Over the last week or so I have had 3 instances where I was unable to start my daily driver (88 GT). I turn the key and all the dash lights come on normally but when continuing to turn to the start position nothing happens. No cranking of the starter at all. Each time this happened I was able to start the car by kind of jerking and shaking the steering wheel/column and turning the key. I'd like to get this resolved before I really get stranded someplace. Also, unsure if this is related but in the same time period it has been slower to start. It used to turn over and fire up immediately. Now it seems to turn over longer and slower than before. Any suggestions?

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John Wayne as John Bernard Books in The Shootist...
" I won't be wronged. I won't be insulted. I won't be laid a-hand on. I don't do these things to other people, and I require the same from them."

My rides...
1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic
2006 Harley Sportster
'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.

Next time it does this put it in neutral and see if the problem resolves. Im betting your problem is in your park neutral safety switch as shaking the column helps starting it. The slow starting could be unrelated however try this next time you start it. Prime the fuel system by cycling the key a few times and see if it fires right up, if so my money would be on fuel pressure regulator. The oil sender can cause slow starts as well as if I recall correctly the ecu references oil pressure in closed loop starting before it will fire the injectors.

Slower cranking and hard starting could also be a failing starter. You may have more than one problem.

quote Originally posted by 87antuzzi: Next time it does this put it in neutral and see if the problem resolves. Im betting your problem is in your park neutral safety switch as shaking the column helps starting it. The slow starting could be unrelated however try this next time you start it. Prime the fuel system by cycling the key a few times and see if it fires right up, if so my money would be on fuel pressure regulator. The oil sender can cause slow starts as well as if I recall correctly the ecu references oil pressure in closed loop starting before it will fire the injectors.

For accuracy, clarification and education.....

The Neutral Safety Switch is on the transmission, not in the steering column. The Ignition Switch is on top of the column.
Priming the system is a good idea.
The Oil Pressure Switch only acts as a backup to the Fuel Pump Relay. If you hear the pump turn on with the key, the relay is OK. The pressure switch is not hooked into the ECU.

How's your battery?

The main problem is likely the ignition switch binding or needing adjustment, but if the voltage was higher this might not matter. When I had this problem a booster battery would often be enough if I was stuck somewhere. Unfortunately I kept turning the key so hard it broke the lock, the key, and the ignition pushrod follower. If you do that you can get the parts on a Help card, but you'll need to rent or buy some special tools to take the column apart.

Adjusting the ignition switch usually requires taking the dash apart and dropping the column. Otherwise you need to be a patient contortionist to work on it. You might try using the wand on a spray can of lithium grease or WD-40 to lubricate the top of the steering column behind the dash. The pushrod can bind between the switch body and the top of the column.

If it's a manual the neutral safety switch is on the clutch. It may have slipped. It may also have been bypassed. Look under your dash for a big pink wire near the clutch. It should be connected to a big white plastic contraption with a rod sticking out the back. That's the clutch safety switch. All it does is allow the starter to connect when you have the clutch depressed, but people often bypass it by connecting the wires directly. Maybe those wires are loose at that jury-rigged connection.

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll try to check these ideas on the weekend since this is my daily driver. Unfortunately I also have an 86 GT on jackstands in the garage and if I don't get the brakes fixed pretty quick I'll be in the dog house.

Here's my project list...

88 GT daily driver:
Check the starting issue on this post.
Install the new cupholder / armrest / door I got from TXGOOD.
Clean and lube the sticky power locks.
Re-install the driver side headlight motor that stopped working a couple of days ago.
Replace the slow, weak power window motors

86 GT:
Reassemble the left rear caliper.
Bleed the brakes - again.
Fix the parking brake.
Re-install the subwoofer speaker housing with the new speaker from Rodney
Figure out what to do with the sagging headliner.
Sort out the erratic retraction on the driver side headlight.
Replace the twisted leather steering wheel with the nice one I got on craigslist.
Tighten down the loose nuts on drivers seat.
Clean and lube the sticky power locks.
Sort out the wiper / cruise control issues. (Cruise control doesn't work and the wipers don't stop unless you press the cruise control button!)


Kinda sucks when you list it all out like that.
I guess it's like I tell my kids. Set your priorities, work smart, and then just keep putting one foot in front of the other. Eventually you will reach your destination.

[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 04-10-2015).]

quote Originally posted by Rsvl-Rider: 88 GT daily driver: Check the starting issue on this post. 86 GT: Reassemble the left rear caliper. Bleed the brakes - again. Tighten down the loose nuts on drivers seat.

Prioritized for ya

I see you've swapped in a 3.4. I've had an issue with 3 starters breaking and losing ground with the engine. Sometimes hard starting and sometimes it takes a couple of bumps before the starter will engage. This is one of the earlier starters, but they have all been the same.

+1 on 2.5's priorities. Four out of five sound like weak battery, poor grounds, and bad or loose battery cables.

quote Originally posted by olejoedad: For accuracy, clarification and education..... The Neutral Safety Switch is on the transmission, not in the steering column. The Ignition Switch is on top of the column.

For weekend planning purposes...

I appreciate all the responses and I will check each one in turn. It seems to me that the the problem would likely be somewhere in the steering column since a good jolt there has worked each time. For that reason I'm not sure it would be the park/neutral safety switch since it seems that is located on the transmission. Assuming for the moment that I'm correct, and remembering this is an automatic, does it seem more likely that the problem would be in the ignition switch? Or somewhere else on the column?

As usual it seems, my instincts were wrong and the group consensus was correct. The battery terminals didn't look bad but when I cleaned the flat surfaces of the battery side terminals I brushed out some hidden corrosion.

Problem has not occurred since.

Thanks!

quote Originally posted by Rsvl-Rider: As usual it seems, my instincts were wrong and the group consensus was correct. The battery terminals didn't look bad but when I cleaned the flat surfaces of the battery side terminals I brushed out some hidden corrosion. Problem has not occurred since. Thanks!

Thats great when the simplest fix works! My grandfather used to sday start witht he simplest / easiest.

I know its solved but ill throw in my 2 cents. My pushrod in the key ignition was getting bound. I just fixed it yesterday. Sprayed some PB blaster in the key hole and all around/ in the steering wheel. No problems anymore. The pushrod getting bound would make the lights dim on the crank, but it needed an extra 1/5 of a turn to fire up. Try cranking it just a little harder and see if it fires up. don't man handle it, just give it an extra few lbs of torque to see if it moves.

If not, do as described and check the battery system