I've searched the archives but haven't found a definitive answer to this question.. Has anyone made a chart that can be referenced to show how much drop you get by cutting a particular amount coils off the springs?
I've not found one, but compiling individual results should be pretty easy. Otherwise, search your desired drop height and see how many coils were cut to achieve similar results, while factoring in other variables (engine swaps, mainly).
Has anyone made a chart that can be referenced to show how much drop you get by cutting a particular amount coils off the springs?
Part of the challenge is that we're not dealing with one length and stiffness of spring. There were a whole bunch of different front and rear springs produced for the Fiero from '84-'88.
Originally posted by Patrick: Part of the challenge is that we're not dealing with one length and stiffness of spring. There were a whole bunch of different front and rear springs produced for the Fiero from '84-'88.
Yup. Springs may look the same but Small changes will effect how stiff springs are. Most OE springs for Fiero are Progressive Springs make them harder to see differences in spring design.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I have thought about doing this a few times on different vehicles but could never could pull the trigger. I believe its just better to go buy a spring that designed to be lower from the start. The time and effort involved in cutting springs and making sure they are all the same ride height (not guaranteed) is just to much.
[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 09-30-2016).]
I tried Eibachs on the front of my 86 that seemed to drop the front end 2" which was too low even with the bump stop trimmed. The front end road rough not because of the shorter spring but because of the shorter travel the shock had to dampen jounce. Old bushings probably contributed to the lower ride height, given the improvement noted a few years later when they were replaced, however by this time I had removed the Eibachs and reinstalled the stock springs with about half a coil cut off, which was easy to do with a saws all.
An important note that often goes unmentioned is the effect that non stock heavier, wider wheels and tires will have. Aftermarket parts like this are usually designed around stock equipment. Removing half a coil put my car at just the right height with the 18x8, 225/40s (nearly 1" taller than stock or .5" above and below) on the front and the harsh jounce disappeared compared to what I experienced with the Eibachs. Since the wheel assembly weight increased by 20 lbs ea, the reduced shock travel deficiency was magnified as the stock shocks now had less travel distance to try and control a wheel assembly that was 20 lbs heavier. A bump in the road had no problem accelerating the tire upward, the shocks on the other hand didn't stand a chance.
Now the only problem I have is getting used to the reduced performance that resulted from the considerable increase in wheel size. My very first mileage test on my 3900 swap with 15" wheels netted 30 mpg round trip at an exit 30 miles away and a start, end point at the same gas station about 100 yards from the interstate. Now I get about 27-28. The wheel wt makes a difference. Keep these things in mind when modifying suspension and related parts.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 09-30-2016).]
Thanks to everyone for giving their advice,it's truly appreciated... Unfortunately,I'm not the government so i don't have endless supplies of cash laying around that I can throw at a problem,so new springs and hardware are not an option at this point. Cutting the stock springs will be the route I take at this point. I have increased to a 16" wheel and will stay with this size,while I did increase weight and mass,it isn't as dramatic as going with an 18".
I'm confused about having to cut and shorten the spring tower......can someone explain this? Why can't you just cut coils from the top of the spring and call it a day?
Both of my cars ride on cut springs. It's not a bad thing if you don't get carried away. I would recommend not cutting more than 1 coil. 1.25 max, in certain circumstances. You will need to shorten the bump stops as well. My car (an 88 Formula) rides on 86 GT springs in the front, cut by 1.25 coils; and 88 Formula front springs in the rear, cut by 1 coil. (The rear also required sleeves to be added, in order to keep the spring centered.) I cut the front bump stops and flipped the rear strut plates to allow for increased travel. The car rides as well as it ever did, and corners nicely.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-30-2016).]
Thanks to everyone for giving their advice,it's truly appreciated... Unfortunately,I'm not the government so i don't have endless supplies of cash laying around that I can throw at a problem,so new springs and hardware are not an option at this point. Cutting the stock springs will be the route I take at this point. I have increased to a 16" wheel and will stay with this size,while I did increase weight and mass,it isn't as dramatic as going with an 18".
I'm confused about having to cut and shorten the spring tower......can someone explain this? Why can't you just cut coils from the top of the spring and call it a day?
If you don't shorten the bump stop tower the suspension will hit the stop HARD! Mine it hard enough to knock the mirror off the windshield. Not hard to do when the spring is out, I just wrapped a piece of 3/4" masking tape around it and cut off both sides of the tape with a die grinder and cut off wheel. Then just weld the shortened section back on.
I'm confused about having to cut and shorten the spring tower......can someone explain this? Why can't you just cut coils from the top of the spring and call it a day?
Using lowering springs (or cutting the springs) reduces the suspension travel. If the front bump stops aren't shortened, the front suspension is basically non-functional. They're very simple to shorten on an '88, but it's a lot more involved to shorten the '84-'87 front bump stops.
The reason why 3/4" is the suggested maximum removed from the bump stops (which translates to about 1 1/2" of added travel at the wheel) is because any more removed from the bump stops would result in the front shocks bottoming out.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-01-2016).]
