I have an 88 SE and am replacing the bushings in the rear lateral and trailing arm links. I was wondering what they are supposed to be torqued to when re-installing them?

I'm positive it'll be listed somewhere Here.

Yes it was Patrick, thanks for the search help, this is what I found....

Torque the following as indicated.
1. Front cradle bolts 67lbs-ft (90N.m)
2. Rear cradle nut 76lbs-ft (103N.m)
3. Engine mount assembly 38lbs-ft (54N.m)
4. Rear mount assembly 36lbs-ft (48N.m)
5. Front mount assembly 36lbs-ft (48N.m)
6. Rear lateral control arm at knuckle 37lbs-ft (50N.m) + 90degrees
7. Rear lateral control arm at cradle 41lbs-ft (55N.m) + 105degrees
8. Fixed adjusting link at knuckle 37lbs-ft (50N.m) + 90degrees
9. Fixed adjusting link at cradle 41lbs-ft (55N.m) + 105degrees
10. Trailing arm to cradle 37lbs-ft (51N.m) + 80degrees
11. Trailing arm to knuckle 44lbs-ft (60N.m) + 90degrees
12. Stabilizer bar bracket mounting bolts 18lbs-ft (25N.m)
13. Exhaust pipe bolts at manifold 18lbs-ft (25N.m)

Although I thought I had double-checked everything after I had the cradle tipped to replace the clutch, the first time I autocrossed my Formula shortly thereafter I almost put it into the fence. Turned out the following was loose on the driver's side. Made the car act very squirrelly when quickly changing directions!

quote Originally posted by deanearl: Trailing arm to knuckle 44lbs-ft (60N.m) + 90degrees

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 05-24-2016).]

Patrick, do you suggest to re-torque things once they have been driven a little bit or just after it has been set back down on suspension?

quote Originally posted by deanearl: Patrick, do you suggest to re-torque things once they have been driven a little bit or just after it has been set back down on suspension?

I should make it absolutely clear that in the case of my Formula, the trailing arm to knuckle bolt didn't work its way loose. There were three of us working on the car getting it put back together after tipping the cradle to replace the clutch (among other things). It was ultimately my responsibility to double-check everything... but somehow that one one bolt got missed.

To answer your question (not that I'm any expert), I don't think it would be necessary to re-torque any of these suspension fasteners after a short bit of driving as long as they've been torqued correctly in the first place.

Note that Torque Spec are for Clean Dry parts.
Lube them and torque values can and will strip or break things now or down the road. Anti-seize and loctite will act as lube too.

------------------
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Thanks for the input guys, good information to keep in mind.