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2.5 cylinder head torque specs by krum
Started on: 01-19-2014 01:01 AM
Replies: 28 (5606 views)
Last post by: White84SE on 05-06-2016 11:40 PM
krum
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Report this Post01-19-2014 01:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
im doing a head gasket and i need to know the torque specs for a 2.5 motor
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Bloozberry
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Report this Post01-19-2014 08:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
According to the '86 FSM:

1. Torque all bolts gradually to 18 lbft in sequence shown in Fig 11;
2. Repeat sequence bringing torque to 22 lbft on all bolts except #9. Torque #9 to 29 lbft;
3. Repeat sequence turning all bolts 120 degrees (two flats) except for #9 turn 90 degrees (1/4 turn).

If you don't have the torque sequence figure 11, I can scan it and post it for you. Just let me know.
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krum
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Report this Post01-19-2014 10:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
no i dont have the sequence.and that is for a 84 2.5 ? thanks you so much
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theogre
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Report this Post01-19-2014 11:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
use as posted above

Use NEW bolts!
Old bolts are weak from factory.

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post01-19-2014 12:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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krum
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Report this Post01-19-2014 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
what should i use for a sealant on the bolts i dont want this thing to leak
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David Hambleton
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Report this Post01-19-2014 08:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Note number 1 in the upper left of the diagram specifies the GM sealant.
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krum
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Report this Post01-19-2014 08:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
do i have to use sealant on all the bolts?

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-19-2014).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post01-19-2014 10:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Use any of the silicone based sealers that come in a toothpaste tube like Permatex. I'd probably use the copper-colored one for this area. You only need to apply it to bolts 9 & 10 according to the diagram.
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krum
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Report this Post01-20-2014 01:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bloozberry on the push rods how do i properly install/adjust them i read that you can not adjust the valve lash do you have the info on this as well i really want to thank you for the help

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-20-2014).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-20-2014 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's correct. There is no valve lash adjustment. You just torque the rocker bolts to spec. However, you need to make sure there is no tension on each bolt when you tighten it, or you'll get a false torque reading. So for each bolt, you have to turn the engine until the corresponding lifter drops down to its lowest point before torquing it.

According to the Haynes manual, the torque spec for those bolts is 20 ft-lb for '84 and '85, or 24 ft-lb for '86-'88.
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Report this Post01-20-2014 05:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make sure you Use NEW BOLTS .if you don't a few months down the road you will be replacing that head gasket Again
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krum
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Report this Post01-20-2014 06:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
so just watch for the push rods for that cylinder to go all the way down and torque the bolt correct?
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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-20-2014 06:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
yep
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krum
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Report this Post01-21-2014 12:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
According to the '86 FSM:

1. Torque all bolts gradually to 18 lbft in sequence shown in Fig 11;
2. Repeat sequence bringing torque to 22 lbft on all bolts except #9. Torque #9 to 29 lbft;
3. Repeat sequence turning all bolts 120 degrees (two flats) except for #9 turn 90 degrees (1/4 turn).

on step 3 what does (two flats) mean, and on step 3 do i still use the torque wrench?

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-21-2014).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-21-2014 01:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The two flats comment refers to the flat sides of the bolt head. The bolt head is a hexagon, so the sides are 60 degrees apart. Two sides is 120 degrees. And if your socket has a hexagon top, you can use that as a frame of reference as well.

You don't necessarily need to use a torque wrench for the final step. You're not going to be torquing the bolts to any particular torque setting, anyway. You're just going to turn them a certain distance (either 90 degrees or 120 degrees, depending on the bolt).
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krum
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Report this Post01-21-2014 02:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
ok so the 90 and 120 ill just use a 1/2 ratchet i thought that the last step i would lose the torque settings if i used the ratchet but if i used the torque wrench i wouldnt be tighting the bolt anymore so i didnt know what to use on the final step so the ratchet will be fine? i just dont wanna over tighten the head bolts with the ratchet

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-21-2014).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-21-2014 02:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You might want to use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet wrench.
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krum
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Report this Post01-21-2014 03:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
im so confused i found a manual online it a chilton 84 to 88 it says for the 84 2.5l does 92 ft. lbs. seem right
Torque in three steps in sequence using thread sealer
a. 1 st step: 31 ft. Ibs.
b. 2nd step: 62 ft. Ibs.
c. 3rd step: 92 ft. Ibs.
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krum
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Report this Post01-21-2014 03:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

krum

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Member since Dec 2013
http://www.autozone.com/aut..._/P-0900c152801da887

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-21-2014).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-21-2014 03:33 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Basically, the Chilton manual has out-of-date information. You should use the torque spec posted previously.
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krum
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Report this Post01-21-2014 03:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for krumSend a Private Message to krumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
there is the link just scroll down you will see it
http://www.autozone.com/aut..._/P-0900c152801da887

[This message has been edited by krum (edited 01-21-2014).]

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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post05-05-2016 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Using any type of thread Sealant would Worry me, Those are "Dead End Holes" you cannot compress any kind of sealant !
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theogre
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Report this Post05-05-2016 05:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Bloozberry:
Use any of the silicone based sealers that come in a toothpaste tube like Permatex. I'd probably use the copper-colored one for this area. You only need to apply it to bolts 9 & 10 according to the diagram.
Yes, sealant only on bolt/holes that are wet after install w/ oil/coolant.

GM 105 2080 = Permatex® High Temperature Thread Sealant per http://www.itwpf.com.au/per...pdfs/approvals/7.pdf

"turn to X°" above are "new" specs and used on all older engines. This step does not need a torque wrench.

While these specs look like Torque To Yield to many, Bolts aren't.
Use New bolts because Many OE bolts are made weak and 30+ years doesn't help. Big problem for 84-86 dukes. Beside that, Bolts 1 and 2 get allot of heat stress because of exhaust port setup.
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Report this Post05-05-2016 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: I'm a thread necromancer!


Uhh, yeah...
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Lou6t4gto
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Report this Post05-05-2016 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Lou6t4gtoSend a Private Message to Lou6t4gtoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
WHY would you put Sealant on the threads in a "DEAD End bolt Hole ??? There's no coolant to creep up the threads. ( It's not like other GM engines where the bolt holes are tapped into a water jacket .) What is their "reasoning" for recommending this?
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Report this Post05-06-2016 06:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for E.FurgalSend a Private Message to E.FurgalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
29 ft lb seems mighty low.. for head bolts

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White84SE
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Report this Post05-06-2016 11:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for White84SEClick Here to visit White84SE's HomePageSend a Private Message to White84SEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by E.Furgal:

29 ft lb seems mighty low.. for head bolts


Yeah, I torqued my 84 to 92LB or something.

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White84SE
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Report this Post05-06-2016 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for White84SEClick Here to visit White84SE's HomePageSend a Private Message to White84SEEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

White84SE

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Actually, first they were torqued to whatever the Haynes manual said in the main write up. It was smoking white pretty bad then I noticed the specs for the 84 was different than the other years. New bolts and 92 lbs did the trick.

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