150,000 miles are on the clock and my clutch safety switch finally wore itself out. I followed the procedure posted on here to attempt to clean the contacts of my switch, but when I got to the terminals I found extreme wear; one of the little bumps that the spring loaded plate slides on top of to complete the circuit was completely worn away.



TLDR: I need a new switch.

I have been searching for a replacement Clutch safety switch for my 88 GT and apparently it is no longer available when I called up a few parts stores. Instead of asking around for a used one that will probably fail for the same reason as mine did in a few miles I went on a hunt online for a replacement. I know most of you guys short out the plug so that your car cranks without pressing the clutch down, but I didn't want to do that.

Long story short I found this switch that has a body almost identical except for an extra set of contacts that are usually blank on the Fiero's switch, and the rod that attaches to the clutch pedal itself. The part number is NS-88. Interchange part numbers are DR4069, S9276, D2271A, 53-31549, 1S5101, ECHNS6445.

Apparently out of an 88 S10 according to the listing on Ebay.

As of right now it's too soon to say if it works since I just ordered it now, but ill report back if it does and what I had to do to get it working.

------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

I have read, elsewhere, about a substitute switch.
The more I think about it, the more I think it's the same one you found. Good show!

AFAIK, it's not common knowledge. Thanks for sharing.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 04-02-2015).]

Alright guys, great news! The switch fits in there and works perfectly! The minor differences between the switches are not a problem at all...

The only differences in the two switches:

• An extra set of contacts that don't plug into anything.
  
• The connecting rod to the pedal has a different mounting. Odds are you won't need to replace this part, but if you do, slight modifications match the old part will be required.

Compairing the two switches:


Picture of just new switch:


Picture of Fiero switch from Bloozberry


You can see the difference in the connecting rod with this picture: on the left side there is a small hole as opposed to the big loop should be on the Fiero connecting rod, and the tiny locking teeth are in the wrong spot for the plastic slider limiter; as you can faintly see, the teeth are on the left side and smooth with no teeth on the right. Modifications will be needed here if you need to replace this part.


I know it's self explanatory to replace this switch but to make it so easy even a caveman could do it:

You get in your manual transmission Fiero, press the clutch to the floor, turn the key and a no crank situation? Check your Clutch safety switch first before going crazy. How you may ask? It's the "highest" switch on the clutch pedal assembly. It's white. You cant miss it. Unplug the connector (it has two pins inside), put your car in neutral, hold the brake pedal down, and use a paper clip to "jump" the two terminals together in the connector. Turn the key again, try to start it up; If your car now cranks and starts you need a new switch!

Removal and installation:

1. Chock wheel to prevent movement, our E-brakes don't work so well sometimes! :P
   
2. Remove connector from old switch and move out of your way.
   
3. Use a permanent marker to mark where that plastic slider limiter is sitting for easy starting point for adjustment of new switch later.
   
4. Unclip slider limiter with pocket flat head screw driver.
   
5. Remove the 7mm bolt that holds the switch on. A little tight to get at it, use a 1/4 ratchet and you may need a small extension.
   
6. Simply pull old switch out of old connecting rod.
   
7. Carefully remove the new connecting rod from new switch by pulling out cotter pin and slide it out, be careful not to get the internal spring all tangled up.
   
8. Carefully slide in new switch onto old connecting rod.
   
9. Re install 7mm bolt and tighten up.
   
10. Re connect plastic slider limiter on permanent marker line
    
11. Actuate clutch a few times with your hand, keeping an eye on the throw of the switch. Make sure the switch is adjusted correctly (Kinda hard to explain); make sure the slider limiter isn't "slamming" against the switch, but keep in mind you want full travel.
    
12. Re connect connector and check for proper operation.

Part numbers are in the first post!

Thanks for reading guys, may the force be with you...

------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 04-06-2015).]

I always push the clutch down when starting anyway by habit. When I had a switch go out, I just connected the two wires and forgot about it. Thats just me though.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I always push the clutch down when starting anyway by habit. When I had a switch go out, I just connected the two wires and forgot about it. Thats just me though.

Same here, except sometimes I throw it into neutral and start without bothering to push the clutch.

I covered the usage of the NS88 switch on pg 18 of my LS4/F40 thread back in 2013, but never broke out the information into a separate thread
It took a few tweaks, but has been working for a couple years now.

Good job showing the details of the switch retrofit!

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 04-08-2015).]

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I covered the usage of the NS88 switch on pg 18 of my LS4/F40 thread back in 2013, but never broke out the information into a separate thread It took a few tweaks, but has been working for a couple years now. Good job showing the details of the switch retrofit!

Thanks man, I really appreciate it!

This basic little write up is the least I can do for this community! I wish I saw your post about the retrofit in your thread; would have saved me some time looking around online for a similar switch!

------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

If the plastic parts of the original switch are still usable could you not just transfer the contacts from the new one into the original switch?
Just thinking out loud.

Spoon

------------------
"Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut

Technically, yes... But I believe they may be actually molded into the switch body. Its really not needed though, as the only thing that needs modifications is the new actuating rod; which in most cases won't need to be replaced when the switch fails!

------------------
"Discord"
Red 1988 GT under restoration!

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

On mine, the pedal rod was coming out the wrong side, so I just took off the limit coupler and the round barrel thing right next to it and flipped it around - those two parts just clip on. You could also install the fiero one if needed... takes about 30 seconds and much easier than pulling the contacts.

The clutch switch was designed for lady drivers who forget to depress the clutch to start. Mine went south so I bypassed it. Cheap and doesn't hurt a thing. Of course if I wasn't experienced I wouldn't do it, but for a hotrodder, the switches are just an addition imho.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I covered the usage of the NS88 switch on pg 18 of my LS4/F40 thread back in 2013...

Maybe that's where I saw it.