The MMO directions say to add a quart to the oil. Since I still use 5w30 on my '86 GT, do I have to be concerned that the overall viscosity in the crankcase will be a problem?
Thanks!
bb
I love in Ventura, CA where the weather is in the 70s now, if that is another variable.
b

You can't go wrong running the Mystery oil.......will keep that engine clean inside,help stop sticking rings,help eliminate carbon build up......etc.
The only thing I would do differently is only use half a quart .

quote Originally posted by Bruce: The MMO directions say to add a quart to the oil...

Is this for a "flush" prior to changing the oil... or do you plan to leave it in there?

Seafoam has always been my "go to" for stuff like this.

I used MMO and left it in after an oil change. I used to add a bit to the gas periodically.

I use 8 oz per oil change in my diesel truck to keep the fuel injectors from sticking, but that's in 15 qts. I have also used it in the gas and oil of all of my small engines and tractors for years. Keeps stuff clean and carbs happy.

Patrick,
I was going to leave it in with the fresh oil.
b

quote Originally posted by Bruce: The MMO directions say to add a quart to the oil. Since I still use 5w30 on my '86 GT, do I have to be concerned that the overall viscosity in the crankcase will be a problem?

quote Originally posted by Bruce: I was going to leave it in with the fresh oil.

You don't plan to "add a quart" of this MMO to an already full crankcase, do you?

MMO, from what I understand, is rather watery. In my opinion, you're running rather thin oil as it is. Personally, I wouldn't add a whole quart of MMO... but if I did, I'd at least be running 10w-40 oil.

quote Originally posted by Bruce: I love in Ventura, CA...

Get it where you can.

He IS running thin oil right now and that's why I suggested only half a quart....
I second your opinion Patrick...I just noticed that he is in California and I'm betting it can get rather hot there....I would change to 10w-40 during the summer.
And yes,MMO is rather thin......it's designed to act as a cleaner more than a lubricant.

[This message has been edited by MadProfessor8138 (edited 04-26-2017).]

I live in Ventura, but sometimes I get lucky.
I'll be changing the oil, then adding the MMO. Where I live, the weather rarely gets above the mid to high 70s.
Thanks!
bb

Run some MMO before you change that oil.......get some of the crud out of your engine with that oil and filter change.....

quote Originally posted by Bruce: I live in Ventura... the weather rarely gets above the mid to high 70s.

That's rather surprising! Is it because a west-wind is blowing off the water all the time?

quote Originally posted by MadProfessor8138: Run some MMO before you change that oil.......get some of the crud out of your engine with that oil and filter change.....

I agree, if the purpose is to clean out sludge put a "cleaner" in and run it before the oil change to get some out.

In the duke 8 oz
in the 2.8 1/2 qt.. per oil change..
1/2 cap full per full tank.. (10 gallons)

My 355 v8 gets 1 qt (6 qt pan + 1 qt filter) and 1 cap full in tank (22 gal) has since I installed it, 880000 miles ago..
Still has 175 psi compression dry and wet.. no valve seal puff at start up.. and no worn guides
5-30 oil..

[This message has been edited by E.Furgal (edited 04-29-2017).]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by E.Furgal:

In the duke 8 oz
in the 2.8 1/2 qt.. per oil change..
1/2 cap full per full tank.. (10 gallons)

My 355 v8 gets 1 qt (6 qt pan + 1 qt filter) and 1 cap full in tank (22 gal) has since I installed it, 880000 miles ago..
Still has 175 psi compression dry and wet.. no valve seal puff at start up.. and no worn guides
5-30 oil..


880 thousand miles. Wow

[This message has been edited by notwohorns (edited 04-29-2017).]

quote Originally posted by notwohorns: [QUOTE]Originally posted by E.Furgal: In the duke 8 oz in the 2.8 1/2 qt.. per oil change.. 1/2 cap full per full tank.. (10 gallons) My 355 v8 gets 1 qt (6 qt pan + 1 qt filter) and 1 cap full in tank (22 gal) has since I installed it, 880000 miles ago.. Still has 175 psi compression dry and wet.. no valve seal puff at start up.. and no worn guides 5-30 oil.. 880 thousand miles. Wow

Now if I could get the tie rods and ball joints to last as long

i lived in ventura CA an i used to run MMO in my 1965 corvair 140 hp , an so did my dad in his built corvair sandrail , it kept lifters from taping an keep my oil clean an kept the pushrod O ring seals nice an soft
so they didnt leak plus i ran it in my BRAND NEW FIERO gt back n the day while it was under wanty

Thanks; I'm changing the oil today.
b

Added a pint (of MMO, that is) yesterday. RPMs are down and the engine runs much smoother.
Thanks, guys!
bb

quote According to an NTSB post aircraft accident investigation published in 2003, a Marvel Mystery Oil sample tested was composed of 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard.

Now you can make your own "mystery oil".

BTW, stoddard solvent is commonly known as mineral spirits.

Did the oil change with 8 oz. of MM - not a lick of smoke. I guess I have a really good 2.8.
b

quote Originally posted by Bruce: ...not a lick of smoke. I guess I have a really good 2.8

Bruce, are you suggesting that "smoke" is a common issue with Fiero 2.8 engines?

The plus side is that engines aren't like electrical systems.....
The 2.8 may puff some smoke from time to time but it will keep chugging along pretty well content with itself....
But electrical components run on magic smoke and you shouldn't ever let it out because when you do..... they dont run anymore....lol

In my best Forrest Gump voice......"And that's about all I got to say about thaaaaaaat"

[This message has been edited by MadProfessor8138 (edited 05-15-2017).]

I had read that sometimes the MM oil treatment causes a release of carbon build up in the form of black smoke.

You may get some smoke as the miles add up......it takes time for the MMO to start breaking down all of the crud in the engine.