Ok guys I have a few questions on which direction I should take and how to integrate components.
I purchased a 87 GT about 2 months ago. The car only has 34k miles on it but has the beginning on an LT1 install started. Original 2.8 engine was removed and the frame rails were notched (both sides) for the LT1. When I bought the car the LT1 was already in the car (with reversed intake), custom axles and the bell housing adapter. Also included in the sale was a heavy duty starter, oil filter relocation kit, 4 core radiator, fiberglass battery mount box with cables, new clutch assembly & original V6 (harness intact). Upon further investigation I noticed the V8 engine was completely rebuilt with .03 pistons, crank was ground .01, 1.6 chevy roller rockers, MSD 8mm wires, block was boiled with new paint and the timing gear for the water pump has been removed.
How do I interface the following the...... - Radiator fans? (is this controlled via the V8 ecu) - Gauge cluster? (oil,temp,volts) - AC control? (have original compressor from 2.8) - Cruise control - Coolant hose routing (almost need to see an LT1 car) I really dont want to cut up the 2.8 harness if I dont have to, but do I need the connector that attaches to the passenger side in the engine compartment items listed above?
[This message has been edited by RISK81 (edited 03-01-2015).]
Sounds like you have a good start on a nice engine swap. Believe me, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a nice L99 swap. If it was me, I'd figure out where I was (looks like you pretty much know that now) and finish. It would be a MUCH better investment than putting the 2.8 back in.
If it's an L99, then you don't need a water pump from an LT1. So no need to reference an LT1 from this point. Use the same water pump that other sbc owners are using on their V8s. The same goes for any other component of your sbc swap--don't worry about "LT1"
Oops, I was wrong about the L99. I guess is it like the LT1. Well, you can use an LT1 water pump.
I use a remote electric water pump because the stock LT1 waterpump wouldn't keep the car cool in stop and go traffic.
[This message has been edited by cyrus88 (edited 08-11-2014).]
Would of loved to help but mine is carbed , no AC. i have an electric water pump and an alumium radiator. The electric fan is on the same principal as stock.. uses a temp sensor that goes ground after 185 deg turning on the fan which is from a ford taurus.
94/95 LT1/L99 PCM is flashable using TunerPro to program the .bin file and WinFlash from CATs to upload the bin file to the PCM. You will also need an ALDL cable with the correct number of pins. 94 F bodies used a 12 pin connector. 95 F Bodies use a 16 pin connector. Not sure what the Buick will have had in it. If you are wiring it up you can use either.
TunerPro RT is free but has a 10 second 'nag' screen at start up. You can avoid the nag screen by purchasing a license however that is never required. WinFlash from CATs runs 30 days for free. After that the license is $19.50 (I think) You can purchase the OBD1 ALDL cable from me at http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html
Fan is ran off of the PCM Oil pressure runs off of the oil pressure sender TEMP light will be controlled by the PCM Temp gauge is ran off of a temp gauge sender. Volts is just vehicle volts - no sender needed Charge light needs to be wired to the alternator Cruise - Use the AR digital cruise control module along with the stock Fiero stalk You can purchase used C500s so you don't have to cut up your existing harness
I do make swap harnesses if you are interested in having someone else do the work - http://reddevilriver.com
Phonedawgz, that is exactly what I was looking for! Thank You.
Any recommendation for locations in regards to the L99 tune?
The AR cruise module, was it ever used on other GM vehicles or is this a new module?
Also any one know where to get the LT1 water pump relocation adapters that bolt to the block with hose fittings to allow for relocating the water pump?. (I believe they need to be LT1 specific)
Someone out there looking to sell a C500 harness?
Thanks again
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:
94/95 LT1/L99 PCM is flashable using TunerPro to program the .bin file and WinFlash from CATs to upload the bin file to the PCM. You will also need an ALDL cable with the correct number of pins. 94 F bodies used a 12 pin connector. 95 F Bodies use a 16 pin connector. Not sure what the Buick will have had in it. If you are wiring it up you can use either.
TunerPro RT is free but has a 10 second 'nag' screen at start up. You can avoid the nag screen by purchasing a license however that is never required. WinFlash from CATs runs 30 days for free. After that the license is $19.50 (I think) You can purchase the OBD1 ALDL cable from me at http://reddevilriver.com/aldl.html
Fan is ran off of the PCM Oil pressure runs off of the oil pressure sender TEMP light will be controlled by the PCM Temp gauge is ran off of a temp gauge sender. Volts is just vehicle volts - no sender needed Charge light needs to be wired to the alternator Cruise - Use the AR digital cruise control module along with the stock Fiero stalk You can purchase used C500s so you don't have to cut up your existing harness
I do make swap harnesses if you are interested in having someone else do the work - http://reddevilriver.com
Modify your links to begin with "http" instead of "https"
I think the problem is that they are hosted on Google+, and the way it works doesn't support external embedding, as the URL returns a bunch of HTML/JavaScript/CSS, and not just an image.
I think the problem is that they are hosted on Google+, and the way it works doesn't support external embedding, as the URL returns a bunch of HTML/JavaScript/CSS, and not just an image.
I glanced at it and thought it was Picasa (for which my suggestion would have worked), but it's Drive instead. He may not have made the files available to the public.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 08-12-2014).]
Also any one know where to get the LT1 water pump relocation adapters that bolt to the block with hose fittings to allow for relocating the water pump?. (I believe they need to be LT1 specific)
I made my own, with a band saw, drill and tap from 3/8" aluminum. I got the aluminum from a a local metal recycler/supplier for much cheaper than buying it online.
I made my own, with a band saw, drill and tap from 3/8" aluminum. I got the aluminum from a a local metal recycler/supplier for much cheaper than buying it online.
cyrus88, What remote water pump did you end up using? What about a T-stat housing?