How do I remove the front lower ball joint, from the control arm, on an 86? I have a ball joint removal tool, and I did this before on my 85. Either I don't have all the adapters or I am having a senior moment. Haynes manual is no help because it just states you have to replace the entire lower control arm. I have Rodney's ball joints, so I know the old one has to come out somehow.
Jim
Edit: And by ball joint removal tool I mean the C-clamp thing, not the pickle fork. I already have the ball joint separated from the knuckle. I just need it out of the control arm.
[This message has been edited by jimbolaya (edited 10-23-2013).]
Only the uppers have rivets holding them in place. The lower front ball joints are pressed in although some were tack welded from underneath from the factory. I have seen two 84's like that but I am not sure if later years were also tacked in as well. Also, if the ball joints have been replaced already in the past, there may be a snap ring on the top side of the a-arm which can be hard to see if there is a lot of grease near it.
After trying to pound out a pair of ball joints, I'm glad TopNotch loaned me his Rodney Dickman Ball joint remover. I accomplished the task in very short order. http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=27&products_id=176
After trying to pound out a pair of ball joints, I'm glad TopNotch loaned me his Rodney Dickman Ball joint remover. I accomplished the task in very short order. http://rodneydickman.com/ca...h=27&products_id=176
That tool seperates the ball joint from the spindle, it doesn't remove the ball joint from the a-arm. The OP has the proper tool, it looks like a big C clamp.
Ok, I was finally able to get the old joint out and the new one in. One more question, where does the snap ring go on Rodney's joints? If you put the snap ring on, then the boot does not snap on. I don't see a need for it. The boot has a metal ring in it also.
Jim
[This message has been edited by jimbolaya (edited 10-23-2013).]
That tool seperates the ball joint from the spindle, it doesn't remove the ball joint from the a-arm. The OP has the proper tool, it looks like a big C clamp.
My bad. You're right, but still the Dickman tool is well worth having in the tool box.
A BFH will get old ball joints out (assuming they're not tack welded). As for the snap ring......there should be a groove in the ball joint where it sits and it should not interfere with the boot at all (the groove is below the boot).
As for the snap ring......there should be a groove in the ball joint where it sits and it should not interfere with the boot at all (the groove is below the boot).
I installed Rodney's ball joints on my Formula and that's exactly what I found as well.
Just make sure the lower ball joints are pressed in all the way, as I discussed in This thread.
I used a shop press. A big piece of pipe under the control arm and a long socket over the ball joint stud. I used some PB Blaster to help break up whatever rust might be holding the two together, and they popped out in seconds. Reassembly, as they say, was the reverse of removal.
I have it all back together now. I left the snap ring in the groove, but the boot does not snap on like Rodney's site says it does. There's no where for it to snap onto once the snap ring is on. I used his little piece of PVC pipe, but it would not go on. The boot is just sitting there. I'm sure I missed something but I couldn't spend anymore time on it. Thanks guys.
Jimbo, I just pulled out my Dickman ball joints and there is only one groove on the lower front ball joint. That is for the snap ring. If the grease boot is placed on the ball joint and pressed down with your fingers or the PVC pipe, it gets held against the ridge by the knuckle, sufficient enough to make a good seal. If you got the castle nut tight, you're in good shape.
Jim, one word of caution. when I was "pounding" on the boot with the PVC I kept pushing the damn balljoint out of the control arm. In the end I had to tack-weld mine on. from what I recall the damn boot was a ***** to get on.
...the boot does not snap on like Rodney's site says it does. There's no where for it to snap onto once the snap ring is on.
Here's an image from Rodney's site that I used in my thread linked to below. You can see the shoulder that the rubber boot sits on just above the groove for the snap ring (between the boot and the upper ridge of the snap ring goove). Admittedly I had some difficulties installing the ball joints, but installing the boots was a relatively painless procedure. I put some lubrication around the base of the boot and was careful to press it on straight. It's just a friction fit, but the boot can't come off once the ball joint is connected to the knuckle.
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Originally posted by Patrick:
Just make sure the lower ball joints are pressed in all the way, as I discussed in This thread.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-23-2013).]
Jimbolaya, how did you finally get your ballpoints out? You said you did it but didn't explain your procedure. I'll Be attempting this (and cutting and welding bumpstops ) tomorrow . Thanks !!
