Hi guys, I own a 88 Fiero GT

i'm having trouble installing new camber bolts. For adjusting the positive camber i have, due to replacing the rear struts with monroes.

The bolts that go in through the bottom knuckle hole. After putting in all the washers and what not, the camber bolt does not seem long enough, but just as much that it can get the job done.

i bought them from rockauto. TRW 13209A.

I am trying to adjust for negative camber. But the knuckle or the strut don't seem to move at all when i tighten the camber bolt. When i slightly tighten the nut on the camber bolt and when i turn the bolt. The whole bolt and nut turn together. Is that suppose to happen?. Or is the camber bolt only suppose to turn.

Also which way do i turn the camber bolt to achieve negative camber.

Thanks guys for the help.

Ok, First, I just bought those exact ones, and I really couldn't use them because the Rear stabilizer bar bracket gets in the way; It makes the strut/spindle thicker, and it eliminates the ability of the front eccentric washer to do it's job- The rear one would have probably still done the job, but I also like the Fully-threaded original bolts vs the partial-thread set-up. For negative camber, you want the eccentric to move; wide-side-in...this will force the strut inward and the wheel to tilt in(Top in). I use a big screwdriver between the strut-bottom and the spindle, with the two nut-bolt assemblies tight enough that they almost hold- force it, then tighten the bottom one while holding the screwdriver- And I just go to where the bolt-flange is almost contacting the outer strut flange...I wish I had a picture.....I know this isn't exact, but it's pretty close until I get the front rebopped, and then I'll get it re-aligned professionally...Also, be aware that there could definitely be "Production-tolerence" issues with my way of judging correct alignment- Meaning, your car may vary!

Many people have to grind a spot on 88 knuckle so will clear aftermarket struts.
use search or wait for 88 owner

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

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You should've continued this in your original thread so that the same stuff isn't dredged up all over again.

Just FYI they prob would work on an 88 coupe as they don't have the rear sway bar, V6 ones do, prob a generic part that they didn't account for.
Also FYI the offset washer goes on the strut side and not the sway bar side and on the bottom not the top. I don't know how well it would work on the sway bar side.

I just looked up the part number you gave, that is different than all that I have seen, all I have seen are black bolts and have the lock nut and no lock washer, that one looks cheap. I don't know where they came from as I always pulled them off of Fieros. They are not necessary but do make it easier. There is no right way to turn it to adjust, it depends on where the offset washer is, measure-turn it-measure, then you know. Or do like the factory and push the tire in or out to adjust.

Re-reading your first post, you turn the bolt to adjust, once where you want it, hold the bolt and tighten the nut.

Edit to add:

quote Originally posted by Patrick: You should've continued this in your original thread so that the same stuff isn't dredged up all over again.

But this way search works better for future people

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[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-11-2015).]

quote Originally posted by sardonyx247: But this way search works better for future people

Uh-huh.

I'm pretty sure these are the ones I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spe...em4af0b95be5&vxp=mtr

They worked fine on a Formula. Even with the sway bar bracket.

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Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

If you don't grind for clearance where we told you in your other thread the camber bolts can't do anything. The bolts don't give you more adjustment - they only make adjustment easier.