I thought they were brake lines but I guess they are Automatic Transmission fluid lines...................they are on the driver side and they are leaking red fluid.
Are these easier than the brake lines? Any special tips? What size tubing if I want to do my own bending and flaring of copper nickel tubing?
Yeah, they are under pressure - the pump is forcing flow through the radiator. A "quickie" fix might cause total fluid loss and transmission failure and you won't even know when.
Not sure what year your car is and whether it is any different from an 88 or you'll find this useful but I'll share in case you do. I'm mostly done converting my Formula from auto to manual and had to remove the automatic lines in order to install the clutch line. A couple things I did that help me pull out the lines in one piece was I unbolted the emergency brake handle from the frame and then pushed it and the cable towards the rear allowing the cable to be longer outside the car and allowing me to pull the emergency cable out of the way, so I could get the automatic lines out in the back and I also then unbolted the the brake lines from the frame in the front, so that they would have enough movement in order to get the lines out in the front I already had the front tub out and front and rear wheel wells, I'm pretty sure they have to be removed, but maybe someone else can chime in.
[This message has been edited by Fiero Vampire (edited 05-17-2017).]
I need to do this task also. My transmission lines were cobbled up from straight tubing by a previous owner (*cough* Twin Lakes Fiero *cough*) and although they do not leak they do not utilize the factory attachment points and brackets. I think Bob kind of free-lanced them. I'm forever worried I will run over some obstruction on the road and snag one of the lines.
The Fiero Store sells pre-made stainless-steel tubing for these lines and I have bought a set but not installed them yet. My first impressions of them is that they are really nice! I should really motivate myself and install them...
I have installed a set of Fierostore stainless trans cooler lines and this is the way to go. For the time it takes to replace them why not do it right. Only minor problem I had was one connection at the radiator leaked when fluid was warm. Turned out that I didn't have the line pointing exactly staight into the fitting. The stainless is harder than the original steel and wouldn't compress to fudge in an off angle line
Yeah, they are under pressure - the pump is forcing flow through the radiator. A "quickie" fix might cause total fluid loss and transmission failure and you won't even know when.
It is an 88 GT. How much pressure are they under? If the quickie fix does not leak and can withstand the pressure I am at a loss of where the danger comes from. I bought a Compression fitting from PEPBOYS and it stated "not for brake lines" . It will do approx 200PSI.
What is the overall length of the lines front to back. I was planning on getting some copper nickel line and fabricating it myself. If my Trans lines are having issues my brake lines should not be too far behind.
I have installed a set of Fierostore stainless trans cooler lines and this is the way to go. For the time it takes to replace them why not do it right. Only minor problem I had was one connection at the radiator leaked when fluid was warm. Turned out that I didn't have the line pointing exactly staight into the fitting. The stainless is harder than the original steel and wouldn't compress to fudge in an off angle line
Transmission cooler lines on an 88 are a real PITA if you buy the preformed stainless lines. The stainless lines are very hard, and do not bend easily for tweaking to fit up to the radiator fittings. I've installed many sets on all years of Fieros, 88's are just a real joy. The easiest way to do it is to drop the front cradle out of the car. Using the soft roll tubing and forming your own lines does allow the job to be done without removing the front suspension crossmember. I should add that dropping the front crossmember on an 88 is a lot easier than on earlier models, although the engine cooling tubes do need to come off... Good luck!
Never replaced the trans lines but you can buy aluminum tubing from Summit that is easy to work with. Should hold trans cooler line pressures that are only about 20 psi. If you are concerned about aluminum vs steel; nearly all aftermarket trans coolers are made of aluminum tubing.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Originally posted by hcforde: It is an 88 GT. How much pressure are they under? If the quickie fix does not leak and can withstand the pressure I am at a loss of where the danger comes from. I bought a Compression fitting from PEPBOYS and it stated "not for brake lines" . It will do approx 200PSI.
What is the overall length of the lines front to back. I was planning on getting some copper nickel line and fabricating it myself. If my Trans lines are having issues my brake lines should not be too far behind.
Sorry but I have no idea how much exacly pressure there is on that line. I'm not sure that even anybody actually mesured that. I would "guess" it should be roughly around the same pressure as coolant pressure.
Are these under pressure? Can I just use a compression fitting temporarily?
I used compression fittings on the front and rear of my car. I used the stock transmission lines and when I added a cooler I used compression to AN fittings and used stainless braided from that to the cooler. The ones on the rear use compression to hydraulic lines.
Just for reference, the transmission cooler lines are not under high pressure. Transmission Internal line pressures can go as high as 200 psi but the trans cooler lines see no more than about 20PSI, but at a good flow rate. Compression fittings will work fine.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I agree with Dennis. In my shop, we had repaired many trans cooler lines by using compression fittings. Never had any problems. The pressure is not that high
Installed the Fiero store lines on an 88. Was a lot of work getting them to fit right and plug in to the radiator. Coined a few new curse words in the process.
Have installed the lines from the Fiero Store in a 86 SE, went well until got to the front and having to route in the original locations, made my wife take kids back into the house so they would not hear me use the choice words had for working on it. The lines were very difficult to bend to location, my solution was to cut the line, flare the end at the cut and use a piece of transmission pressure line to fit back together, that was 4 years ago. At the time did them did not have any leaks until was replacing the brackets holding the coolant lines in place and the rust was holding the lines together.
The easiest way to do it is to drop the front cradle out of the car.
I replaced all of my brake lines and trans cooler lines on my 88 with stainless reproductions from Inline Tube in Shelby Township, MI.
I would argue that there is an easier method than dropping the front cradle. If you have access to a lift and can get the car up in the air 6-7 feet that is the easiest way to route the trans tubing around the front cradle up to the radiator.
Lift would have made it a lot easier,I had to car on ramps driver side only and fighting around them and laying on the ground made the job that much more difficult.
Lift would have made it a lot easier,I had to car on ramps driver side only and fighting around them and laying on the ground made the job that much more difficult.
Buy 2 more ramps at Harbor Freight. I cut 2*12's to be a tad larger than the ramps This gives a bit extra height and if you are on the bare ground no sinking. Not as good as a lift of course but an economical way to get some decent working space under the car.
