I bought the car with severe clutch slip. The flywheel is burned blue and has chatter marks all over it just thought with replacing all the other components i would replace the flywheel as well.
I'm with Patrick on this. Since new flywheels aren't readily available, your best bet would be to resurface your existing flywheel (and shim it, if necessary).
AFAIK, you can use an 88 flywheel on 'older' engines but they are heavier by 3 lbs and that's why 88's make slightly less hp... The issue is with pre-88's the rotating assembly gets balanced by adding weight to the flywheel (externally balanced). 88+ engines have all their internal rotating assembly components balanced already (crank, rods, pistons). If you rebuilt your engine and had it fully balanced, you can use the 88 flywheel no problem.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 08-02-2016).]
FWIW I had planned to replace the flywheel on my 84 with 165k miles when I did my engine swap, but too my surprise a bit of wire brush action and some 1000 grit sand paper, made my flywheel look like new.
165k miles... too my surprise a bit of wire brush action and some 1000 grit sand paper, made my flywheel look like new.
That may have made the flywheel look all nice and shiny, but I doubt very much you removed any high spots. Your flywheel wouldn't have been completely flat. IMO it's a big mistake not to resurface a flywheel when replacing the clutch disc.
Watch the video below and notice how the flywheel surface doesn't get cleaned up all at once. It takes awhile to remove areas of the flywheel which haven't been worn down (as much) by the clutch disc.
I had a burned flywheel turned once, I had myself convinced that the hot spots would be too deep and result in a resurfaced product that wasn't thick enough. I turned out to be quite wrong and was very happy with the results from the machine shop. Secondly, most clutches demand a new or resurfaced flywheel or else the warranty is voided in the event of clutch failure.
