Use the technique outlines in the top video with the exception is that I have never had to remove the window guide. There is a way to get the window up high enough and back slightly with the guide still in place. Then you just reach under the glass with the small philips screwdriver and remove the last two screws that hold the dew wipe in place. Figure a minimum of two hours to get this done.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Use the technique outlines in the top video with the exception is that I have never had to remove the window guide. There is a way to get the window up high enough and back slightly with the guide still in place.
What is the way?
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 05-18-2017).]
With the stops removed, I've raised the window all the way up and have pushed it to the rear. That will expose th screws. Sometimes takes a few tries but it can be done. I find this easier than trying to remove the two hidden screws from the outside with the right angle phillips screw driver that was developed by Rodney. That way is still a good way to do it but I have not mastered the technique.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Using a box cutter, slice away the old dew wipe rubber. Remove the inner wipe. Loosen the inner felt pads. After lowering the window and removing the outer screws you can raise and tilt the window in slightly. Wood wedges used to square up new door and window frames can be used between Rodney's dew wipe tool and the window to exert force against the tool, keeping it engaged with the screw head. Protects the window and fits in there better than a finger. Place a magnetic pick-up tool below the screw being removed in case it falls.
My only regret is not replacing the two felt pads (the ones riveted to the wipe) at the same time. They still streak the window. Also, your new rivets (if you make your own wipes) are not flush like the original. So I drilled from the inside to allow for a hole for the rivet to sit in. It involves drilling two holes, inner and outer. Then the strip sits nice and flush. The holes are hidden by the inner panel.
Using a box cutter, slice away the old dew wipe rubber. Remove the inner wipe. Loosen the inner felt pads. After lowering the window and removing the outer screws you can raise and tilt the window in slightly. Wood wedges used to square up new door and window frames can be used between Rodney's dew wipe tool and the window to exert force against the tool, keeping it engaged with the screw head. Protects the window and fits in there better than a finger. Place a magnetic pick-up tool below the screw being removed in case it falls.
This method has worked for me on three cars (with the exception of the wood wedges - might need to try that). One thing I do upon reassembly for the middle screws (after raising the window to full height) is to push the screw through the sticky side of a length of masking tape. Then position it on Rodney's tool and tape it down securely around the back. This should hold it in place while you line up the screw with the hole. Once you get that first 1/4 turn to bite you should be able to just twist and pull the tool away and remove any remaining tape under the screw before tightening. Remember not to tighten any of the screws until you have them all started.
