Some time ago my 1985 2M4 had to be jumped. I saw some smoke and smelled that bad electrical frying smell. It was quickly dis connected and the car did start. The battery charges up on house current but the alternator won't charge it. I was about to take out the alternator and read the Ogre's post that it could be a fusible link because of how GM wired their alternators. I have also read on how difficult it can be to remove the alternator and want to avoid it if necessary. I think this is the original alternator but I am at the least the 3rd owner.
Where is the fusible link ? If it is fried is it easily noticed? If you have a bad fusible link can the Alternator still be tested?
This is what the Ogre had to say
If the car has good wiring then it's not a problem. But what if the wiring fails? From first diagram, some Examples: Pin A is loose (Pin S on a CS alt) C500 pin E4 is bad (This can cause C500 to melt or catch fire.) Splice S501 is bad Fuse Link A is fried
I'd be checking to see if there was a different voltage at the alternator output stud than there is at the battery. It will point you in the right direction, based on if it is or not, and which way it differs.
Some time ago my 1985 2M4 had to be jumped. I saw some smoke and smelled that bad electrical frying smell. It was quickly dis connected and the car did start.
Thanks
I don't think I've ever actually jumped a Fiero, but I have hooked up lots of booster batteries, even driven with one hooked up. Never had anything like this happen. How exactly were the connections made? Where was the smoke?
[This message has been edited by 85 SE VIN 9 (edited 10-02-2017).]
I don't think I've ever actually jumped a Fiero, but I have hooked up lots of booster batteries, even driven with one hooked up. Never had anything like this happen. How exactly were the connections made? Where was the smoke?
The positive and negative cables were reversed. I was thinking it but did not state it in the original post.
The positive and negative cables were reversed. I was thinking it but did not state it in the original post.
Rather crucial information there. Be glad it's only your alternator that isn't working. You might have blown the fuseable link, you might have fried the rectifier in the alternator.
My suggestion of checking for voltage at the alt vs the battery still applies though.
IF only the alt is bad then very lucky... jumped wrong can and often will break anything connected to the battery like Radio, ECM, etc.
quote
Originally posted by 2.5: If a fusible link fails, doesn't it sever the connection entirely? Like a fuse?
Most times Yes. Plus insulation will smoke and swell to prevent car fire and to keep two end to short to frame. (Fusible link wire isn't special but insulation is and made for the job.)
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
IF only the alt is bad then very lucky... jumped wrong can and often will break anything connected to the battery like Radio, ECM, etc.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 2.5: If a fusible link fails, doesn't it sever the connection entirely? Like a fuse?
Most times Yes. Plus insulation will smoke and swell to prevent car fire and to keep two end to short to frame. (Fusible link wire isn't special but insulation is and made for the job.)
[/QUOTE]
It starts and runs without an issue. It actually runs very well. I have noticed that when I have run it for a while and the battery charge is lower it balks at acceleration so I am going to start using penetrating oil on the bolts now for a Sunday removal and change of the alternator. ANy suggestions of what to get from the local car parts place OR Amazon? SInce it is Tuesday I can easily get it here. This is not a daily driver.
Thanks for the replies and help.
[This message has been edited by hcforde (edited 10-03-2017).]
This is the CS alternator, which I think would be an upgrade for you. If so you would need a new plug and the right connections. I got this one from Amazon. Another advantage is it's smaller.
This is the CS alternator, which I think would be an upgrade for you. If so you would need a new plug and the right connections. I got this one from Amazon. Another advantage is it's smaller.
Looks like it is only 100 amp when I search it. There should be higher amp options?
Looks like it is only 100 amp when I search it. There should be higher amp options?
This is a stock 2.5. Original equipment is 66 amps I believe. Why would more than 100 Amps be better? Please school me on this because I am wondering about the SI VS the CS alternators. Also it is insured as a classic car so my yearly mileage is limited.
