The key thing is they are narrowed at the stem at the bottom. Narrowed to the same diameter as stock 3X00 v6/60 valves. Personally, I will narrow my next set of valves even further.
What compression are you running, have you had problems before going to E85?
10.85:1 is my current compression but because the cam I have I must run a very aggressive timing curve. I did not change to E85 becasue I had a knocking problem. I changed because I want to have all the upgrades made before I install the new short block, 3.7 with Iron heads. One thing I tell you, There was a 50 degrees IAT temp drop just by changing to E85 on this engine. Oh and now I can sleep at nigth knowing I'm helping the enviroment!
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 06-01-2019).]
Finally took my car out yesterday for the first time with the E85 upgrade. It feels much different than before, more explosive on the gas, revs faster, winds out through the gears much faster and the cam comes in with such a punch that now the clutch can't hold. Even in 4th while cruising when I give it more gas and the RPMs start to climb and when the cam hits the clutch slips. Still have tuning to do.
Finally took my car out yesterday for the first time with the E85 upgrade. It feels much different than before, more explosive on the gas, revs faster, winds out through the gears much faster and the cam comes in with such a punch that now the clutch can't hold. Even in 4th while cruising when I give it more gas and the RPMs start to climb and when the cam hits the clutch slips. Still have tuning to do.
Yes it's amazing isn't it? It also helped my 4.9 run NOT-PIG-RICH!
The key thing is they are narrowed at the stem at the bottom. Narrowed to the same diameter as stock 3X00 v6/60 valves. Personally, I will narrow my next set of valves even further.
I've seen several tests of reduced stems, they really don't help as much as you seem to think, and they weaken the valve. I'd rather sacrifice 1-2 hp and have a stronger valve, breaking a disk off the stem makes for a bad day.
A better option would be to press in new guides with a smaller stem diameter. you'll pick up more flow than reduced stems, they have less friction because the stem contact area is smaller, and reduced mass. win all the way around.
FWIW, I've never seen a true hardcore race engine(built by a team) run reduced stems.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
E85 has a slower burn rate compared to gasoline, you'll want to advance your total timing a little more to make the most of it.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
Originally posted by ericjon262: E85 has a slower burn rate compared to gasoline, you'll want to advance your total timing a little more to make the most of it.
I did. And it likes the higher compression ratio. I picked up 10 or so rwhp switching to it.
E85 has its own rules and it let me know my distributor ignition system was very weak so i started to ugrade. Big thanks to Blacktreee for his help, i'm new to DIS. 300WHP here we come1
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 07-29-2019).]
E85 has its own rules and it let me know my distributor ignition system was very weak so i started to ugrade. Big thanks to Blacktreee for his help, i'm new to DIS. 300WHP here we come1
How close is the brick to your exhaust? It may not like that
That picture is deceiving. I strategically placed the ICM at this location because the heat will dissipate upwards not sideways. Heat goes up right Will!? Specially if I use half of the deck lid. That means all the heat is sucked from under the car upwards behind the reat window. And since I don't have anything boiling under the ICM I should be ok.
In that location, the ignition brick should only be getting radiated heat from the exhaust. The radiated heat can easily be blocked with a piece of sheet metal. I did just that, using some aluminum flashing material from the hardware store. You can cut it with scissors, and attach it to the mounting bracket with a couple screws. Simple and easy.
I know and I'm great full for that! I found a shop locally that makes a set of axles for the F23 trans but they are pretty expensive. But I think that's the only choice I have now if I don't want to keep having this problem.
This is why I save it for the track... ... and break on the track...
Well, at the tracks I run I'd rather break it in my driveway. It'll be a pretty bad scenario if I have to keep the rear end glued to the track accelerating through a turn at 75-90mph and suddenly I loose traction on the outer wheel! That'll be catasthrophic! I'm getting some sponsors together to get the money for the race axles. Mean time these axles have lifetime warranty, which mean as long as I break them I'll get a new one for free!
Also, just go F40 ... You still get 4-speed-like 1st gear and it can take more torque. The only reason I'm breaking CV's is because of the bad HELD design where my splines don't go all the way thru the bearing...
Also, just go F40 ... You still get 4-speed-like 1st gear and it can take more torque. The only reason I'm breaking CV's is because of the bad HELD design where my splines don't go all the way thru the bearing...
Do they make a kit for the F40? Whats the final drive ratio?
You don't need a Dakota Digital unit if you just use the 2000ppm output from the ECM (if you are using 7730) instead and change the divider to 7 or 8... You'll still need to convert the signal from digital to analog going to the speedometer...
I don't think the transmission is the problem.It will be interesting to see what the LSD looks like when it is apart.
Since I have limited HP and TQ due to my displacement, number of cylinders and being NA, I designed the engine to deliver the power as fast as possible, you can think of it as an antilag system on a Rally Turbo car. The theory behind this is that becasue in the class I'm planning to run, the cars have twice the power but are much heavier. So I can gain an advantage specially going into the corners, braking, coming out of the corners and accelerating. Because of this sudden power delivery, the stock components are subjected to tremendous shocks and therefore the weakest links tend to show up. So with that in mind the LSD should be OK. Now the weakest links are the axles. If I use harder tires I can make the axles last but I don't want to compromise the grip of the softer tires.
Got it out. As you can see the axle wasn't all the way in due to the design of this particular LSD. It incorporates a friction disc but is not hollow, which means the axle snap ring can't lock on its groove. That is why you can see some twisting of the splines on the picture. I'll fix that.
I would prioritize fully engaged splines over LSD, but that's just me.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
https://youtu.be/CUCOC4cxjo8 Finally I took it her out for the first time on E85 and stiffer suspension! I have to do lots of tuning yet so hopefully I can get on the dyno this coming weekend. Springs are the way I like them, I can now feel the road! I drove it for about 45mins and this short video was taken right before going to my house.
