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LFX 3.6/F23 option by mender
Started on: 02-23-2016 09:21 PM
Replies: 128 (8684 views)
Last post by: mender on 04-11-2020 01:59 AM
mender
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Report this Post02-27-2016 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fabbed the upper bracket this aft


Notched the top of the bellhousing to allow use of the LFX mounting bolt hole by the thermostat housing.

For those who don't like to check their oil, have a look at that piston and rod.

[This message has been edited by mender (edited 02-27-2016).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post02-27-2016 08:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mender:

... As it turns out I have one of those sitting on my shop floor, the Q4 282 bellhousing is what started this whole thing.


However you decide to do this, please keep us posted.
The LY7 and 6T70(?) automatic used to be my "wet dream" swap, before I realized the LZ9 made almost as much power, and also came with a manual trans.
This, however, is a whole new ball game.

I wish you success.

Edit - we posted at about the same time. Looking good!
The piston... not so much.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 02-27-2016).]

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mender
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Report this Post02-27-2016 11:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Pretty sure I'll stick with the F23, easier to find low mileage spares.

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Report this Post02-28-2016 08:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Great job on making the bracket serve its purpose as well as look good doing it!
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mender
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Report this Post02-28-2016 12:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Great job on making the bracket serve its purpose as well as look good doing it!

Thanks!

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Report this Post03-06-2016 04:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bumpity?
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Report this Post03-08-2016 01:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'll try to get the lower bracket done soon, doing customer work really slows down personal projects.
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Report this Post03-08-2016 09:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
would you be willing to share dimensions for the brackets? if no, any plans to produce them? I may be interested if they are offered for sale.

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Report this Post03-16-2016 02:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't do many measurements when I fab something, mainly make it fit as I go but I could see about recording the numbers or making up some sets if people are interested.

Some clutch related numbers: the HTOB is about 1.90" inside the bellhousing when extended and 2.77 compressed. I measured my clutch combo with a new disc and a completely worn disc to see how much difference there is in finger height; 0.320". My target for the HTOB height when in contact of the fingers is about 2.45" to allow for wear.

Does anyone have an indication of the travel needed to disengage the clutch? 3/16" to 1/4" travel? I'll have about 1/2" available which I figure should be adequate.

[This message has been edited by mender (edited 03-16-2016).]

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Report this Post03-24-2016 01:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I can't imagine needing more than 1/2", hell, 1/4" is probably more than enough. but I don't have any hard numbers.
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Report this Post03-25-2016 09:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mender:
...
Does anyone have an indication of the travel needed to disengage the clutch? 3/16" to 1/4" travel? I'll have about 1/2" available which I figure should be adequate.


I don't have a concise answer, but I know the hydraulic release bearings can overextend, and come apart.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 03-25-2016).]

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Report this Post04-19-2016 06:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
How is this project coming?
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Report this Post04-20-2016 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Not much at the moment, it's springtime in Alberta and everyone wants their car worked on! Can't complain, I won't turn down work right now!

My stuff gets done last; frustrating because I have just about everything needed either sitting on the floor or a shelf.
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Report this Post04-20-2016 04:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for f85gtronSend a Private Message to f85gtronEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have the lower front bracket (starter side) if you need it. I've got a different casting so I can't use it, but it will work for yours. Pm if interested
Ron
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Report this Post04-20-2016 10:19 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mender:

Not much at the moment, it's springtime in Alberta and everyone wants their car worked on! Can't complain, I won't turn down work right now!

My stuff gets done last; frustrating because I have just about everything needed either sitting on the floor or a shelf.


I understand. Best of luck!
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Report this Post04-20-2016 01:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have an f23 with 2.2 ecotec in my fiero and the plunger rod on the f23 master has to move about an inch to fully disengage the clutch . I have no idea how much movement that gives inside at the HTOB .
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Report this Post06-21-2016 10:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
any updates here?

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"The day I tried to live, I stole a thousand beggars' change and gave it to the rich."
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post07-24-2016 10:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bumpity...
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Report this Post07-25-2016 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtjoeSend a Private Message to gtjoeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
looking at the pictures in this thread and looking around that lfx bellhousing pattern looks more like a ecotec patern than anything else (according to wiki the late model hfv6 shares ecotec bellhousing pattern)
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Report this Post07-25-2016 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gtjoe:

looking at the pictures in this thread and looking around that lfx bellhousing pattern looks more like a ecotec patern than anything else (according to wiki the late model hfv6 shares ecotec bellhousing pattern)



well, considering that's a HF V6 and an ecotech bell, wiki is wrong...


edited for correction... but wiki is still wrong...

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 07-26-2016).]

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Report this Post07-26-2016 07:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

well, considering that's a HF V6 and an ecotech bell, wiki is wrong...


It's actually a Q4 bellhousing:

 
quote
Originally posted by mender:

I'm in the process of putting an LFX (FWD) into my '87 and I've mated it to an F23 transaxle from a 2001 Cavalier with a 2.4 (Quad4 pattern). The bellhousing needs trimming just under the coolant manifold plus a bit of carving for starter nose clearance of the LFX starter. Some of the bolts line up, others need to be added but the dowels locate properly.



However, there are pics on page 1 of this thread showing the Ecotec and HFV6 patterns and they are definitely *NOT* the same. From the photos, it looks like this trick wouldn't work at all with Ecotec trans because the dowels don't line up. The feature that lets this work with the Q4 transmission is that the dowels line up.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 07-26-2016).]

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Report this Post07-26-2016 06:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


However, there are pics on page 1 of this thread showing the Ecotec and HFV6 patterns and they are definitely *NOT* the same. From the photos, it looks like this trick wouldn't work at all with Ecotec trans because the dowels don't line up. The feature that lets this work with the Q4 transmission is that the dowels line up.



whoops... thanks for the correction.
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Report this Post07-27-2016 10:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Will:


However, there are pics on page 1 of this thread showing the Ecotec and HFV6 patterns and they are definitely *NOT* the same. From the photos, it looks like this trick wouldn't work at all with Ecotec trans because the dowels don't line up. The feature that lets this work with the Q4 transmission is that the dowels line up.




on a side note, on another forum, someone said the 60v6 and Q4 dowel pins are the same distance apart, I understand the taller 60v6 bell would require substantial modification to fit as well, but it offers another possible starting point if that is true.
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mender
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Report this Post09-08-2016 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sorry for the long delay, it's been a very busy summer so no progress to report. Will likely get back at it this winter.
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Report this Post12-10-2016 10:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And it's another three months later, ten months total since the first bracket!

Finally got back to my stuff and fabbed the lower bracket, just need to post some pictures to prove it.

[This message has been edited by mender (edited 12-11-2016).]

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mender
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Report this Post01-03-2017 08:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The LFX engine and F23 trans are mated, the aluminum flywheel/six puck clutch/HD pressure plate ended up with the right stack height so no HTOB spacer needed. The complete assembly fully dressed (ps pump, alternator, starter, wiring harness, MAF, ECU; essentially ready to run) weighs 498 lbs without fluids.

Has anyone weighed the stock 2.8 and 282 in the same state?

[This message has been edited by mender (edited 01-03-2017).]

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Daryl M
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Report this Post01-03-2017 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Saab f40s seem pretty available and affordable, from the research I've done. I got mine in Riverside, CA for $350 at a junkyard. There are several listed on car-parts.com right now.
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mender
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Report this Post01-04-2017 01:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got my F23 for $95 Cdn, and I can use the stock Fiero axles.
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Report this Post01-04-2017 02:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is cheap. I'll bet an LSD for an F23 doesn't cost $1195 either.
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mender
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Report this Post01-04-2017 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Good price on the Saab F40 though, nice to have a bolt-in option! Thanks for the heads-up!
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Report this Post01-04-2017 04:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'd love to find a bargain on an LSD for an F40. Not sure it is worth $1200 to have one. I wonder if it is possible to takw an LSD from an F23 and fit it into an F40. Would make axle issues go away.

[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 01-04-2017).]

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Report this Post01-04-2017 07:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The only Quaife LSD I found listed for an f23 was for a Vauxhall 220 and it was 1166.00 .As far as I know , the F23 did not come from the factory with the LSD option .From info on the ecotec forum , the F35 5 speed was available from the factory on the supercharged Cobalt SS and Quaife LSD was an option on that car .I think people used to take that out of the F35 and put it in to the F23 . The F35 in the turbo Cobalt SS is not an option because it uses different axles, bigger diameter and differrent spline count .
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mender
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Report this Post01-05-2017 12:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for menderSend a Private Message to menderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OBX looks a little cheaper, any opinions on them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX...ential-/182215406944
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Report this Post01-05-2017 06:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do not know anything about them , but I am pretty sure they are all based on the Torsen design so they would have to be similar. Thats less than half price .
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Report this Post02-18-2017 04:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bumpity...
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Report this Post04-08-2017 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://pcmperformance.com/p...mming.html#SUPPORTED
These people may be able to provide a modified E39 from a 2012+ Camaro that would work. Also, don't give up on the Saab F40S. I found a good one at a junkyard for $350.
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Report this Post04-08-2017 10:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for that info!

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:
... Also, don't give up on the Saab F40S. I found a good one at a junkyard for $350.


What about the flywheel? Those seemed to be really spendy. Unless you want to do a re-drill.
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Report this Post04-09-2017 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Daryl MSend a Private Message to Daryl MEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
http://www.phoenixfriction....28l-b284r-turbo.aspx

a billet flywheel is also available for about $450
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Report this Post04-09-2017 11:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
~$625 is kind of spendy, IMHO. But then it is the dual mass setup.

 
quote
Originally posted by Daryl M:

http://www.phoenixfriction....28l-b284r-turbo.aspx

a billet flywheel is also available for about $450


Who does the billet flywheel? LSC, perhaps?

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 04-09-2017).]

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