I was wondering if anyone had researched using a housing from a different car? I know you can cut up and weld the fiero housing and it works good and I know you can use a stock 3800 housing with a high fill point like this http://www.summitracing.com.../mor-63745/overview/

I have found some good candidates for a possible direct bolt on housing with a fill point but have no idea if any will work without having a part in hand. I may go out and just buy a couple from local parts stores and see if any work so I can return them easily. A junkyard would be the best option but I work 9-5 weekdays so that is kind of out for me. Anyway here are my findings (I used autozone since they give a lot of specs on the parts):

Stock 3800 housing for comparison:
http://www.autozone.com/ext...r-outlet/524803_0_0/

This can be found on a 01-09 PT Cruiser. I know its plastic and I know a PT Cruiser but if it bolts right on that would be cool. Probably will get in the way of the boost bypass but if you delete it, it doesn't matter.
http://www.autozone.com/ext...er-outlet/20389_0_0/

This can be found on 95-00 Chrysler Cirrus or Sebring Convertable. A bit better since its aluminum and also better shape overall for a fiero.
http://www.autozone.com/ext...r-outlet/177471_0_0/

This can be found on 95-06 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth vehicles. Plastic small but if it works cool.
http://www.autozone.com/ext...r-outlet/398638_0_0/

My favorite and most promising from 90-94 Eagle Talon, 90-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse, and 90-94 Plymouth Laser with the 2.0L Engine (turbo or not doesn't matter). If this works it would clear the boost bypass with a fill point and its metal and its only one part. This is a lot longer than it looks in the pictures.
http://www.autozone.com/ext...r-outlet/768423_0_0/

Anyway, if anyone has one of these cars or access to one of these cars to do some measuring that would be spectacular. I have thought about going to get some gaskets just to see if they are even the right size or not but if someone can narrow these down without a trip to the store that's better.

Hope one of these work or I just spent a few hours on nothing

I used the stock 3800 housing, I fill the coolant with the hose off as much as I can and then clamp it, then run the car up to temp and crack the bleeder on the stock 3800 housing. as long a the resivor up front stays full you'll never have an issue

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1986 SE 3800SC/4t65eHD (12.871@104.96)
HX-40, FrozenBoost I/C, 80lb injectors & E85 Coming soon.....

Well I looked into all of the housings and one will actually work! I will be putting it together in the next few days and will post pictures.

Its the 93-00 cirrus one that works. The mounting holes are about than an 1/8 inch off which is easily fixable. The big problem is the base is smaller and you can see the thermostat rubber ring. Ill post about my solution

quote Originally posted by Riddick85: Well I looked into all of the housings and one will actually work! I will be putting it together in the next few days and will post pictures. Its the 93-00 cirrus one that works. The mounting holes are about than an 1/8 inch off which is easily fixable. The big problem is the base is smaller and you can see the thermostat rubber ring. Ill post about my solution

That looks like a nice housing but remember you will need to use the GTP thermostat and the base size will be critical unless you fab an adapter, but if you do that making the housing up might be just as easy. Keep us posted, this is very interesting.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

I already was at the machine shop and am getting the adapter made. Really hoping this works but it seems the boost bypass will be in the way. Not a problem for me since I am not going to have it but for others it may be. If it could get rotated so it sits straight up it would probably fit but I am not sure how well it would function like that.

Anyway once I get all the parts I need I will get the pics up. I could take some pics of the housing if anyone really wants them but I should have the adapter in a few days.

[This message has been edited by Riddick85 (edited 12-03-2014).]

I tried the summit one, NOT high enough. I ended up running a Heater hose that was unused off the front of the Alt bracket,l capped it off with a "Back flush" cap. it can be unscrewed and filled and sits even with the Topof the engine compartment ! Cost of Back flush setup and the Hose, $7-

Well its a success! Well my engine isn't in the car yet but it is mounted and I see no reason why it wouldn't work. This was the one I used: http://www.autozone.com/ext...PID=6153124&cmpid=cj You definitely cannot use this with the boost bypass valve in place unless you mount the valve a different way. I still haven't given up on possibly using the eclipse one from my first post (which will probably clear the BBV) but I would have to pay the shipping just to get it to the parts store and the Cirrus one works.

I started out with this little guy. Both the bottom hole where the thermostat is and where the hose mounts is the same size as the stock 3800. It is also even at the exact same angle coming away from the engine!
http://i.imgur.com/LkfHphv.jpg

Unfortunately the mounting base is way smaller on this one than the stock 3800 one and you can see the rubber ring around the thermostat. No good. You need to make an adapter that is the same size as the stock 3800 base to seal on the thermostat and to mount the new housing to. If I had some scrap 1/4" metal laying around I would have just made this myself instead of having a shop do it, it is really simple. The reason I opted for 1/4" plate instead of something thinner is the stock 3800 housing angles upward to keep it away from the exhaust, this housing goes straight out at 90 degrees. It would be very close to touching with something thinner but more on this later on.
http://i.imgur.com/9TY1ePi.jpg

With the gasket. Not sure exactly what this one was from. It was from the parts I bought at the store to compare housing and I just didn't return this one.
http://i.imgur.com/eM3Dxiy.jpg

The mounting holes are slightly too close together on the housing so I took a drill and kind of pulled it sideways into the housing to elongate the holes (this is not too good for your drill bits btw)
This:
http://i.imgur.com/QE95Dqt.jpg

To This (I know I failed to make them even kind of straight to one side but oh well):
http://i.imgur.com/ZgVHWQK.jpg

Now it will mount to the intake but there is an overflow tube coming out the side. You could just leave it alone but if you over heat the engine you will have a super soaker of coolant shooting the supercharger. You could just get a small piece of rubber hose, shove a bolt in the end of it and clamp it down to close it off but that will look bad. I chose to tap the hole and put a bolt in it (Would have used a set screw if I had one that big laying around). The tube is just pressed in and a little work with some pliers and it was out. The hole may be metric but it is very close to 3/8". I used the drill to drill out the shoulder in the back of the hole so I could tap the hole all the way through. I used a 7/16"-14 tap on mine only because I had the bolt to fit it but any 7/16 tap would work. You need a pretty short bolt to fit in the hole since you do not want it protruding in any way into the housing and also use some teflon tape to make it nice a snug and not leak.
http://i.imgur.com/UzRabsk.jpg

And that's it! Bolt it on.
http://i.imgur.com/zWY57yM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ABIYjYr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/D7Mi47D.jpg

Also, about how close it is to the exhaust. I believe it will be fine since the stock hose goes over this same route. I threw a piece of old hose on just to show how close it will be.
http://i.imgur.com/EMti4yp.jpg

I haven't tested this on a running car yet but hopefully by the end of the year ill have it all together. If anyone has any other questions feel free to shoot them my way.

Oh and if I had made the adapter myself, it would have been cheaper to do this than to buy the moroso inline filler that most people use. About $26 for housing and like $2 for the gasket.

Just an update. Engine is in and runs well and no leaks using this housing. Thermostat operates normally, was easy to fill and it looks better than adapting a fiero one

A disadvantage I see of using a stock tstat type is initially filling, even with a place to fill the tstat needs removed before you can fill the engine properly...

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86 Fiero GT: 3800sc/Manual, Cam/Mods.

Ya it did take some extra time to fill up but I would rather do that than un-bolt the stock housing. I just started it a few timex to make the coolant go through the system. I do have a thermostat with the tiny hole in it for some bypass to happen.

Also it looks so much better than having a fiero housing or the aftermarket inline ones.

Just gonna bump this to the top since I had someone ask me a question about it and in case someone wanted another option. I have put about 10k miles on my car with no problems using this thermostat housing. It does take awhile to fill because of the way the thermostat is but its not bad.

There is even someone selling the part I had to have machined in the mall section now so it is even easier.