I've tried epoxy, a propane torch and a sodering iron, I can't get this thing to seal back up for more than a day for the life of me I'm waiting on money to replace it but I still have to drive it any ideas?
I will search for a used one, I wonder if any of the Chicago area/NWI forum members have any parts cars, I live two blocks from the pick pull but I already scavenged what I needed at the time from them and they are gone. Finding a reliable source for used parts is hard :/
To be clear about this Im talking about the plastic side tank on the radiator, not the coolant overflow bottle. The radiator itself is cracked.
I would suggest a new radiator at that point. You might get lucky and swap a new piece in, but that is a gamble and since the radiator is important to keep the engine from overheating.... I say just bite the bullet and replace it before something worse happens.
Super glue and baking soda. Make a line of super glue along the crack. Right over the top of it. Don't be shy. Go length wise along the crack. Then quickly spread baking soda over the crack. Again don't be shy. Let sit for a few minutes. Gently blow off the excess baking soda. And walla. Chemical reaction, plastic cement.
I did this 4 years ago on my 86's overflow. Hasn't leaked a drop since. I actually read about this trick here on PFF if I remember correctly. Try it! Works.
Don't try an edge-to-edge glue job. It's a pressurized high temp system, and a plastic that is very reluctant to bond.
If you can see the entire crack, my solution is to roughen the plastic slightly, apply Gorilla Glue, then cover with two or three thicknesses of fiber-reinforced tape - pulled hard ACROSS the crack. Once the glue dries, you are either good to go or back where you started - waiting for $$ to buy a radiator. Gorilla Tape (it's like Duct Tape on steroids) might also work.
The first time I've glued-taped a radiator was in the middle of Nevada's nowhere. I did it in the evening, we camped overnight, and in the morning it was fine and lasted all the way back to Orange County. I've advised others a few times, with reports of good results.
I keep a roll of fiberglass-reinforced 1" tape in every car for temp fixes (hoses, exhaust hangup, holding things together). One day I lost an accessory drive belt, so put one together from that tape. Lasted for a full day of driving.
[This message has been edited by notaguru (edited 04-25-2014).]
Start engine up and let the fluid get to running temp. Than add a tea spoon of black pepper and a tea spoon of red chile powder into the radiator. Keep engine running and you'll see as the leak plugs up. Worked so good on for me once that I just left it at that.
Start engine up and let the fluid get to running temp. Than add a tea spoon of black pepper and a tea spoon of red chile powder into the radiator. Keep engine running and you'll see as the leak plugs up. Worked so good on for me once that I just left it at that.
Gluing Overflow tank in nothing. For 1, That tank does not see pressure.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
What epoxy do you use? They make an epoxies specifically for plastic. You might try one of those. Also change the radiator cap to a lower pressure. Most caps are 15 PSI. I know you can get 7 PSI caps. You might even get a lower pressure. In the old days we use to leave the radiator cap just on so pressure would not build up to slow down the leak. I don't think you can do that on a Fiero because the fill point is higher than the radiator cap. Good Luck.
------------------ 88 GT 5 Speed Black with gray interior 3800 SCII Swap. Paint in Progress
IT RUNS!! IT'S QUICK!!
"Real integrity is doing the right thing, knowing that nobody's going to know whether you did it or not."
I've tried epoxy, a propane torch and a sodering iron, I can't get this thing to seal back up...
I remember years ago I wasted a whole lotta time trying to solder a leak in the rad of an old '67 Chev. I kept on trying to repair it, and it kept on leaking. Kept on trying, kept on leaking. Rinse and repeat... rinse and repeat. I finally grabbed the biggest screwdriver I had and punched it right through the middle of the rad. Gawd, did I feel good after that!
Om other cars, I've left the cap loose so that the system wouldn't pressurize & force the fluid out a small leak. You can't do that on the radiator, but you might get by with it on the cap over the thermostat. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I used to buy K&B block seal and throw it in the system drive it til leak stops drain it and let it sit over night best stuff I ever used. Also in the past I have used fiberglass repair kits on them...scuff it up and pour the resin on...or you can turn radiator sideways and pour it in and coat it on the inside that way when it pressurizes its pushing against the resin... and have done the super glue thingy but never heard of the baking soda before. You could do the pepper thing... but if it was me I would buy a can of the block seal that you leave in and if any leaks start its in there to stop it.. just my 2 cents worth... goodluck!
You need a new radiator. NOTHING is going to fix this, not even temporarily. You might be able to have new tanks put on your old core, but it will cost more than a replacement. A blow out in traffic and a tow home will cost you more than replacing it now.
