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Replacing Shocks, Struts, Springs, Brakes, & Rotors.... by 87RedRum
Started on: 09-24-2015 12:19 PM
Replies: 9 (972 views)
Last post by: jaskispyder on 12-15-2015 11:27 AM
87RedRum
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Report this Post09-24-2015 12:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87RedRumSend a Private Message to 87RedRumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I recently purchased all new shocks, struts, springs, brakes, & rotors...and I was wondering, if I am going to replace all of this, is it best to just do it all at 1 time? Is there anything that I would have to remove to do 1 job vs. the other, that would just make sense to replace at the same time??? And would it just be easier to do the brakes/rotors when doing the shock/struts or visa versa...or NO? Let me know your thoughts on this.
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Report this Post09-24-2015 12:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mcguiver3Send a Private Message to mcguiver3Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you have everything I would just take the time and swap it all.
It really is not that long of a job, maybe a week end
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theogre
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Report this Post09-24-2015 04:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Springs/Struts need an alignment... so do those a same time.
Brakes can wait or do first.

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Monkeyman
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Report this Post09-24-2015 05:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MonkeymanSend a Private Message to MonkeymanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you're doing brakes, you might as well get new soft hoses. And, if you're doing all the rest of that, why not get all new bushings and ball joints? Might as well completely rebuild the front end. Add another weekend in the garage and another $300 to the bill but then you don't have to worry about it for the next 20 years.
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jscott1
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Report this Post09-25-2015 02:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jscott1Send a Private Message to jscott1Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Monkeyman:

If you're doing brakes, you might as well get new soft hoses. And, if you're doing all the rest of that, why not get all new bushings and ball joints? Might as well completely rebuild the front end. Add another weekend in the garage and another $300 to the bill but then you don't have to worry about it for the next 20 years.


I agree with you, but this line of thinking is the path to financial ruin. If you are going to do struts, springs, brakes and rotors, bushings and ball joints, might as well do tie rod ends, and if you are doing that when why not replace the stamped A-arms with tubular A-arms. And if you are going to do that, might as well install a bump steer kit, and if you are going to do that why not replace the cradle with an 88 cradle, and if you are going to do that why not swap in a new engine... and so on and so on.
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87RedRum
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Report this Post09-25-2015 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87RedRumSend a Private Message to 87RedRumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Lol, what I have right now is in my budget...all I have to purchase the inner and outer wheel bearings for the front when I replace the rotors, and those are cheap!

[This message has been edited by 87RedRum (edited 09-25-2015).]

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Monkeyman
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Report this Post09-25-2015 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MonkeymanSend a Private Message to MonkeymanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jscott1:


I agree with you, but this line of thinking is the path to financial ruin. If you are going to do struts, springs, brakes and rotors, bushings and ball joints, might as well do tie rod ends, and if you are doing that when why not replace the stamped A-arms with tubular A-arms. And if you are going to do that, might as well install a bump steer kit, and if you are going to do that why not replace the cradle with an 88 cradle, and if you are going to do that why not swap in a new engine... and so on and so on.


Nah. A arms aren't generally a wear item. While a bump steer kit would improve the handling, it's not something stock that wears out. Same with the cradle and a new engine. Those are certainly an improvement but without them, it will still be an '84-'87 Fiero.

All I'm saying is that it would make sense to replace the wear items. If they're not shot now, they will be eventually. I hope to rebuild my front suspension this winter. That will include: tie rods (inner and outer), bushings, ball joints, shocks and steering stabilizer. I won't replace anything else unless I see that it's broken. If that's the case, I'll replace it with stock. I'm not going to autocross my car, I just want it to handle like a new Fiero.
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post09-27-2015 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey, he bought a Fiero, he's already on that road! I would replace the hard lines while you're at it. The brake hoses attach to the struts. Hopefully you won't find rust. That also turns into Ruin Rd.
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87RedRum
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Report this Post12-15-2015 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 87RedRumSend a Private Message to 87RedRumEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well...by the time I got all the front and rear suspension apart, I did notice quite a few bushings and other issues that were well worn out! For the front, in additional to what I already mentioned above, I also replaced the outer tie rod ends, replaced the bushings with energy suspension, new lower ball joints, & new sway bar end links & bushings. For the rear, I replaced EVERYTHING that dealt with the struts, the strut, shock, rubber shock end caps, bump stops, bellows, and the strut top mount, bracket, and all bolts....took a while longer than originally anticipated, but its done and handles great now!
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post12-15-2015 11:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you want to go cheap, replace struts and shocks, use original springs, change brakes (check rotors and change if needed). You may find that your calipers will need to be replaced. I would grease the front bearings, and replace if signs of wear. Ball joints, check, and grease. I wouldn't change the rubber lines, unless you see an issue, same for hard. You can do those later. The bleeder in the caliper will sometimes fuse with the caliper and you will need to replace the caliper (or get creative with a fix). Just my thoughts.

Oh, don't over tighten the caliper/hose banjo bolt. The calipers are aluminum and will strip. Get new copper crush washers and if you have to, use some emery cloth to smooth out the rough surface where the cooper washer mates withe the caliper. These are machined from the factory, but rebuilds are just sandblasted and usually rough (causing leaks). I wish they would machine those surfaces when they rebuild.

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