Lubrication may not be advisable... What usually happens is the foam edges on the doors fall off and get tangled in the works. They have sticky-tape foam insulation around the edges like the stuff you buy for your doors and windows in your house...(but smaller). The problem is that you have to take the IP apart to get to them.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 10-04-2015).]
You can access them by removing the center console and heater tray next to the accelerator pedal. They Unbolt/screw and never had one apart, but looks like the case can be halved by removing screws or rivets....kind of like headlight motors. Low voltage and amps can make them struggle too.
Might be normal... The motor does make noise to start. Then add the motors are directly mounted to the AC/Heat box that acts as sound board to amplify the sound. (Same thing as violin etc make string sound allot louder.)
Worse, Mix motor is on big flat area of the AC box, right behind the radio, and Nothing to adsorb the sound. And mix motor controls 2 doors too so does more work.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by f85gtron: You can access them by removing the center console and heater tray next to the accelerator pedal. They Unbolt/screw and never had one apart, but looks like the case can be halved by removing screws or rivets....kind of like headlight motors. Low voltage and amps can make them struggle too.
The motors screws and connector are fairly easy... The door arms and clip the doors are attach to are a giant pain. Worse when you drop them inside the box.
The motor have a varistor/"MOV" in series (Small gray disk) on AC/Heat controls. You can't trust a meter at motor connect to get volt reading and mean anything to most users. You need data for the varistor to know what GM did and little to none info is available.
But check the control board for loose/crack contentions. Crack solder joints can make problems. Usually make intermittent connections etc.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-04-2015).]
Thanks guys. Luckily they're both still working, was just hoping that there would be a simple way to fix the creaking sound as the motors are moving. Best to just leave well enough alone.
To be correct the "blend" door is hot to cold and on a cable/wire, no motor. I know what you are talking about though, the vent, to floor, to defrost, to A/C etc, just saying.
Nah, my Fiero is a one-of-a-kind with factory electrical blend door. Hahahaha, jk. However, the next time I'm behind that dash I'm going to spray the pivot points for those doors.
I just didn't care about exact name of door... Correct names are Mode door actuator runs 2 doors (PN 3052051) and Recirculation door actuator runs 1 door (PN 3052050). (PN stamped on box side.)
Note that the two motors look the same at first glance but are different electrically. Big gear inside has connects that open/close at points AC control head call for.
Correction: Thermistor, not Varistor in my post above.
quote
Originally posted by donuteater306: Nah, my Fiero is a one-of-a-kind with factory electrical blend door. Hahahaha, jk. However, the next time I'm behind that dash I'm going to spray the pivot points for those doors.
That can get you more problems in the future. AC/Heat box is very dirty to start and Oil/grease holds dirt and will accelerate wear etc problems. Many oil/grease products will attack plastic.
I have been scouring threads for days and can't seem to find a good solution to obtaining another stinkin motor man. My servo motor continuously buzzes like a nagging wife that won't rest until I hit the off button. I've heard one of the fiero distributors sells used ones but somebody got the wrong one sent to them and it was broken. Sooo, if anybody has an extra working unit lying around or a simple mod, lmk. Thanks. Sincerely, Magoo
Originally posted by modsquad: I have been scouring threads for days and can't seem to find a good solution to obtaining another stinkin motor man. My servo motor continuously buzzes like a nagging wife that won't rest until I hit the off button.
Off button sets the mode motor to heat then motor shuts off itself.
You might be able to fix a motor w/ this. Carefully cut the cover "rivets" to see what is keeping motor on.
Not sure how to attach cover after. Left over "rivets" might keep locating it and just use zip ties to keep it on.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Are you sure the noise is door motor(s) and not crap in the blower fan? Check all blower speeds or unplug blower switch or blower up front.
The only time the blower is off is when you push the off button.
The Door Motors will have power even when you push the off button. Off button means to them: Recirc door will close. (only open if you push Max AC.) Mode motor moves to heat mode. Both motors will shut off their selves when done moving.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-16-2015).]
I have the problem of switching to vents and nothing comes out I switch to defrost works fine, switch to heater very little comes out how do you fix this I have non AC car
Non-ac car only have 2 cables, no motors, to make the blend doors move. The door and cable to select the mode (defrost, vents, heater) run from the control head to the hvac box right behind the radio. The door and cable for blending hot and cold run from the control head to behind the passenger dash and terminate at the top of the hvac box where the heater core access panel seam runs. Check behind the fan and resistors to make sure some of your troubles aren't caused by leaves and nests blocking the air path inside the box. At the very least, pull the resistors panel and clean leaves out before a fire starts!
