Been awhile so I figured I would post a project update. The Corvette Brakes are installed and working great. The front does lockup before the rear now so I will be fixing that soon. I have 88 rear calipers I am going to install with C4 rotors.
I started my next project which is the instrument cluster. I originally wanted to use an Android tablet and Torque. The problem I ran into was keeping the tablet charged. Since I don't drive the Fiero every day it would discharge then getting it started back up was a pain. So I decided to go with an Intellitronix Create-A-Dash. I got most of the wiring finished up last night and hope to finish the install in the next few days. I have to change out the oil pressure sender and install a second water temp sender. Other than that it is mostly plug and play.
Test fitting it in the pod.
Starting the wiring.
First plug in test.
Turn signal test as well as the fuel level.
I wired it up for a V6 engine on the tach but it is reading high. There is a different method outlined in the instructions for a LS swap I am betting the 3800 pcm sends out the rpm signal the same as the LS pcm so I will try that next. Once this is all done there will be a piece of smoked plexi that sits over the top. You may wonder why I moved all of the gauges here instead of keeping two in the center stack. I still want a tablet in the car and I am going to use the center stack area as a tablet mount so I can run Android Auto without having to install a Double Din stereo.
Nice build. Just wondering how your cylindrical trans cooler is working out? The reason that GM put the cooler in the radiator is because the fluid never gets warmer than the coolant. My 4T65eHD runs at a steady 180*, same as the engine thermostat. On my 4.9L build I plan to use a front mounted external cooler up front in the air flow. The hotter the trans fluid, the shorter the trans life, so we need to be concerned about trans fluid temps. While the trans cooler that you run may be doing the job any summer temp readings to share would be appreciated. If your solution works, a lot of 3800 swaps would probably now use it. Seems quick and easy but actual results will tell the story.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Sorry to have missed your post. So far I am very happy with the performance. I completed over 200 miles in the car a few weeks ago. In the Texas 100*+ heat, the highest I observed was 215*. This is well within the safe range for this transmission. It really depends on your level of comfort. It won't stay at 180* when it is 100+ outside. I did hard twisties runs and never found anything to be worried about. If you want it to cool more, there are larger heatsink coolers you can get or dual heatsink coolers.
If you choose to stick with the radiator pass through it will come up to temp faster, which is a good thing, I would recommend replacing the stock lines. They are smaller than the 4T65E-HD lines and creates a pressurized situation that I think poses a problem. It is why TXGood had the AC style clamped lines made for his. The trans is trying to pump more fluid than those lines really can handle.
If I was to toss a bunch of money at it, I would put a plate and fin style with an active fan, but on the cradle like I have mine. It just makes life so much better and I don't have to disconnect the trans lines to drop the cradle.
I am finally getting around to paying attention to the interior and trying to clean out 30 years of grime. I pressure washed the seats, carpets, and the trunk carpets. They were all pretty nasty. I am going to need to get something more powerful like some simple green after the trunk carpet to get all of the oil stains out. I think on my passenger carpet it had sodas spilled on it, luckily it just looked gross and came out pretty easy.
Sorry to have missed your post. So far I am very happy with the performance. I completed over 200 miles in the car a few weeks ago. In the Texas 100*+ heat, the highest I observed was 215*. This is well within the safe range for this transmission. It really depends on your level of comfort. It won't stay at 180* when it is 100+ outside. I did hard twisties runs and never found anything to be worried about. If you want it to cool more, there are larger heatsink coolers you can get or dual heatsink coolers.
If you choose to stick with the radiator pass through it will come up to temp faster, which is a good thing, I would recommend replacing the stock lines. They are smaller than the 4T65E-HD lines and creates a pressurized situation that I think poses a problem. It is why TXGood had the AC style clamped lines made for his. The trans is trying to pump more fluid than those lines really can handle.
If I was to toss a bunch of money at it, I would put a plate and fin style with an active fan, but on the cradle like I have mine. It just makes life so much better and I don't have to disconnect the trans lines to drop the cradle.
As for the trans cooler in the radiator. As you pointed out the Fieros lines are 5/16" while the 4T65eHD uses 1/8" lines. Thats roughtly a .0650 difference in OD. Sixty thousandths is not really that big but I will concede that it impedes flow a bit. I am concerned when I run much over 185* trans temps. On my swap I used #6AN to 1/2-20 male adapters for the radiator, then used a #6 90* AN bend #6 SS braided hose to a 3/8" hard tube coupling and ran the 3/8" pipe all the way to the transmission. Only see temps over 180*F up a steep hill or under WOT conditions. A trans temp of 215*F is not to my liking as I believe that it will greatly shorten trans life but only a transmission man knows for sure.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
As for the trans cooler in the radiator. As you pointed out the Fieros lines are 5/16" while the 4T65eHD uses 1/8" lines. Thats roughtly a .0650 difference in OD. Sixty thousandths is not really that big but I will concede that it impedes flow a bit. I am concerned when I run much over 185* trans temps. On my swap I used #6AN to 1/2-20 male adapters for the radiator, then used a #6 90* AN bend #6 SS braided hose to a 3/8" hard tube coupling and ran the 3/8" pipe all the way to the transmission. Only see temps over 180*F up a steep hill or under WOT conditions. A trans temp of 215*F is not to my liking as I believe that it will greatly shorten trans life but only a transmission man knows for sure.
Stock GTP's run in that range, so I am not too concerned about it. Running it warmer means that your fluid life is degraded, and should be changed more often.
>> TEMP vs MILES OF LIFETIME
> > 175º = 100,000 > > 195º = 50,000 > > 220º = 20,000 > > 240º = 10,000 Varnish Starts to Form > > 260º = 5,000 Seals start to harden > > 295º = 1,500 Plates start to slip > > 315º = Seals and Clutches Burn up and Carbon Forms.
Been awhile so here is an update. I did eventually decide to change out the trans cooler, at least for piece of mind. I installed a Hayden 526 cooler with a fan and I installed a temp probe in the radiator to control the fan. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-526
I also decided to pull the whole thing out and go crazier with it. I have been slower with the work than I wanted but it has just been too cold to go out in the garage and work. So for this round here is what I am working on
It is a lot of work to take on. While doing the valve springs, my air hold tool did not pressurize one of the cylinders properly, so off cam the heads and I decided to just change the springs on the bench, which is always just easier. Cam install went fairly smooth. I went with the thick front cover gasket and machined oil pump cover. Eventually I will move it down to a 2.8 pulley and retune but for now I want to shake the car down at 3.1 and make sure it is solid before going for broke. At this point I am almost ready to put the engine back in and start plumbing the heat exchanger lines. First there are a few improvements I want to make to my wiring harness.
The Milzey Motorsport valve spring compressor is a lifesaver. I used to use this same style on LS motors and I swear by them. They are expensive but the speed at which you can work is incredible. I had both heads springs changed out in about an hour.
This is about the time I started cursing loudly.
Before the cam install: [img]<img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4750/24952301567_150e353fae_b.jpg">[/img]
