Where can the bleeder assembly for the HTOB be purchased?
I scored a tranny but all that is there is the HTOB nothing else.
Looks like there are 2 more pieces to get, from the bearing to out of the case and the bleeder T assembly.
Need to find those pieces.

I think witch doctors still do bleeding
What the hell do you mean by HTOB
Not a government worker so type out what you mean

Hydraulic throw out bearing. Newer transmissions such as the F23 don't use mechanical throw outs like the older transmissions in Fieros.
Good info here:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/087296.html

[This message has been edited by Bridgetown (edited 10-02-2014).]

The Y shaped bleeder is available new from the dealership (part no. 12582665) but it comes as an assembly with extra parts including a hose and what I believe is the mount for the clutch master cylinder. It's not cheap at $114 but then everything is more expensive in Canada so you're probably looking at $80 in the States. An alternative is to bypass the bleeder assembly entirely using WCF's adapter. It clicks into place just like the GM part, but it's just a simple elbow fitting with the correct threads for the Fiero clutch line at the other end. Once again not cheap: $US 125.00 + shipping (you have to call since it's not listed separately on their website).

As for the part that goes between the HTOB and the bleeder assembly, I can't help you.

quote Originally posted by mcguiver3: Where can the bleeder assembly for the HTOB be purchased? I scored a tranny but all that is there is the HTOB nothing else. Looks like there are 2 more pieces to get, from the bearing to out of the case and the bleeder T assembly. Need to find those pieces.

As Blooze said, the bleeder assy isn't sold separately, just as part of the whole Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly - from a F40, F35 or or F23 application. There was an application where everything cost about $55 + shipping from amazon, but I can't remember what the part # was.

The WCF bleeder/clutch line connector is the most compact setup and could be cheaper overall depending on how much you have to spend to get the OEM bleeder assy. However, I don't think the stock Fiero clutch line will reach it without changing it routing/frame attachment to gain more length. Their bleeder/clutch line connector is in the upper right of the picture:


I developed a clutch line connector that accepts the stock fiero hard line and clicks into the OEM bleeder assy for the HTOB. It is currently being tested on my car and will be available for purchase in a couple more weeks ($45 shipped).



Here is my prototype version where I changed the flare on the fiero clutch line. The big thing to focus on in this picture is the routing and length of the stock fiero clutch line. If the bleeder assy wasn't there (adding length), the line would have to be detached from the frame rail and rerouted to gain about 3" more length.


The bleeder assy connects directly to the HTOB and is all that is needed (as shown in the picture above).

The Roger Thelin connector uses the wrong flare for the Fiero clutch hard line. So while some people have gotten it to seal leak free, it deforms the ends. The Fiero clutch hard line is a bubble flare (convex flare and mates to a concave flare). The Thelin adapter is also a convex flare and should mate to a concave flare. Using the two together is mating a convex flare to convex flare and leaves only a small ring of deformed material making the seal.

Thelin adapter end:


Stock Fiero hardline after used with Thelin adapter:


.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-03-2014).]

Bridgetown, I have read that thread 20 times and think I have most of the info committed to memory.
The parts I am missing from the HTOB assembly are the black 90 deg. part that connects to the HTOB as well as the bleeder T piece.
It looks like Fieroguru has a fix for the connection of the Fiero line to the T that would work.
Now have to figure out if I need a spacer for the bearing?

Bob

yes, use a .250" spacer to be safe

Where can I get the spacer? and a bleeder?
I will have the 90 deg. and Y by the end of the day.
And what is the best way to clean the case to prep for paint?
It is a little rough, I can degrease it but the aluminum is oxidized quite a bit.
Any thoughts?

spec sells the spacer, or ya can have one made like i did.

I blew the crap off my f23 with compressed air, then used a wire brush to get rid of what oxidation i could. Then used compressed air and a can of brake clean to get any oils off it.

[This message has been edited by fieroaddicted (edited 10-03-2014).]

Please don't assume it needs a spacer. Measure your clutch/pressure plate/flywheel combo so you know for sure.

There have been several people who have installed one and it wasn't needed. The end result is over travel of the pressure plate fingers into the clutch disk.

Point well taken.
I will measure it first.
Thanks

I looked up my previous Amazon orders to find the part number. I think this is the cheapest option to get a new bleeder assembly. It still comes with the clutch master and the lines, but all you need is the bleeder portion:



At amazon.com: Dorman CM640069 Clutch Master Cylinder $47.11 and is eligible for free shipping through prime.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref...%20Master%20Cylinder

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-03-2014).]