So I finished my L67 swap. Everything seems fine but when I go to put it in drive it feels like I have a 4k stall converter and doesn't really go anywhere. It will but it seems that it's slipping very bad. The trans has 1k on the rebuild and ran in the 99 LS that i had the car in.
I've traced the 7 pin connector and everything seems to be right. I have not traced the other square connector to make sure they go to right pins on the PCM. On pin B I have 12 volts when the key is on "ON". It's going to the dark blue wire (E1?) on the C500.
I've also swapped out the actual trans selector with a spare that I had. Same thing.
Now you will ask who made the harness. A friend of mine and I did. Everything seems to be fine except this one code that keeps coming up and won't go away.
The fluid is fine/full too.
I've also swapped physical PCM's and did a full write with a 98GTP bin.
Hopefully, someone with more experience can chime in here, but... I assume you have the external prndl switch since you swapped it out quickly. Did you line up the dots to adjust its position when it was installed? The 4t65e atsg has a chart that will show which wires should have 12v applied depending on shifter position. I think there are 2 wires with 12v in overdrive. I'd double check that first myself. Congrats on being so close to complete with your swap.
[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 10-24-2016).]
Not sure about lining up the dots? I had to adjust the Fiero selector that goes onto the switch selector. Not sure on how to calibrate it? It goes into park, reverse, neutral, etc. fine.
And yeah I already swapped that selector switch out with another one I had from my other trans.
Not sure about lining up the dots? I had to adjust the Fiero selector that goes onto the switch selector. Not sure on how to calibrate it? It goes into park, reverse, neutral, etc. fine.
And yeah I already swapped that selector switch out with another one I had from my other trans.
It sure sounds like the PNDL1 switch isn't sending the right info. Some switches have slots that must line up. You place a 3/32' drill bit in the slot, align the rotor and the body slots, and tighten the switch in position. This way the PCM will know what gear you are in and will make proper adjustments accordingly.
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Thansk Dennis. What do you mean by putting a dill bit in the slot? On the actual switch itself? Where at? Do you have a picture or something I could reference?
I don't have a good pic of it, but if your reverse lights are on in reverse you are close, but not necessarily spot on. In fact, when I did my 4t60e I aligned it the correct way and it was still not quite where it should have been and I needed to use a meter to make sure the parity was correct. There is not a ton of room for adjustment, so if you feel like experimenting give it a nudge a little bit till it works, or get a meter and the atsg to find out which 4 wires to test and get it right the first time. I'm not familiar enough with the 65 to tell you exactly how it aligns, some use the 3/32 bit, some have a slot to line up across the switch and a special tool that you don't really need to have if you have good eyes. This is all under the lever that attaches to your shift cable. the nut and lever have to be removed to see the slots or holes.
Ok so I had a look tonight and messed with it some. Is the switch keyed in some fashion that it can only go one way on? I took off the switch and rotated the inside of the switch all the way to the left and then re-installed it. Driving it is still meh but 2nd gear seems to have more umph to it (only went around the block about 20-25 mph).
I'm still not sure what you guys mean about sticking a drill bit in there and aligning it.
The internal hub on the switch is keyed to fit the shaft. You want to loosen the mounting bolts and rotate the whole switch assembly, with the center hub in place, the switch assembly moves 1/4 inch or so, while the center hub stays stationary.
So why haven't you traced out the 4 pin connector?
The only wire that is used by the transmission range circuit in the larger plug is the ground wire (Pin D). All four of the other plug are used. Most likely one of those is in the incorrect hole.
The large Purple wire (Pin E) and large Yellow wire (Pin G) are a simple switch that prevents the starter from getting power unless the transmission is in park or N
The Dk. Blue (Pin B) and Lt Green (Pin F) are a simple switch that connects power to the wire that runs to the back up lights.
The code can't be set by a misaligned selector switch. It's a wiring or switch problem.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-25-2016).]
So why haven't you traced out the 4 pin connector?
The only wire that is used by the transmission range circuit in the larger plug is the ground wire (Pin D). All four of the other plug are used. Most likely one of those is in the incorrect hole.
The large Purple wire (Pin E) and large Yellow wire (Pin G) are a simple switch that prevents the starter from getting power unless the transmission is in park or N
The Dk. Blue (Pin B) and Lt Green (Pin F) are a simple switch that connects power to the wire that runs to the back up lights.
The code can't be set by a misaligned selector switch. It's a wiring or switch problem.
I was trying to avoid doing that. Granted it's only a few wires and theyr'e easily accessible I just hate wiring. My next step was to trace the wires to the PCM. I'm going to try to do that tonight.
The P0705 code is gone but the car is still stuck in 3rd gear no matter what I do. The guy who helped do the wiring brought his HPT over and even when he commands 1st or 2nd gear it won't go. I did verify the connections on the PCM and they're in the right slot.
Also we took a meter to the switch selector and we can hear it clicking when giving it power so it does work. Also verified the round trans connector has power so the trans gets power.
While trying to load a bin file on the car last night I noticed my MPH at idle/park is at 1.24 MPH. I know that should read zero but would that cause any issue with it not going into the correct gear?
Sucks that I spent 2 months on this and i'm at the VERY end of being able to enjoy this but I can't .
Do you have the yellow and purple of the VSS running to ONLY to the PCM? You can not have them run to the speedo also on a 4t65e.
No speed signal to the PCM will mean no shifting.
Scanning the pcm is the speed correct(ish)?
Right now the speedo isn't hooked up (the guage). We did verify that the speedo is reading MPH in the tuner when I drive it around the block. Just odd that it was showing 1.24 mph in park.
The VSS is the one plug by the diff right? I'm pretty sure both of them are going to the PCM. Where should they (or one of them) go?
Also. when my friend brought over his HPT, it was showing correctly on the scanner Park, reverse, Neutral, D4, D3, D2,.
[This message has been edited by Buck531 (edited 10-31-2016).]
Reverse lights are a simple switch in the two connector switch. On the big connector check to make sure you have power (key on) on the Dk Blue wire. Then using a thin wire bridge that Dk. Blue power wire to the Lt. Green wire. The Lt. Green wire runs to the back up lights. Check to see if the lights come on.
Be careful to not use probes or wires that are so large that they ream out the terminal and make it fit loose on the pins of the switch.
Also verify that the wires are in the right positions of the connector. Dk. Blue (power) should be on pin B. Lt. Green (to the back up lights) should be on pin F.
If it still doesn't work via the switch but it does with the jumper wire, take off the nut holding on shift selector, and unbolt the switch, Now with the key on and the switch plugged in rotate the switch and see if the reverse lights ever come on. If never you have a bad switch. If they do work now, check the alignment of the switch. Perhaps the switch is turning them on too early or too late in the rotation of the switch and you can adjust it to work correctly.
--------- What year is your transmission? Is your wiring for the year of your transmission? Is your PCM programmed for the correct year? 97 is different from 98-02. 03+ is different.
Do you have power on pin E of the round plug of the transmission?
Yes it could be PCM programming or a bad PCM or a bad transmission.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-31-2016).]
Reverse lights are a simple switch in the two connector switch. On the big connector check to make sure you have power (key on) on the Dk Blue wire. Then using a thin wire bridge that Dk. Blue power wire to the Lt. Green wire. The Lt. Green wire runs to the back up lights. Check to see if the lights come on.
Be careful to not use probes or wires that are so large that they ream out the terminal and make it fit loose on the pins of the switch.
Also verify that the wires are in the right positions of the connector. Dk. Blue (power) should be on pin B. Lt. Green (to the back up lights) should be on pin F.
If it still doesn't work via the switch but it does with the jumper wire, take off the nut holding on shift selector, and unbolt the switch, Now with the key on and the switch plugged in rotate the switch and see if the reverse lights ever come on. If never you have a bad switch. If they do work now, check the alignment of the switch. Perhaps the switch is turning them on too early or too late in the rotation of the switch and you can adjust it to work correctly.
--------- What year is your transmission? Is your wiring for the year of your transmission? Is your PCM programmed for the correct year? 97 is different from 98-02. 03+ is different.
Do you have power on pin E of the round plug of the transmission?
Yes it could be PCM programming or a bad PCM or a bad transmission.
The larger connector is wired just like the PDF from gm tuners you put above. Thats what I was going off of.
The trans is a 99 4t65E non HD trans (3.29 gears) out of a 99 Intrigue with a 3.5 DOHC motor. Yes, it worked perfectly in the Regal after the rebuild 1k miles ago. I took the harness from the same car and used it on this.
I've already did full flashes about 40 times this week from various bin files and can't use the actual bin file that was on the regal because.. well. it's a Regal LS and due to vats it won't start. So I'm using a 98 or even a 99 GTP bin file that I moved over my trans tables to the GTP bin. I'm using the same physical PCM too that was in the 99 Regal LS.
I'll check the wiring like you said above this weekend when I have some time. Thanks for the help. This is just driving me nuts.
What happens when you run it with the GTP bin including the trans tables. This is basally what everyone at least started from, but then they are mostly (all?) using the 4T65E that came with the 3800. Not sure if that makes a difference.
No power at the trans connector could be the problem.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-31-2016).]
I tried a stock GTP bin even keeping the stock trans tables and it did the same thing.
I know we verified power to the trans connector (round) on Sunday.
We also put power to the shift selector on each pin and you can hear the solenoid/shifter click so it's going through each gear.
This trans we put in I got from CL and affter a bunch of different tuning combos found that it was the one with 3.29's from the Intrigue (tag on the trans showed it) when I had it in the Regal. Using the same harness too.
[This message has been edited by Buck531 (edited 11-01-2016).]
Well I got the reverse lights to work. Apparently we had some green wire going to the C500 for the reverse lights. I had to add a pin B to the larger range selector plug.
I'm still messing with the reason why it's still staying in 3rd. I haven't gotten around to checking the reference table posted above. I only see the letter D (or P?) on the 4 pin connector.
Well I'm still messing with it. The reverse lights work. Now the P0705 came and it's still stuck in 3rd gear. I took pin 4 and 44 (shift solenoids) from the blue connector on the PCm and grounded each one and still won't go into 1st.
Getting pretty frustrated. I'm half tempted to get another harness and see if that works but if it doesn't I'm out $400 for nothing.
I hate to bring this back up again but it's still having issues. I got the p0705 fixed.
Now when I put the car into D it's in 3rd gear. If I put the gear shifter into 1st or 2nd I have 2nd gear. It does not go into 1st. It says 1 gear in the scan software (DHP) but when I go to drive it it will say 1st and then 2nd but I don't feel the shift. If I leave it in 2nd and go 25 mph or so I can put it into 3rd or Drive and I can feel it shift into 3rd.
I've traced every wire on the circle trans connector, the 4 pin and 7 pin connector and everything goes to the right spot.
Changed the shift selector as well (again). I can pull pin 4 and 44, the shift solenoids and ground each one and I can hear the solenoids clicking.
I'm not sure how to check the 4 pin connector for "ohming" or what not.That's where I get lost at wiring.
Is the shifter moving the rotating shaft all the way to 1st gear on the tranny? Remember there is one more notch on a 4T65E then there was on the Fiero automatic transmission. Most people just live with the fact that they can't manually shift the auto all the way to first gear. You will need to make modifications to the shifter if you wan to use it.
I emailed Dave (trannyman) from Triple Edge and he said that if the trans isn't getting power it would default to this mode that I'm currently in. In D or D3 it will default to 3rd gear and when in 1 or 2 it will default to 2nd gear. I put a meter on the pink wire (E) and I get 11.7 volts when the key is on. I followed that wire and it goes to K on the C203.
Still stumped on why the trans still doesn't have power when it clearly does when I put a meter to it.
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