The FSM shows there should be 500 to 1500 ohms between the pickup coil terminals.
I'm not getting any reading on any scale, so I guess the circuit is open.

Other distributor pics I've seen have legs sticking up; the pic shown above was a 2011 dealer replacement.
It looks like the Rock Auto pic for an AC Delco distributor 88864747.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/...ion,distributor,7108

Is the pickup coil different from stock? Can it be removed by removing the 3 screws on the top ring?

You need to dis-assemble the stock distributor to replace the pickup coil: I don't think that the newer (Cardone) design is any different.....but what do you have to loose?

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 04-29-2017).]

Correct. All have to be disassembled. Lay things out in order so thrust shims go back in the same place. It's actually an easy job.

In your same list from Rock Auto you might want to look at the Spectra Premium distributor. Though Rock doesn't show the insides, under the cap, I believe on that distributor that you can change the pickup coil without removing the distributor form the engine. I put one of those in a 2.8L a while back but don't have pictures handy right now that show the internals, maybe someone else can post a few. Otherwise go to the Spectra site as they may have photos. I do remember that the Spectra internals include a shield that completely covers the coil for heat protection that is easily removable (screws), also it came with the same ICM that all aftermarket distributors have, I swapped it for a AC Delco ICM. Additionally the Spectra is of a more modern design, sorta like the one in your photo above.

Not sure your looking to swap out your distributor at this time, but for those thinking about it the Spectra may be a good choice.

Been there, done that (with the Cardone distributer). You'll need to remove and disassemble the distributer.

The outer "star ring" is removable, but the inner is not. And that keeps the pickup coil from coming out the top.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Here's some more info:

Before I started to pull the distributor today, I checked the pickup coil again & got a steady 800 ohms resistance regardless of how I moved the wires around.
So I cleaned the pins from the ICM and squeezed the pin receptors in the connector for a little tighter fit and put everything back together.

The engine fired up as soon as the starter engaged; the usual cold start response. I let it idle until the rad fan started; when it went off I shut the engine off.
It started up again right away, then 20 minutes later, then an hour later and again 3 hours later. Maybe I've got a good connection now...

Background: The Formula's original (surprisingly very rusty) distributor was replaced in 2009 at 15,000 km (9,320 miles). This one has 18,300 km (11,370 miles) on it.

Twice in the last few weeks I drove somewhere and later got towed home. The first time, the spring loaded contact in the cap had fallen off.
It wouldn't start with a new cap and rotor until I fiddled with the pickup coil connector. Then it seemed fine.

The second time, no amount of manipulation of the connector helped, but it seemed ok later; starting and driving several times.
Yesterday it quit while running so I thought it might be more than the connection; maybe the pickup coil was done.
As noted in the original post, no continuity was found; today it seems ok.

I tried my new spare ICM and ignition coil after the first no-start to no avail. I've tested them before to ensure they're ok.

Always good to read the continuing story. Sounds like your distributor problems are on the mend. Congrats.

quote Originally posted by Kevin87FieroGT: Always good to read the continuing story. Sounds like your distributor problems are on the mend. Congrats.

Sadly, the story is continuing; the cause of the no-starts appears to be as yet undiscovered.

After a few weeks of occasional use (a couple of times a week) including two three hour drives with varying stop intervals and restarts all seemed well.

Then a 15 kilometer trip to a car show ended with a no-start after about 2 hours and a ride home. A few days later I was wondering if it might be an intermittent ECM connection.
Last Thursday evening, it didn't start in two tries. Recalling a GM service manager's "ECM screwdriver test" (whacking the ECM with a large screwdriver handle), I smacked the console by the ECM and it started.

Encouraged by the idea that a connection had been restored by the vibration from the smack, I went to a car show 50 kilometers away on Saturday, and... you guessed it... four hours later, no-start.
I removed the ECM at the show to unplug and plug in the connectors, including the two removeable ICs inside. An hour and a half of fiddling with things followed by a flat-bed ride home.

Later in the evening, there was no spark. Using the FSM procedures, the coil tested ok. Still no spark this afternoon so I started with the FSM trouble-shooting process.
The pick-up coil tested ok, and after I reassembled the distributor to check for spark again, the engine started immediately.

I'm suspicious of the pick-up coil, but I wonder how it can work fine for so long, stop working for a few days, then start working again.

Every time this comes up people have asked if you tach moves while attempting to start and if it doesn't it's a bad ICM.

quote Originally posted by wgpierce: Every time this comes up people have asked if you tach moves while attempting to start and if it doesn't it's a bad ICM.

....or pickup coil, or sheared distributor drive gear roll pin.

Yesterday I let it heat up until the fan came on and shut it off when the fan went off. It restarted right away, again an hour later and again two hours later.

Tonight I went for a 10 minute ride and it quit just as I backed it into the barn. It wouldn`t restart, so I tried a few tests.

The tach needle didn't move and the spark tester didn`t light up.

I have two coils and two ICMs that seem to work fine except when the engine won't start.

So far, the coils & pick-up coil test ok by the factory service manual procedures.

I'm trying to work through Chart C-4B (pg 6E3-C4-4 &5); next is step 3.

Sometimes when I go to work on it, it starts, so then I have to wait until it won't start again.

I had one like that on an 86- pickup coil would read open circuit, when hot. Super-frustrating.

quote Originally posted by KurtAKX: I had one like that on an 86- pickup coil would read open circuit, when hot. Super-frustrating.

I was helping a friend swap in a replacement 2.8 into his '88 GT.
Engine would run fine for exactly 10 minutes - then shut off.
Traced it down to bad pickup coil using an ohm meter.
Replaced that for him and never had a problem since. :-)

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