So I am currently in the process of replacing the A/C Compressor and associated components, and with several hours of searching on the forum and good ol google I have yet to find anything related to how to remove the compressor itself. I understand that the task itself can be a pain and that there are several obstacles in the way. Does anyone know of any links or possible forums that I may have missed regarding the removal of the compressor? Thanks in advanced!

Pulling the compressor is relatively straightforward.
Access isn't that difficult, and the fasteners are all visible.
Just get under the car and do it!

Now, replacing the front bank exhaust header or the coolant crossover tube is a bit more challenging.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 04-05-2017).]

I can see the fasteners and or brackets, but it almost looks like you need to either remove or somehow move the exhaust in order to get the compressor out. I hope that isn't the case in this scenario...

If you have a cat it can be a bit tight.

Fortunately the original cat was replaced with a high flow cat which is about 1/4 of the size. So that is a plus there. Ive got the Compressor almost out, all I have left is the swing bolts. but after seeing the compressor a little more closely I am a bit concerned to the hose that connects to the back of the compressor. From the looks of it the end that bolts to the back of the compressor is much more flat than what I am normally used to. I would imagine that the seal(s) that connect to the hose to the compressor will be a specific right? (seems to be the case with any "small" project I do with this car)

I just replaced my compressor and accumulator/dryer last summer on my 88GT in my driveway. To give yourself some wiggle room remove the big heat shield. I also cleaned up some surface rust and repainted mine. You can also disconnect the few exhaust hanger springs to get some more space to drop/install the compressor.

I cant remember if the 88 (HR6/DA6?) compressor will fit earlier models but I bought mine at AutoZone while they were having a special. The parts came with a thick washer seal kit that has 4 or 5 different ones that will fit various applications. When you look at the A/C hose as it connects up you'll see a staggered fitting. Match up the proper sized washer seals to fit. I lost a couple pounds of R-134 because I fitted the wrong seals.

All in (doing the labor/recharge myself) it only cost about $210 after a $50 mail-in rebate. It's been running great for a year now. Ice cold.

P.S. it's almost mandatory to replace your accumulator at this point.

Ha ha, yep! I did the same thing with the heat shield. There was no way I was going to get the ratchet in there with that thing in the way. It took a bit of wiggling to get the compressor out from between the back firewall and the exhaust pipe but its finally out, thank heavens that old clunker of a CAT is gone, wouldn't know how to get the compressor out with that hunk of junk in the way.

I did find another forum that swapped out the DA6 with the HR6 and from what everyone else was suggesting the HR6 was the best replacement compared to the DA6, they also included a write up with how to get the pigtails wired up to correctly utilize the new high and low pressure switches. I wish I was as lucky as you with the specials. So far with the compressor, dryer, a few extra seals (just in case) PAG150, and the new low/high pressure switches (old ones were just destroyed from old age) im in it for a little over $375. I can see now that the new compressor also has the staggered ports, I was a little worried about that. Im so used to the AC hose ends fitting into the ports much like newer vehicles instead of being flush.

So let me ask you this KMFDMFAN, when you charged up the system how much of the R134a did you use to properly fill the system? I looked up the specs but its all referencing the old R12, other forums mention a "best guess" to how much R134a is needed but its somewhat vague. From what I understand there is some method to measure the differences in the Freon due to R134a being a higher pressure than the R12.

Just curious, why did you buy PAG? If you are not fully flushing the system, ester is what you should use from everything I've read.

I put in 32 ounces. I used cans and a digital scale to ensure I put that much in. I have empty cans so I know how much they weigh already. Keep in mind whatever hoses you are using will have a little in them.

32 is about perfect.

quote Originally posted by RyuKyu567: when you charged up the system how much of the R134a did you use to properly fill the system? I looked up the specs but its all referencing the old R12, other forums mention a "best guess" to how much R134a is needed but its somewhat vague. From what I understand there is some method to measure the differences in the Freon due to R134a being a higher pressure than the R12.

Ryu,

I don't recall off hand the actual ounces needed but R134 is about 80% the R12 amount. I think it took about 22 ounces (about 2 cans) of the inexpensive Walmart Freon.

Another thing to note... I didn't evacuate the system. It had leaked out long ago but I did flush the A/C lines front to back while I had the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube hose section out. Can't remember the brand of flush but it was the "environment safe" stuff in an aerosol can. Kinda smelled like Goo-Gone.

After that I blew the lines out with a small compressor and hose (thanks ignorant neighbor [I'll have to explain that later]) until they were dry. Also I waited til the last minute before taking the plastic seals off the accumulator then installing so the system was only open to the elements for a few monutes. The accumulator/dryer has a hydroscopic material like desiccant that absorbs moisture. It's humid here on the coast.

Once I was confident everything was buttoned up I cranked her up and ran the A/C to suck in the R134. I used the wife's meat thermometer in the central vent until the temp was about 40-ish.

I would still rather take it to an A/C shop and have them vacuum and recharge officially. I think that way the system would be that much more efficient.

[This message has been edited by KMFDMFAN (edited 04-06-2017).]

wgpierce,

You are correct about the ester oil, I read that previously and it didn't click. So here is another question, the new compressor according to the label already had 3oz of oil in it. If I had to take a guess it will be the PAG oil... no where does it state what type. Based off of what I also read that the mineral oil and PAG oil do not mix well with each other which is a main concern of mine. Not sure if I stated before but the system was converted over to R134a before the car was in my possession, therefore I cannot confirm that the A/C system was correctly converted to begin with.

With that being said, does anyone think that with the oil currently in the compressor will make an impact with what could possibly be left in the system? It was my intent to flush the lines however I do know that the condenser and the evaporator could be original and there is no way to flush those 2 items.

[This message has been edited by RyuKyu567 (edited 04-10-2017).]