Yes, I'm using the right term, the clutch is stuck in an engaged position, it won't contact the flywheel. The car has been sitting since last fall and when I went to move it into the garage I cannot get to clutch to disengage and move the car. The transmission does shift into gear, the issue seems to be specific to the clutch itself. It's a 85 2.8 GT
Any thoughts? Obviously I can tear it down and see if somehow it's rusted into an engaged position (throwout bearing maybe?) but most things I can think of would cause the car to stay disengaged, not engaged and I really don't want to tear into it to get it into the garage (to tear it down) if I can help it.
Using a helper or a long stick, push the pedal in and out while watching the arm move on the transmission. If you can, measure the travel. Look to see if the arm on the trans is moving with the slave cylinder and not getting left behind.
For testing you could completely remove the slave cylinder. That would eliminate it as the cause. if you take it off and the arm doesn't just flop around then you know that the throw-out is all the way retracted and it should be engaging(making the car move).
I had this exact thing happen when I first bought my car (started suddenly while going down the freeway), and it turned out to be a worn out clutch.
Also I think your engage/disengage terms are flipped.
Yes, I'm using the right term, the clutch is stuck in an engaged position, it won't contact the flywheel.
If the clutch is engaged, then the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel are all making contact... so what you're saying is a little confusing.
Do you simply have a problem with the hydraulic system not moving the clutch arm enough to disengage the clutch (which is not an uncommon issue)... or has your clutch disc perhaps rusted to your pressure plate and flywheel?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-24-2017).]
Engaged means "Engaged with the flywheel and pressure plate". Disengagement is when the clutch cannot make contact with the flywheel or pressure plate and will not transmit engine power to the drive train.
If the transmission will shift into gear while the engine is running, then there is either a broken transmission or there is disengagement of the clutch plate. Because the car has been sitting for a year with the clutch 'engaged' that's likely the position it's currently in.
Other areas that could be the cause would most likely be the slave cylinder piston is rusted into position, or has stuck in the bore. If the clutch pedal springs back up into position, using an assistant, verify that the slave pushrod and clutch release arm are moving when the pedal is depressed. Then we can go from there.
Edit: In again after Patrick.
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 04-24-2017).]
Ive had the clutch fork itself break apart. There are 2 types. Earlier one is welded up from a bunch of little parts and they often fail. The newer one is a solid one piece. You used to be able to buy a kit that had a replacement one piece along with a new pivot shaft which had to be replaced with it because of different size.
Digging in (now that it wasn't raining for long enough) I'll bet it's the slave. The rubber is half gone and the shaft under it is rusted badly. It will move but only under force, time to replace
...which is often the culprit when the clutch won't disengage.
Maybe you can now see why your first post made no sense to any of us.
Fair enough, I know it's one that people usually get wrong and it would seem I went from wrong to right to wrong again in my head (it's not 'A' so 'B' but not 'B'). The issue is the clutch won't grab the flywheel
Remove the slave completely and try to pull the arm on the transmission towards the driver side. Then try starting the car in gear and see if it jumps forward. If it starts and doesn't jump forward then the problem requires transmission removal.
Did you park it with a prop rod holding down the clutch pedal? If so, then maybe your clutch slave cylinder rusted in place.
Thankfully no, left it in gear so it wouldn't roll since the parking brake doesn't currently work. That's a big part of why I'm so baffled by this. The pedal was VERY stiff when I went to start it, I'm guessing the slave is stuck at full extension. I measured the clutch pedal itself and it's not bent, read a lot about that joy online before posting
[This message has been edited by Pancake (edited 04-28-2017).]
Originally posted by Pancake: The pedal was VERY stiff when I went to start it, I'm guessing the slave is stuck at full extension. I measured the clutch pedal itself and it's not bent, read a lot about that joy online before posting
Based on this, I would say the slave bore rusted up while sitting, when you pressed the clutch, it took extra effort to push the piston over the rusted area to release the clutch, now the piston is jammed in the extended position due to the rust in the bore.
Remove the slave completely and try to pull the arm on the transmission towards the driver side. Then try starting the car in gear and see if it jumps forward. If it starts and doesn't jump forward then the problem requires transmission removal.
We've got a winner (all 3 of the last posts). Pulled the slave and the clutch happly reengaged. Of course the rusted rod also fell out of the slave. At least it's a very simple fix (give or take bleeding)
[This message has been edited by Pancake (edited 04-30-2017).]
Compared to the other things that could have caused this problem, the slave cylinder is a very easy fix. Since you're buying a new slave cylinder, this would be a good time to get an aluminum one from Rodney Dickman. You'll never have to worry about rust again. Plus, Rodney's slave cylinder has a double seal on the piston. So it's much less likely to leak.
