Need some help on how to re-install the stock front springs on my 84. I have tried a couple of spring compressors, but cannot get the spring on with the compressors on the spring and I don't seem to have quite enough arm strength to push the spring up over the bottom hump. What's the secret?
[This message has been edited by animal (edited 02-07-2014).]
I assume that you're attempting to install the springs while there is a floor jack under the lower control arm? Lower the control arm far enough that you can just get the spring over the perch. You may also try a pry bar, but BE CAREFUL. Those springs will pop out with a lot of force. To be on the cautious side you may want to loop a chain or wire cable through the spring and bolt to someone substantial on the frame. You shouldn't need a compressor to install. The factory service manual doesn't not reference the use of a compressor to install front springs. Good luck.
First of all, it's a heck of a lot easier putting lowering springs in, or the stock springs back in with a coil or two removed.
However...
Obviously make sure the lower control arm is hanging down as far as it will go... shock disconnected, sway bar/end links disconnected, knuckle disconnected, upper control arm/knuckle out of the way. Step on the end of the lower control arm and force it down. Make sure the car is high enough so that the ground doesn't get in the way of the control arm pivoting down.
Slide the spring up over the cone at the top, and while sitting on your ass on the ground facing the whole mess, kick the hell out of the lower part of the spring until you force it over the hump in the lower control arm and it sprongs into place.
It helps greatly to yell obscenities while you're doing it.
quote
Originally posted by gtoformula:
To be on the cautious side you may want to loop a chain or wire cable through the spring and bolt to someone substantial on the frame.
If nothing else, the chain would help to hold the spring in place while you're kicking the hell out of it to push it in.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-08-2014).]
This sounds like a plan. Apparently I don't have enough arm strength to get the spring on the lower perch but maybe I can do it with my legs and a lot of vocals.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
Slide the spring up over the cone at the top, and while sitting on your ass on the ground facing the whole mess, kick the hell out of the lower part of the spring until you force it over the hump in the lower control arm and it sprongs into place.
It helps greatly to yell obscenities while you're doing it.
When I did it I was pushing the lower control arm down as far as I could with one foot and then using a pry bar on the spring to get the bottom coil over the hump.
When I did mine, I put the spring compressor on them and then tied them down with cargo straps and then removed the compressors. This left them smaller and easier to get in but without the bulk on the compressors to get in the way. Mine were lowering springs, so as Patrick said they're easier, but any compression you can get on them is going to make the job easier.
I like the cargo strap idea- all it takes is compressing it a little bit and it will go ineasier. Not sure if it will wreck the strap though when you have to remove it....
I cut a coil off of mine and modified the bump stop steel by shortening it 3/4" inch and that helps the spring go in easier too. I know it is the wrong way to lower the car but it works very well ln this low dollar application.
I have also lowerd the a arm most of the way down with a floor jack under it so it cant go all the way down - then sit on the floor (not a wheeled chair) and using your foot and a prybar and some foul language wrestle with it a bit until it goes in. It is a pain but can be done.
GM dealers probably had a special tool??/
------------------ 84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph
I cut a coil off of mine and modified the bump stop steel by shortening it 3/4" inch and that helps the spring go in easier too. I know it is the wrong way to lower the car...
Why is cutting the front springs the "wrong" way to do it? It works perfectly well, as it lowers the car while stiffening the spring. It's what you want!
quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:
...then sit on the floor (not a wheeled chair) and using your foot and a prybar and some foul language wrestle with it a bit until it goes in.
Sounds an awful lot like what I posted.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
...while sitting on your ass on the ground facing the whole mess, kick the hell out of the lower part of the spring until you force it over the hump in the lower control arm and it sprongs into place.
It helps greatly to yell obscenities while you're doing it.
Originally posted by Patrick: Why is cutting the front springs the "wrong" way to do it? It works perfectly well, as it lowers the car while stiffening the spring. It's what you want!
Exactly. As long as one doesn't get carried away and leave it riding on the bump stops. Mine is running cut springs at all four corners now. It handles and rides better than it ever has. You just have to have some sense about it.
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 Praise the Lowered!
Thanks Patrick and gtoformula. I had the same question practically the same day. Got the spring compressor only to see it doesn't fit. Laid on the floor and used choice words to kick the spring into submission. Thank the Lord - one side is done.
...while sitting on your ass on the ground facing the whole mess, kick the hell out of the lower part of the spring until you force it over the hump in the lower control arm and it sprongs into place.
It helps greatly to yell obscenities while you're doing it.
[/QUOTE]
I guess we think alike. There has to be a better way of doing it though - it is a battle until you cut the springs. PS someone with a P.H.D in spring engineering will tell you why it is wrong. I will tell you it works fine. cheers.
Mine's a stock 88 but I also used straps to keep the springs compressed after using a rented compressor tool. I actually used three straps on each spring for fear of them snapping. Then after putting them in it was just a matter of jacking the lower control arm up and putting the spring under load and wrestling the straps back off.
Thought I would add an update and some pictures for those who search this topic in the future. I was skeptical, but tried the method proposed by Firebird a couple of posts above. It uses Green Vinyl covered wire to tie up the springs. It did work, but on the second spring, I thought I would try something slightly different.
The spring needs to be "curved" to easily fit. Tying up both sides of the spring compresses it straight, so I thought, why not just tie up one side. I placed the spring face down on the edge that would normally face the spindle, and then placed the two Strut Compressors 120 degrees apart ( think 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock). Compressed the spring and tied off.
The spring compresses to about 10.5", but when the compressors are removed, it will relax to about 11.5" ( on the short side). I was easily able to shove the spring in with just a push of my hand at this dimension.
Having the spring "Curved" helped a lot. Trying to do this with a Straight spring would require a much shorter compression on both sides.
When I did mine, I put the spring compressor on them and then tied them down with cargo straps and then removed the compressors. This left them smaller and easier to get in but without the bulk on the compressors to get in the way. Mine were lowering springs, so as Patrick said they're easier, but any compression you can get on them is going to make the job easier.
Great idea !!!
------------------ Founder / President Long Island's Little Fiero Owners Club L.I.L.F.O.C. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT 3800sc series 2 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12, VIN #5835, Stock PRV engine, Peugot 604 Intake manifold, Exhaust headers, Anti-3rd brake light
Very short: Loosen LCA pivot bolts may or may not be required... Moog and other rubber and polly is not. OE rubber maybe. (All rubber will be easier to rotate LCA by loosening.) Pop LBJ Carefully let LCA to move down to Release most spring force. Use a floor jack set so can move in/out as LBJ end of LCA is lowered. Carefully pull spring off LCA. Spring does have some pressure so don't put you in path of spring if springs or falls out of upper mount.
carefully bend new OE spring on the LCA then jack up the LBJ to attach LBJ. Might need to block LCA close to vertical so can't move while bending the spring. I think I simple pulled on middle w/ hand and push w/ a foot at the bottom. (I did this in my driveway to restore bushings 10+ years ago.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I used a spring compressor to get the springs short enough, then installed some of those spring clamp/extenders that I had laying around- But it still was a bit of a chore- The straps look like they would work- but watch out for the straps deciding to suddenly get friendly with each other- They may slide together!
Patrick- Not foul language! It's FRENCH....Geeeeezzz....
Awesome ! Thanks guys ! Maybe I can go return the loaner McPherson spring compressors to auto zone. The oem springs came out with the crowbar easy enough.
Putting those springs back in is something that's relatively easy after being guided through the first experience.
