I was wondering if anyone knows the glue used for 02 3800 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Bolt Glue. It is not like the usual thread sealant.

I also read that it was a plastic part to assist in installation can anyone verify that?

I've done a good number of GM rear main seals. The later models require removal of the flywheel due to them being mounted in a housing and being a full round seal rather than a half/ 2 piece type used on older engines. Some also require lowering the oil pan due to having guide/dowels on the seal housing.
The seals can normally be replaced with out removing the seal housing in the same type of procedure as replacing an axle seal. However it is good practice to remove the seal housing to also reseal. This also makes it easier to install the seal into the housing without the crankshaft in the way, while being laid flat on a work surface.
Some, but not all housings use a "mild" thread lock compound to keep the small bolts from backing out. If the holes are drilled through to the inside of the block, it is a good idea to apply thread sealant to keep the oil from seeping through the threads, but most are too shallow. Most of the housings use RTV between it and the block, but there are some that have a gasket. If they do the gasket should be included in the rear main seal kit. The only plastic piece that I know of would be a large round protector for the seal while being installed over the crankshaft. Most of the time it is not needed if you are careful installing the seal. Making sure the seal does not get pinched or folded over against the crankshaft.
On the oil pan. Most Buick engines will have 4 plastic pins(included with the gasket) to guide the oil pan while installing it that you can remove after installing all but 4 of the oil pan bolts. Do not use RTV on silicone type gaskets. (oil pan, valve cover, upper plenum) That will prevent them from making good sealing to the metal.

quote Originally posted by cmechmann: I've done a good number of GM rear main seals. The later models require removal of the flywheel due to them being mounted in a housing and being a full round seal rather than a half/ 2 piece type used on older engines. Some also require lowering the oil pan due to having guide/dowels on the seal housing. The seals can normally be replaced with out removing the seal housing in the same type of procedure as replacing an axle seal. However it is good practice to remove the seal housing to also reseal. This also makes it easier to install the seal into the housing without the crankshaft in the way, while being laid flat on a work surface. Some, but not all housings use a "mild" thread lock compound to keep the small bolts from backing out. If the holes are drilled through to the inside of the block, it is a good idea to apply thread sealant to keep the oil from seeping through the threads, but most are too shallow. Most of the housings use RTV between it and the block, but there are some that have a gasket. If they do the gasket should be included in the rear main seal kit. The only plastic piece that I know of would be a large round protector for the seal while being installed over the crankshaft. Most of the time it is not needed if you are careful installing the seal. Making sure the seal does not get pinched or folded over against the crankshaft. On the oil pan. Most Buick engines will have 4 plastic pins(included with the gasket) to guide the oil pan while installing it that you can remove after installing all but 4 of the oil pan bolts. Do not use RTV on silicone type gaskets. (oil pan, valve cover, upper plenum) That will prevent them from making good sealing to the metal.

Thanks for all the information!

I am going to try to get out to my shop and look at it and take a few pics. I have it tore down to the bare block and posted this off of memory from when I disassembled it 2-3 weeks ago. I took the bolts out and really never saw any thread seal like it. I think if I can get some pics it will be more clear. or may make more questions ha

My Build

Ok so last time I was at the shop I forgot to take pics. But I was able to remember this time.

I was thinking about it and this may have been done by a shop to stop any leaks? It may not have been stock. Any one ever seen this? this is for the HOUSING COVER for the main seal.

Those are rubber spacers that have disintegrated to the point that they look like they might have once been sealant.
Notice that the holes in the cover are really loose? They put those rubber bushings on there to hold it close to the right location while you fine tune the alignment.

Darth Fiero had a good post here about aligning the rear cover to the crank.

It is also important with this engine to know that there are 2 kind of seal. They originally came with a traditional rubber lip seal and then later changed to a Teflon seal that installs "backwards".

quote Originally posted by paulsobj: Ok so last time I was at the shop I forgot to take pics. But I was able to remember this time. I was thinking about it and this may have been done by a shop to stop any leaks? It may not have been stock. Any one ever seen this? this is for the HOUSING COVER for the main seal.

I just went thru this the other day and was wondering what that stuff was and where do I get replacement sealant. For now I just put rtv on the bolts and hope it works.

I honestly don't know what that plastic looking "insert" is on the bolts you pictured. It might have been some sort of plastic guide that helped align the rear seal housing at the factory that has simply deteriorated over time. I don't think it was a sealant for the bolts.

When I replace a rear seal housing gasket, I clean off all of these bolts and reinstall them with blue loctite and torque to factory specs. I have never used sealer on the bolt threads because it isn't necessary - and I've never had a problem. Just make sure the rear seal housing is installed properly on the block so you can lay a straightedge across the seal housing to each side of the block and everything is aligned properly (for proper oil pan sealing). Also make sure you install the rear seal housing gasket correctly - it can go on two ways, one was is wrong - and it will leak oil if you install it the wrong way.

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