Was poking around the Cave to see how to burp air from my system.
Wanted to ask for thoughts on a coolant drain valve that would be mounted to the side of the thermostat housing.
My thinking is to braze or weld a small tube to the outside of the neck as to not interfere with thermostat itself.
Just run the engine and slowly crack the a little at a time to release the air. (high point in the system)
Thanks!


-Photo belongs to polaris_5256

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1988 Fiero 2.5

The system bleeds air into the overflow tank in front. Just keep the overflow tank at the proper level.

Coolant enters the radiator at the top and exits from the bottom, trapping any air in the system. The air is forced into the overflow tank when system pressure due to heat exceeds the pressure rating of the cap. As the system cools, vacuum pulls coolant from the overflow tank into the radiator.

You are fixing something that is not broken.

Ok, Good to know. Thank you.
It scares me to death that I'll mess this up and crack/ warp something.
It makes me feel better knowing it's not as troublesome as I thought.

When you get ready to add coolant, follow this procedure.....
With car level, and the front cap off, add coolant via the engine thermostat housing (thermostat removed) until the radiator is full.
Install the radiator cap.
Continue filling the system thru the engine thermostat housing until the engine is full.
Fill the driver side coolant tube by pouring coolant down the coolant hose attached to the thermostat housing until the system is full. Fill the front overflow tank with coolant.
Replace thermostat housing cap, start engine and run for a few minutes while checking for leaks.
Remove thermostat housing cap and top off coolant. Repeat until no coolant needs to be replenished. Reinstall thermostat.
Monitor level in front overflow tank to prevent it from emptying.

I've just making a update to filling/burping page...
(Coolant Fill)

Tstant housing Does Not need air bleed.

When all seals caps etc are good, air bubbles Will move to radiator when engine is running.

Bad cap or housing are problems But Good parts can fake problems because can take 1 to several heat cycles to purge air out of system.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

quote Originally posted by theogre: I've just making a update to filling/burping page... (Coolant Fill) Tstant housing Does Not need air bleed. When all seals caps etc are good, air bubbles Will move to radiator when engine is running. Bad cap or housing are problems But Good parts can fake problems because can take 1 to several heat cycles to purge air out of system.

This.

quote Originally posted by theogre: Tstat housing Does Not need air bleed. When all seals caps etc are good, air bubbles Will move to radiator when engine is running.

Agreed! All I've ever done is "2 steps" below...

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: When you get ready to add coolant, follow this procedure..... Step 1 With car level, and the front cap off, add coolant via the engine thermostat housing (thermostat removed) until the radiator is full. Install the radiator cap. Step 2 Continue filling the system thru the engine thermostat housing until the engine is full.

I then monitor the coolant level in the overflow tank.

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