My "purpose" in posting this is : It CAN be done ! So for everyone who was "putting off" Doing a "chop" Because of the COST of the side /door Glass, it involves TIME Not $$. Most people (myself included tried to make the "Glass fit the door", but then I made the "Door Fit the Glass" ! if any are interested I can post pictures. they FIT, they Work, and it's Not brain surgery LOL
1st The crash beam is removed (makes everything a lot easier to work on). then the Rear vertical "Track" needs to be "rounded" instead of straight (bends relatively easily)(brings the top of the Glass inward on it's way up). the "Beam" needs to be "Notched" at the rear 8-10 inches or so, to Clear the window lower rail when it goes up/down. Last, I made the Crash Beam to be a "Bolt In" instead of "welded", so if I need to get in there again it's a 5 minute deal. Hope this helps someone. it really bugged me that just because the price of windows so many of us wouldn't be doing a chop, so here's an "alternative method".
One observation, the angle of the A pillar gets changed during a chop. The stock glass will not line up and needs to be cut to match this news angle to fit correctly. Did you cut yours and how tight is the seal along the back edge near the top?
I am still confused here. Have you taken 3.75 inches out of the whole roof or just the back side? Geometry says that if you have take the 3.75 out of the whole roof the angle of the front window has to change. If you take it out of just the back then the top angle of the side window has to change. The last possible solution is to add length to the top and change the windshield height to keep the angles the same. I can tell you that my chop is not the same angle as my stock GT. I can get out a square and do the math to get the angles for you from my cars if you like, but in my cars there is no way the stock glass will work in the chop even if I could get it to curve and close up at the top.
3 3/4" is out of the rear pillars, the front was "slit" both at top of the windshield And at he bottom triangles, and the windshield "Laid Back" a little. This did move the" top" Back a little, but not enough worth mentioning. (the rear window "fits" as it should-Lexan) as you can see, the Glass DOES seal on the rubber gaskets. It just Worked Out fine. It was all done with a tape measure and a Sawzall, no slide rule or computer images. Everything Fits.
Ok so I broke out the square and did the math. We will use top of the door as a reference line. These measurements are done with a MK1 calibrated eye ball, so take them with a grain of salt. Looks like the stock window is right at a 33 Degree angle. The chop seems to be at a 33 degree angle or damn close, which is what you say for your car... Who knew.. well it seems you did . Maybe my Mk 1 eye ball is not so good at angles. Now a question for you.. Are you the guy who picked up a top from Straws to swap it into a chop top that had a sun roof? I am in Jacksonville and would love to stop by and see things.. and talk fieros.
"Are you the guy who picked up a top from Straws to swap it into a chop top that had a sun roof? I am in Jacksonville and would love to stop by and see things.. and talk Fieros." Yea, Guilty, I'm the guy. sure, stop by, I'm usually here and "awake" after 2PM LOL
I think this is similar to the method used on the testarossa kits, but they had less of a chop. Basically rotate the windshield, roof, and side window around the front corner (by the rear view mirror) to lower the upper rear portion of the top and upper corner of the rear glass. The limit to this is likely the width of the vertical window seal unless you want to rotate it slightly as well.
I have seen 2 different chops and they used 2 different side window designs that were different from the original glass. One out of Illinois, and one out of Texas.
------------------ 1988 GT, Automatic, running - bought in Illinois and drove to Austin 1986 SE, 4 cyl, 5 speed running - Bought in California and drove to Austin 1988 GT, T-Top - non running - "Trailered" back from California going to be restored (in storage) 1986 GT, highly modified engine/exhaust, but slave/clutch issue - Trailered back from Las Cruces, NM Chop-top candidate (in storage) 1986 SE, bought locally, Automatic won't shift into gear - Chop-top candidate (in storage) 6-11-2014 acquisition - 1987 GT Tangerine/Silver
I was think about this as well. What pound solenoid is needed? I thought I would by a fish weight scale to figure it out but if you know that would save me money.
quote
Originally posted by Lou6t4gto:
3 3/4" chop, No alterations to the Glass, OR it's lower track. still need to install the solenoid "door "Poppers".
I was think about this as well. What pound solenoid is needed? I thought I would by a fish weight scale to figure it out but if you know that would save me money.
AVS has a dual solenoid popper that claims to open any door. It is much quieter than a regular popper. I've just replaced mine to AVS solenoids to cut back on the noise. They are also really thin and fit better in tight spaces.
I used 60 pound solenoids. $25 each "complete kit" on ebay. couldn't work better. there IS a" Before and after", that thing that looks like it got dragged out of a swamp IS the Before picture, the rest are after. Not quite finished yet, too many projects.