The nut needs to be tightened with a deep socket I will check which one it is,

Further to your tensioner question The nut you are missing is the same as the one on the threaded post beside it. It is a 14mm and fits inside the tensioner.
The gap you referred to, My snout is tight against the lower plenum with a vertical bolt to hold it down. I don't see a hole in the snout or plenum, what year is your engine?

it is a 2000. the bolt hole is there but the charger no longer fits flush with the lower intake manifold because the polisher remove so much material.after looking at pictures of the supercharger gasket I think it will still seal. so I'm going to run it like it is and see what happens.
thanks for checking things out for me.

Same year as mine.
I have a question: A number of installs have eliminated the vacuum by-pass control and also eliminated the top vacuum outlet using only the one vacuum outlet on the side of the throttle body.
Can this be done without having to modify the ECM?
What effect does it have on the motor?

Are you talking about deleting the EGR and BBV if so you need to have the ecm changed or at the very least you will have codes thrown. You could pm fieroflyer he built my harness and programed my ecm he would have the answer for you.

Made a little bit of progress with the swap engine mounted to cradle all accessories installed with belts just need to get the starter on.







had to do a little grinding to get the a/c bracket to fit


Also got some of my trunk cut out




That's all I have really been able to get done lately but its moving along.

Not much has changed but getting some little stuff done and out of the way. I think my next goal is to put the engine in so I can figure out my exhaust, coolant lines, trans coolant line, a/c lines and so on.
couple pics started putting on my harness and headers. Also got my rail from fierofreak00 looks great fits perfect.

I cut a chunk of my low alt bracket because it would not clear a plug then I realized I am an idiot and that plug is the stock 3.8 sending unit that I need to replace with an 88 sending unit. New unit installed.


I got my new fuel pump installed and was also able to get the sending unit reading 5-91 and I am happy with that. The trick was soaking the board with the wire in vinegar for 24 hours.

couple more things done.


got my a/c lines spliced today


engine is mounted in the car

Great thread. Guys, if you know whats up with his questions please reply. I'm really impressed with what he's done so far. But not a lot of help.

quote Originally posted by Jason88Notchie: Great thread. Guys, if you know whats up with his questions please reply. I'm really impressed with what he's done so far. But not a lot of help.

Thanks for the kind words man but I will admit as far as 3800 build threads go this is a fairly boring one.

I was able to make the headers fit buy removing the heat shield and lowering the car all the way onto the cradle then reinstalling the heat shield. There will be some very tight clearances with the headers and wires, shift cable and other stuff.
My goal for the weekend is to install the a/c lines mount the computer and coil pack and run the cables for the front mount battery. About 5 min after I start working on the car one of my kids need something or wants to play and nothing gets done but thats the joys of parenthood. My advice to guys who like having time for projects dont have 4 kids stop at 1 or 2

^

Is this an ok place for the negative battery cable?


second do I still torque my axle nuts to 200# or is it different with the modified axles and different trans?

quote Originally posted by crashmydaytona: Is this an ok place for the negative battery cable? second do I still torque my axle nuts to 200# or is it different with the modified axles and different trans?

Looks like a good place to ground. I was always told though that you want a negative straight from the battery as well.
I'd still torque the axles to 200 ft/lbs. The hub and what not is still the same, and I don't think you'll break an axle while doing it. But someone who actually knows should chime in.

I ordered some parts from west coast fiero to help speed things along while i am stuck working long hours.

I bought a modified thermostat and was told I need to plug the lower intake manifold and tap the water pump hole for the heater line is this correct? I have already done the opposite and want to make sure this is correct before I change it.

I blocked off the two outlets using frost plugs. my car is an 88 and the heater return connects into the rad return with a "y" fitting so I did not need a direct connection.. I made a new extension at the 3800 thermostat and tapped the heater supply at that point. On older models connecting as you have dons is perfectly ok.
I can send pictures if you are interested. I also modified the 2.8 thermostat to fit the 3800. It has everything you need, heater outlet, rad outlet, thermostat and high point fill. i discovered that it does not fit my engine because of the vacuum actuator for the compressor by-pass. if you are not using the by-pass it's for sale for the 90.00 it cost me to have it cut and welded. By the way, Just started the engine for the first time to-nite VOOHOO

quote Originally posted by DeckGod: I blocked off the two outlets using frost plugs. my car is an 88 and the heater return connects into the rad return with a "y" fitting so I did not need a direct connection.. I made a new extension at the 3800 thermostat and tapped the heater supply at that point. On older models connecting as you have dons is perfectly ok. I can send pictures if you are interested. I also modified the 2.8 thermostat to fit the 3800. It has everything you need, heater outlet, rad outlet, thermostat and high point fill. i discovered that it does not fit my engine because of the vacuum actuator for the compressor by-pass. if you are not using the by-pass it's for sale for the 90.00 it cost me to have it cut and welded. By the way, Just started the engine for the first time to-nite VOOHOO

First start up thats awesome. How did it go?

Danny's harness worked great!! Motor fired up on the first touch of the starter. Surprised the hell out of me.
I've got to finish routing the intake, install the rotors and calipers fender liners and wheels. Hope to test drive by the end of next week
Still haven't figured out how to add pictures

Have you tried PIP yet? You can also use photobucket or similar to post pics. I would love to see pics of your setup or a video since you have it running but I don't have a clue how to do that.

quote Originally posted by bomluuk: Looks like a good place to ground. I was always told though that you want a negative straight from the battery as well. I'd still torque the axles to 200 ft/lbs. The hub and what not is still the same, and I don't think you'll break an axle while doing it. But someone who actually knows should chime in.

There are two wires in the harness that run from the engine ground to the body harness. If the battery is wired to the frame, and the frame to engine strap is weak or missing the two wires in the harness become your negative battery cable. When you go to crank the engine those two wires in your new engine harness and the wires those two wires connect to in the body harness will become red hot, burning up their insulation, and then melting through the other wires in the bundle to short out others.

-------

quote Originally posted by crashmydaytona: I would love to see ... ... a video since you have it running but I don't have a clue how to do that.

Post the video on Youtube and link to it using the syntax [youtube]http://youtube.com/youtube page of the video ONLY[/youtube]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQlM59sDJVo

becomes

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-13-2014).]

"There are two wires in the harness that run from the engine ground to the body harness. If the battery is wired to the frame, and the frame to engine strap is weak or missing the two wires in the harness become your negative battery cable. When you go to crank the engine those two wires in your new engine harness and the wires those two wires connect to in the body harness will become red hot, burning up their insulation, and then melting through the other wires in the bundle to short out others."

This sounds scary. So I should not connect the negative cable to the frame but run it all the way to where? The block or starter maybe? Should I leave the one on the frame as well?

Thanks for the how to on videos.

If it were mine I would have a continuous wire from the battery to the block.

It's not unusual for me to get a donor Fiero harness that has the insulation burnt off of those ground wires in the stock harness.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-13-2014).]

Its been a while since I have done anything to my fiero but finally got a couple spare hours to work on it. Ran a negative cable from the battery up to the block , installed my auto shifter, auto brake pedal, got the shift lock cable working on my manual column, transmission coolant lines installed, coolant and heater hoses installed, spark plug wires installed and probably a few other small things.

i need the clips that hold an auto shift cable in place both ends. Are these available at the parts store still?
have know idea how the vac lines need to go will search for that latter
Transmission dipstick leaked while trying to add fluid hopefully just an oring

all and all got allot done and am getting really close. starting to get a little excited! Won't be long now.

Is there more than one adjustment for the e-brakes? My passenger side locks up solid but the drivers side spins freely.

I think i might get this beast running today but wont be able to drive it.

The E-brake is the Achilles Heel of this system. I was able to get mine working by removing the spring from the offending brake and moving the lever back and forth to get it to adjust itself. Also double check and snug up the tension between the two sides. Good luck with your start up I'm on my 4th tank of fuel motor runs great!. only complaint is I used a stage 3 clutch from Grip Force and it is way too aggressive. Either it's engaged or off and chatters violently if you try to ride it. It is getting better but I don't know if it is the clutch or if I'm just getting better at controlling it. If I launch revving at 3000 rpm+ the clutch works great. Just trying to pull away from an intersection without attracting every cop within a quarter mile is the problem. Still thinking I will change it this winter.

quote Originally posted by DeckGod: The E-brake is the Achilles Heel of this system. I was able to get mine working by removing the spring from the offending brake and moving the lever back and forth to get it to adjust itself. Also double check and snug up the tension between the two sides. Good luck with your start up I'm on my 4th tank of fuel motor runs great!. only complaint is I used a stage 3 clutch from Grip Force and it is way too aggressive. Either it's engaged or off and chatters violently if you try to ride it. It is getting better but I don't know if it is the clutch or if I'm just getting better at controlling it. If I launch revving at 3000 rpm+ the clutch works great. Just trying to pull away from an intersection without attracting every cop within a quarter mile is the problem. Still thinking I will change it this winter.

Sounds like fun for the track not so much if its mostly a daily driver.
I will pull the spring off and see if it will self adjust for me

I dont know if i will get it running today or not keep running in to setbacks. I have one mystery plug i can not find a home for its a two wire i think white and black near the throttle body.

Glad your car is running good. i am going with an auto so i can hold my coffee on my way to work

I replaced the "o" rings on each of the injectors and lubed them with a little Vaseline. I did have a seeping leak on the return line fitting, fixed that and found another leak at the elbow of the breather line to the fuel fill tube. Nothing but fun. bought a replacement from Fiero Store. Just got the fitting and my drivers headlight started to lift erratically.
Again back to Fiero Store. I thing I should be on a weekly delivery schedule.

I replaced all the O-rings on the injectors last night had a nice cut in the one that was leaking I did not use any lube last time. Used a little bit of grease this time problem solved. Now I need to diagnose the starter I have 12v to the starter. I am going to get my wife to turn the key for me tonight hopefully to see if its getting power from the ignition. I am guessing its not and will have to figure out why. I am hopeful for getting it started this weekend.

Anyone know how far you can drive with out an alignment I need to go about 15 miles. I have nice tires and don't wont to ruin them.

I was lucky and all the electrical worked first time.
The wheel alignment, unless it is way off and you can see the missaignment, shouldn't damage the tires. Just keep it under 100.

First, compared to mine, it is not needy. Compared to yours, mine is ghetto and mutant. Not due to ability, but rather funds.
With the car down on the wheels, use a straight edge (ruler,level )on the front and rear of each rear tire aiming to the outside of the front tires. If you can noticablely see that it is not tracking straight it will eat tires pretty fast. You should be able to adjust the rear tie rods to get it to track straight enough to get it to the shop.
When you use a remote battery, it is important to also run a negative cable to the engine from the battery. Due to the amps you pull for the starter. It will quickly fry small ground straps and have seen on occasion, the current end up going through the shift cable(depending on type of cable), screwing it up also. The ground you have to the frame is OK for the rest of the car, but not the starter.

quote Originally posted by cmechmann: First, compared to mine, it is not needy. Compared to yours, mine is ghetto and mutant. Not due to ability, but rather funds. With the car down on the wheels, use a straight edge (ruler,level )on the front and rear of each rear tire aiming to the outside of the front tires. If you can noticablely see that it is not tracking straight it will eat tires pretty fast. You should be able to adjust the rear tie rods to get it to track straight enough to get it to the shop. When you use a remote battery, it is important to also run a negative cable to the engine from the battery. Due to the amps you pull for the starter. It will quickly fry small ground straps and have seen on occasion, the current end up going through the shift cable(depending on type of cable), screwing it up also. The ground you have to the frame is OK for the rest of the car, but not the starter.

Thanks for the advice I did end up runing a ground from the battery straight to the block as advised by others. I will play with the alignment and see how close i can get it.

I was thinking about my starter last night and why it was not working and remembered that I converted from a manual to an automatic. I am guessing I need to find the plug that was for the clutch safety switch that stops you from starting the car in gear and I think just splice the wires together. Not 100 % sure that's what needs to be done but I think I read it somewhere on the forum before. I will give it a shot tonight if I have time.