically so you can instantly erase them before you reprogram them. The BURN2 programmer will work with them. http://www.moates.net/burn2...-p-197.html?cPath=94
Your engine won't run well with an AT prom in it. Many SES codes have with them a change or reduced power output when the code is present. I can't tell you exactly what yours is going to do since I have never tried to run an 4.9 AT programmed ECM on a 4.9 MT.
You would still be best off to start with using someone else's work of what they found works good for a 4.9 MT set up.
--- You would also come with less expense just having someone program your chip and be done with it.
Thanks Phonedawgz. That was the burner I had looked at before. I will likely get the PROM programmed by someone else to start, but my intention is still to learn how to do this myself for future tuning/swaps. I've seen that a couple people on the forum program PROMs for the 4.9....I'll do a little more research and contact one of them.
Originally posted by phonedawgz: ... Your engine won't run well with an AT prom in it. Many SES codes have with them a change or reduced power output when the code is present. I can't tell you exactly what yours is going to do since I have never tried to run an 4.9 AT programmed ECM on a 4.9 MT.
You would still be best off to start with using someone else's work of what they found works good for a 4.9 MT set up.
The PCM needs to be "faked out". There are a couple of pins that need to be grounded that will make the PCM believe that the tranny is in "Drive". I don't remember what they are, however.
The PCM needs to be "faked out". There are a couple of pins that need to be grounded that will make the PCM believe that the tranny is in "Drive". I don't remember what they are, however.
I believe the info came from this forum, however.
I followed Mickey_Moose's thread ( https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098096.html ) very closely, so I'm not sure if there is anything else required or if everything has been done to completely fool the PCM. Among other things, there were two tranny pins that were grounded.
The wires from the "Range" switch (P, N, D, 1, 2, 3) need to be hard wired to show D. They are either grounded or open so its pretty easy to do.
The shift solenoid and TCC wires need to have resistors wired in so the ECM sees a load on each circuit. Once this is done, the ECM will think its is shifting the auto and keep the ecm from setting most of the transmission codes.
You might also try just turning off all the automatic DTC and see if that takes care of the problem.
For the 4.9/Manual swaps, I use the 7730 ecm from a 305/5 speed camaro.
I'll order a burner and some chips this weekend and will be working on the ECM tuning once I get the car up and running (thanks Phonedawgz!).
In the meantime, finally got around to installing the rear cradle bolts. Since mine had separated inside the frame, I'd had to cut both sides open to access them. I decided to attach the nuts to 6"x2" plates that would ensure the nuts could never come loose and spin.
I've also mounted the battery in the trunk for now. The great thing about this is that you can use the stock battery cables. I had thought about mounting the battery up front, but since I'm planning on doing the Murcielago kit, this may not be the best solution. In fact, once the car is stretched, I'll likely put the battery back in its stock location...so the effort to move it up front really isn't worth it. I've run the battery cables, just need to put a small tray and clamp to secure the battery.
I used some thick grommets, but also added silicon just to ensure there were no gaps...trunk is still carpeted and I'd hate water getting in if I'm driving in the rain.
Busy day today. Started by looking at the oil cooler delete. I had decided that I wanted to delete the cooler, but originally figured I'd keep the filter housing untouched so I could add a cooler later when I install the Murcielago body kit, since unlike the Fiero it has a great spot specifically for that. The first option was to take a regular cooler line and run it from the inlet to the outlet. Several issues with that...firstly, I couldn't find one at any wreckers (they all seemed to be cut). I didn't feel like paying about $50 to get a new one. Secondly, I took the cut remains of the one that I did have and found that it really wouldn't fit well due to its length and the bent solid tubes. The second option was to construct a small bypass loop myself. This was a better option since I could make a small bypass hose, which would be less likely to interfere with anything. The downside was that after pricing all the parts, it was also about $50. After weeks of looking and planning I finally gave up and moved on to option 3...internal filter housing bypass. Since I found several filter housings at the wreckers for just a few dollars, I figured this was the best option...it would be cheap to revert back to a regular filter when the time came.
Here's a breakdown of the steps I followed to modify the filter housing to bypass the cooler...(This is all based on the original thread posted by josef644)
Remove the oil filter housing. 15mm bolts. The bolt nearest the distributor just needs to be loosened, since it open at the side. The other bolt needs to be completely removed.
Here's the filter housing removed.
Next step is to remove the bypass valve. You don't need it, so don't worry about it getting damaged. It is a light press fit and can be removed with a set of vise grips. The rubber plug (nearest the long bolt that was taken out) comes out to protect it for the next step. It pulls out easily with a finger nail.
The next part is the tricky part...you have to carefully drill out the oil passage up to a size of 3/8". It is an aluminum housing so it drills easily, but be aware that you are near the edge of the housing and there is minimal material. You are just enlarging the existing passage so you use a small drill bit for alignment. I strongly recommend using a drill press instead of a hand drill. Once the small drill bit is lined up, you can secure the housing and drill using increasingly larger bits until you reach 3/8". Make sure you clean the housing well when you are done to get rid of all the aluminum particles.
This is where I tried something a bit different that the original oil cooler delete thread. It recommends buying a couple of M20x1.5 plugs. Instead, since I had the two oil cooler lines with the cooler ends cut off, I simply cut the tubes just next to the threaded fitting. (make sure you carefully remove the o-rings before you start any work on these two pieces). I then welded the ends (the hex nut end) to seal the tube and fitting, and replaced the o-ring. This was the quickest/cheapest solution that also included an o-ring for sealing each plug.
The housing can now be re-installed with the plugs, filter and pressure sender and you are all done.
I next installed the rear brake rotors, calipers and e-brake. Everything tested properly with no issues.
I used this as an opportunity to put the wheels on and roll the car out onto the driveway. It really needed a good cleaning after all the grinding and welding near it. Hot sunny day...how could you not want to work outside for a bit!
Next issue. Installed the rear hatch...and it doesn't close... The torsion bar hits the alternator (another good reason to mount it low instead of in the stock position).
I opted to remove the one torsion bar using the procedure outlined in the Fiero Store Tech Tips . Have to be careful removing the torsion bar...could take out the back glass easily, or worse, could really hurt yourself! I left the one torsion bar that doesn't interfere. It's not strong enough to lift the hatch, but does take a lot of the weight. There is enough spring in it to allow the power hatch release to pop the hatch. I'll go to the pick n pull sometime and pick up a couple of hood shocks.
Note how nicely the exhaust lines up. ...can't wait to add some chrome tips to dress it up. ...having said that, the exhaust gets relocated when I do the body kit, so should I even bother with the tips now? I'm mad that somehow one of the rear lights got broken. I have all the pieces, so I'll glue them back in place. I keep trying to remind myself that it doesn't matter since they'll be thrown out when I put the body kit on.
Finally all cleaned up and looking like it's ready to drive! ...too bad it's missing a starter motor....and a fuel pump...and fuel lines...and a gas tank...and coolant lines...etc...etc...
I put the stock air intake system on just to see how it looks. I HATE HATE HATE the stock air intake system. It will not be staying. I think that is the single most unattractive part of most 4.9L swaps. For some reason it really makes the clutter stand out. I plan on designing and building my own intake. Stay tuned for that
Ordered my new starter motor and a handful of other parts from Rockauto. Hopefully get those within the next week or so. My task list is starting to thin out.
There is a guy on here who swapped in a 4.9 and did the drilled bypass like you just did. Shortly after the completed swap he had no compression or power.... Ended up doing a 3.4 pushrod i think. I used a looped hose to bypass the oil cooler partly b/c I felt that the drilling proceedure (if done wrong) may result in a bypassed filter or possibly bypassed oilling system! This could have caused the other guys engine to wear so quickly... I'll never know but chose the chicken route to be safe
Ps: swap looks great by the way!!!
[This message has been edited by Reallybig (edited 06-01-2014).]
I took some time to trace the flow path of the oil through the housing. I wanted to make sure it was actually going where I thought it should. Everything looks good... but hey, if it fails then that will be my opportunity to do the next swap, lol. Having fun with this one. .. why stop now?
I totally agree. What are replacement options other than making your own? I'm still years away from a swap. I have 4 kids, with 2 in college, so money is tight for a few more years, but my goal is 2 Fiero swaps. One econo swap, like an ecotec, a daily driver. Then a loud, noisy, torque monster swap. I'm not very knowledgeable on these things, but I have replaced clutches and engines before. I am actually leaning towards the 4.9 as the swap of choice. It appears to be the easiest of the V8 swaps. I'm sure the LS swap is out of my league, and I'm guessing the N* one is also. Again though, I have always hated that intake on the 4.9 it is a big detractor from that engine. Great job so far Neil. I have saved your thread to favorites for future use.
I totally agree. What are replacement options other than making your own? I'm still years away from a swap. I have 4 kids, with 2 in college, so money is tight for a few more years, but my goal is 2 Fiero swaps. One econo swap, like an ecotec, a daily driver. Then a loud, noisy, torque monster swap. I'm not very knowledgeable on these things, but I have replaced clutches and engines before. I am actually leaning towards the 4.9 as the swap of choice. It appears to be the easiest of the V8 swaps. I'm sure the LS swap is out of my league, and I'm guessing the N* one is also. Again though, I have always hated that intake on the 4.9 it is a big detractor from that engine. Great job so far Neil. I have saved your thread to favorites for future use.
Jim
I am temporarily using a classic looking chrome dinner plate sandwiching a round airfilter style thats only about 8" diameter. It makes the stock air intake runner look fantastic! Lol. I like the idea of building a custom one so that no one recognizes the engine and i'll have something unique! I am looking forward to what neil88 comes up with! I'm hoping to see his done first so I know what I am up against creatively speaking
Some people have used a factory dodge truck TBI cap - it is a little lower profile.
They are rather spendy, but many of the supercharger carb hats will fit the TBI, but they will likely need a spacer to get them up/over the distributor. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.h...kw=carb+hat&_sacat=0
If you are going to low mount the alternator, then I would recommend running the cold air intake to the other side. Here an air intake I fabbed up for my last 4.9 using mandrel bent exhaust pieces and the bottom of a GM TBI filter housing.
I totally agree. What are replacement options other than making your own? I'm still years away from a swap. I have 4 kids, with 2 in college, so money is tight for a few more years, but my goal is 2 Fiero swaps. One econo swap, like an ecotec, a daily driver. Then a loud, noisy, torque monster swap. I'm not very knowledgeable on these things, but I have replaced clutches and engines before. I am actually leaning towards the 4.9 as the swap of choice. It appears to be the easiest of the V8 swaps. I'm sure the LS swap is out of my league, and I'm guessing the N* one is also. Again though, I have always hated that intake on the 4.9 it is a big detractor from that engine. Great job so far Neil. I have saved your thread to favorites for future use.
Jim
I only have two kids (both in University)...but I feel your pain, lol. I think the 4.9 is a great swap to learn techniques and practice. You get a great torquey engine without the frustration and cost for some of the more exotic swaps. Not a track engine, but great for the street. This is my first, but I have several others planned.
Yes my plan is to design the intake from scratch. (I'll keep my ideas a surprise for now ) Thanks Fieroguru, some good links to some alternate setups. Still looking for something more unique...and Reallybig has put the pressure on me now, lol
I'm getting into some of the fiddly bits that take a bit of thinking. You sometimes have to look at the parts you have kicking around and then design the best option based on what you think you can do.
One issue is the location of the brake booster vacuum connection. It faces towards the trunk. I chose to cut the tube so that it points towards the little gap next to the distributor. I picked up a vacuum hose at the pick-n-pull. I don't remember what car, but it looked new, and I figured it would be good to have it on hand. It had a 90 degree bend and a small angle bend...fit perfectly from the throttle body around the distributor.
I cut a small straight section from the 2.5L brake booster vacuum tube. I used this to connect the two pieces of hoses together.
I had a hard time getting the rubber PCV connector back into the valve cover. Trick...if you are having a hard time putting them back into the hole, try heating them up with a heat gun (wear gloves). This softens the rubber up just enough that it will pop into the hole a little easier. You can also put a screwdriver into the throttle body vacuum connector and turn it to point at a more convenient angle. It points forward, but with the valve covers reversed you'll want it pointing to the back. I used a small section of the PCV connector tube and the existing rubber connectors to hook it up.
Time to work on the thermostat housing. If you keep the stock 4.9L thermostat housing, then you won't have a convenient way to add coolant. The cap on the radiator is too low to be useful for filling. First step, remove the 4.9L housing and thermostat.
Here are all the parts, 4.9L parts on the left, and the rest are 2.5L parts. My intention was to use the 2.5L thermostat, so I could easily remove it for filling.
I cut the top part of the 2.5L housing and merged it with the 4.9L housing. I set it at a slight angle to point closer to the stock hose.
I'll need to pick up a small section of hose and a connector. I ran the stock hose well away from the exhaust. The modified housing points right to the end of the hose, and will pass over the exhaust. Note that the new housing gets in the way of the stock air intake system....darn....guess I'll have to build my own
I made a small battery tray using some angle steel (1/8"). Note that the tray is larger than the ledge that it sits on...but it's well secured to the trunk deck. I could have cut the carpet away, but I'm happy keeping the carpet there. It's held in place using 4 screws, and the battery securing bolt. I used the stock securing bolt and threaded a hole in the angle steel.
Busy day today. Started by looking at the oil cooler delete. I had decided that I wanted to delete the cooler, but originally figured I'd keep the filter housing untouched so I could add a cooler later when I install the Murcielago body kit, since unlike the Fiero it has a great spot specifically for that. The first option was to take a regular cooler line and run it from the inlet to the outlet. Several issues with that...firstly, I couldn't find one at any wreckers (they all seemed to be cut). I didn't feel like paying about $50 to get a new one. Secondly, I took the cut remains of the one that I did have and found that it really wouldn't fit well due to its length and the bent solid tubes. The second option was to construct a small bypass loop myself. This was a better option since I could make a small bypass hose, which would be less likely to interfere with anything. The downside was that after pricing all the parts, it was also about $50. After weeks of looking and planning I finally gave up and moved on to option 3...internal filter housing bypass. Since I found several filter housings at the wreckers for just a few dollars, I figured this was the best option...it would be cheap to revert back to a regular filter when the time came.
Here's a breakdown of the steps I followed to modify the filter housing to bypass the cooler...(This is all based on the original thread posted by josef644)
Remove the oil filter housing. 15mm bolts. The bolt nearest the distributor just needs to be loosened, since it open at the side. The other bolt needs to be completely removed.
Be careful not to get any of that grit, grime, scunge and whatever else is on the outside of your engine into the oil passages. That's a potential bad day.
Be careful not to get any of that grit, grime, scunge and whatever else is on the outside of your engine into the oil passages. That's a potential bad day.
And why do you want to get rid of the oil cooler?
Grit in the oil would be bad. Always something I'm careful about.
The 4.9L engine was designed for a much heavier car which benefited from the cooler. There is no requirement for it in a Fiero. In addition, since there is no convenient place for it in the swap, I probably wouldn't get the full effect from it anyway...I'd just be adding another potential point of failure (leaks) within the system. With the body kit that I'm planning, there is a spot specifically for the oil cooler. Since I will hopefully also be adding a low boost turbo, there will more reason to add a cooler at that time. For now, I'll do without.
Had some issues today setting up the clutch. Although I had not opened the system, once bolted up, the pedal hit the floor with no backpressure and clutch lever didn't move. I could also grab the pushrod and push it back into the cylinder very easily. I figured that in the 8 months that the car has sat, air has somehow entered the system.... This was actually my second attempt at bleeding the clutch, the first attempt had failed and I left it for the time being. This time I tried both the single person gravity drain method and the two person method that I'm more accustomed to. No luck. I finally concluded that the slave cylinder pushrod was about 0.8" too short and I was actually reaching the end of it's travel....in addition to having air in the system. I'm guessing my clutch/flywheel combination was different enough from stock. I added a small stainless steel pushrod extension that fits over the end of the pushrod. After lots of bleeding, I was finally able to get about 1.1" of motion from the clutch lever. I'm hoping that is enough, though there may be a small amount of air left in the system.
I had the spring inside my clutch slave cyl wear through one loop, break into two springs, and slowly screw into each other resulting in a progressively shorter slave cyl return spring. This made the clutch pedal progressively closer to the floor in order to disengage the clutch until it just didn't work any more. Probably not your problem but took quite a while for me to figure out... food for thought
Two sides to the argument...I'm comfortable starting without the cooler and then seeing if I need it. FYI, I don't plan on taking the issue lightly, I will observe carefully. Since this is a contentious issue, I'll likely add an oil temp sensor and post the data.
My 4.9 keeps the temp high, around 210. (BTW is it to high ?)
Same for the oil even up to 10 degrees more.
No oil cooler and yes at those temp, oil pressure is pretty low with 10-30. Thinking about synthetic or 10-40.
I'll likely run synthetic.
When you did your bypass, did you use a hose to bypass or did you do an internal bypass? I've seen some people do the internal bypass just by removing the valve. I wonder if they are getting enough oil flow if they don't expand the passage?
My 4.9 keeps the temp high, around 210. (BTW is it to high ?)
From what I've read, normal temp is 192 to 196 at highway speeds plus or minus. In traffic you could get up to 235. Stop and go will range about 215 to 228 or more. 210 sounds good. ...those are Cadillac numbers, but if it is in the design range then that is good.
[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 06-03-2014).]
When you did your bypass, did you use a hose to bypass or did you do an internal bypass? I've seen some people do the internal bypass just by removing the valve. I wonder if they are getting enough oil flow if they don't expand the passage?
Managed to get a couple of the coolant hoses on. The return hose (passenger side) can use the stock 2.5L hose...just need to cut about 3" off. The stock supply hose on the drivers side may fit depending on your exhaust and the angle of the thermostat housing. Mine doesn't quite reach ...I'm keeping it well away from the exhaust.
Today I picked up a small piece of hose (6" from the pick-n-pull) and a connector to extend the length. I also picked up another hose which should do fine for the heater supply hose. I plan on just running the hose to the trunk wall, then turning 90 degrees and tapping into the existing rubber hose. I've seen a number of other ways to run the lines....some good ...some bad. I'm going to take the easy route for now, but revisit this at a later date.
Lastly, I picked up a hood shock. While the wooden stick I'm using to hold the trunk lid open is quite stylish time to put something more functional there.
The day wasn't too productive with respect to the car...got home from work and had to spend an hour or so fixing a blown line on the pool. Pump is also tripping the breaker now everytime it is turned on. I think the water from the blown line seems to have found it's way into the pump. sigh Got the line fixed...I'll work on the pump tomorrow.
Ok...back to the car....
After a little bit of measuring I found a good spot for the trunk lid shock. I decided to drill and tap a hole on the trunk lid hinge. Had to make sure there was no interference with the torsion rod.
The rear bracket fit nicely against an existing bracket on the trunk wall. Had to make sure it was low enough so the rod didn't interfere with the lid itself.
The shock is low enough that it doesn't get in the way for working on the engine. In conjunction with the single torsion bar, it offers enough support that you can raise the lid easily with one finger. Once you get about half way up the lid opens on it's own.
Lastly today, I connected the thermostat housing to the stock driver's side coolant hose with a small piece of hose and a male-to-male connector.
They let me walk around and root for parts...as long as I took them off they were cheap. (They would have charged me $20 to remove a little $2 connector 
...no thanks, I'll get that myself...) Couldn't find the tach connector, but I did find another HEI Battery connector, so I grabbed that. Have to modify it slightly...grind off the alignment tab, grind down the one edge slightly and then cut a small slot. The slot was the tough part since you have to cut under the locking tab. After cutting the tip of my thumb with the blade (....yes...I saw that coming 
) I switched to using a tiny slot screwdriver with the tip slightly sharpened...the plastic was soft enough to allow the screwdriver to be pushed straight down into the connector and gently cut out the slot. Fits perfectly.
The gauges all reset to their zero settings (a nice treat for a Fiero) and all the right dash lights came on. Still doesn't prove that everything is hooked up correctly, but it looks good so far! 
I left the one torsion bar that doesn't interfere. It's not strong enough to lift the hatch, but does take a lot of the weight. There is enough spring in it to allow the power hatch release to pop the hatch. I'll go to the pick n pull sometime and pick up a couple of hood shocks.
...can't wait to add some chrome tips to dress it up. 
...having said that, the exhaust gets relocated when I do the body kit, so should I even bother with the tips now? 
