I am installing a digital cruise control servo into my L32 3800 (2004 Grand Prix GTP) 4T65E HD Fiero. I have already swapped in a new cruise control stalk and tested power of the various functions to make sure they are working properly.
1. I would like to confirm that the servo I am using (seen below) is in fact compatible. I believe it to be, but because it is labeled "FH" and not "AR" and apparently from either a 2002-2005 Buick Rendezvous CXL or a 2001-2005 Chevy Venture, Pontiac Montana/Aztec or Oldsmobile Silhouette, I wanted to confirm.
2. I have spliced in the 4 corresponding wires from my 3800 harness into the old Fiero cruise control location at the module plug underneath the carpet. I understand that the fifth longer wire (White) needs to connect at the 3 wire connector plugged into the brake pedal switch. I am having trouble locating this 3 wire connector because I was told that the wires are Lt. Blue, Pink, & White and that when the pedal is depressed both Lt. Blue and White get power on them. I am supposed to T splice the White wire into either of those but I can't seem to find it.
Am I looking in the wrong spot?
3. I am using a N* TB and have already modified the cable end so that the throttle bracket will accommodate it as seen here:
But when I attempt to test mount it in the stock location, the cable seems to bend in a way that may obstruct it's functionality:
Does this appear to be problematic? I can't orient it in the opposite direction because it wouldn't be able to connect to the throttle bracket that way.
4. Lastly, I would be curious to know how others have mounted the servo in the stock location. Is there a particular mounting bracket to use?
Any input, help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, -Van
edited to confirm difference in FH vs. AR
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-10-2018).]
VanGTP5000 I used the AR module without issue on my 2.8 4spd. I'm almost ready to do the 38SC swap so I may have to change wiring but I believe the AR will still work. Here's a link that may help you. There's lots of other links you can search too.
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Thank you for the post and the link. I had already found that one. It is actually why I mentioned that I can't mount the module in the opposite direction the way he did in his picture.
As far as the wiring goes...I am all set. Like I mentioned, all that is left is for me to "T splice" in the one wire that goes to this 3 plug connector that I can't seem to locate on the brake switch.
I have used the search feature exhaustively (which I usually do before posting questions) and these were the only answers I haven't found yet.
Thanks, -Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-10-2018).]
See anything here that might help. Borrowed pic, not mine.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 02-09-2018).]
No sir. I don't see the three wires I mentioned (Lt Blue, White & either Orange or Pink). I am not sure of the third color. I have this pic that I am using as a reference:
But I can't seem to find it. Do you see anything like that plug in the pic you posted?
VanGTP5000 I used the AR module without issue on my 2.8 4spd. I'm almost ready to do the 38SC swap so I may have to change wiring but I believe the AR will still work. Here's a link that may help you. There's lots of other links you can search too.
VanGTP5000, I don't know the difference between the two.
Don't take this as gospel but here is a note from my schedule dated July 11, 2011 when I was installing digital cruise control. My car had existing CC and it is a 4 spd /2.8. **** FIERO / REWIRE CRUISE CTRL BRAKE INPUT UNDER CONSOLE. SERVICE MANUAL SHOWS BRN/WHT WIRE FOR BOTH BRAKE INPUT AND VSS INPUT. ACTUALLY A SOLID BROWN WIRE IS FOR THE BRAKE INPUT (KEY ON - RUN). THIS GETS CONNECTED TO THE TAN WIRE AT SAME CLIP. THE SINGLE BRN/WHT WIRE IS FOR VSS INPUT.
CABLE MOD FAILED DUE TO CABLE END STOP COMING LOOSE. ****** I don't recall connecting any wires directly to the brake switch. I'll dig in my paper folders for an old sketch. Looking back in the PFF archives only comes up with different methods of accomplishing the same thing. Plus a lot of the important pics are no longer available.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
I asked about the difference in modules because you mentioned you were successful using the AR and I wasn't even sure mine was AR because it is labeled FH. But when you responded that way I thought it might be...
-Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-10-2018).]
Got the response I was hoping for. Looks like it is the White wire in the first pic I posted above. That solves issue #2.
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:
Take a 12v test light and connect it to ground and put the probe on the white wire shown in your pic. That would be next to the orange wire. The white wire I am looking at in your pic has a slide on terminal crimped on it. It looks like someone made some mods to your brake switch, but the white wire should be the one you are looking for. You will know it's right if you get voltage on it when, and only when the brake pedal is depressed. I think you will find you have power all the time on the orange wire.
If you have power on the white wire when it is depressed, then it is the right one.
Still looking to confirm the difference between FH and AR cruise servos. I know AR are compatible with my setup (see above) but not sure about FH model servo.
Not a specific answer, but I've used AR, V8 and FB on mine. I think they are all close enough internally to use....
The cables are all interchangeable, so you might find one of a different length that suits your location better. Just be sure the end that connects to the throttle body is the correct style.
I do have extras of all the above, with brackets - $25 + shipping ea, if that will help.
Not a specific answer, but I've used AR, V8 and FB on mine. I think they are all close enough internally to use....
The cables are all interchangeable, so you might find one of a different length that suits your location better. Just be sure the end that connects to the throttle body is the correct style.
I do have extras of all the above, with brackets - $25 + shipping ea, if that will help.
darbysan,
Thank you very much for the response. Based on your experience, do you think that bend of my existing cable will obstruct the functionality of the cruise control at all? It's not that severe of a bend (I don't know if you can tell from the pic). I just wasn't sure, having never had experience with one of these units.
Do you have a pic of the bracket? I would like to see what it looks like. I did a search, but was unsuccessful in finding a good pic of what is needed.
Thanks again! -Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-14-2018).]
You should have no trouble with that bend in the cable. My original bend was about the same. In my current location ( where the charcoal canister used to be located), it makes a full 360 bend.
Picture of bracket. There are many different brackets out there, depending on the donor car, but this one seems to be easily modified to fit most places.
I didn't think that this was the bracket that others had used in the past, which is why I requested the picture.
I had been wondering how the unit attached to the bracket because although it appears like a screw hole by my hand in the picture, it actually isn't. It is just a recess. The other two holes are even more shallow recesses.
How does the unit mount to the bracket at the three points? I see the same three mounting holes in the pic of your bracket. Am I to assume that I have to tap and drill out mounting holes in the unit itself in order to use your bracket?
Thanks for your help on this. -Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-15-2018).]
Originally posted by darbysan: You should have no trouble with that bend in the cable. My original bend was about the same.
X2... mine does a 180 degree bend inside the center console and in front of the shifter. (my car is drive by wire, so I use the cruise module to move the pedal, which is why it is mounted in the console area).
Originally posted by VanGTP5000: How does the unit mount to the bracket at the three points? I see the same three mounting holes in the pic of your bracket. Am I to assume that I have to tap and drill out mounting holes in the unit itself in order to use your bracket?
All of my various Cruise Controllers have those holes drilled and tapped for mounting screws.
Originally posted by fieroguru: my car is drive by wire, so I use the cruise module to move the pedal, which is why it is mounted in the console area
I do like that way of doing things. It seems convoluted, but your system is replacing a human driver's foot with a mechanical foot.
This means that the gas pedal always works in the same intuitive way, whether driving normally or with cruise.
Kind of like how Boeing autopilot works by physically pushing the thrust levers, whereas Airbuses can vary their thrust settings without having any movement of the levers.
Not a specific answer, but I've used AR, V8 and FB on mine. I think they are all close enough internally to use....
The cables are all interchangeable, so you might find one of a different length that suits your location better. Just be sure the end that connects to the throttle body is the correct style.
I do have extras of all the above, with brackets - $25 + shipping ea, if that will help.
Darby,
I may take you up on a "AR" module with pre-drilled holes and bracket along with a cable. Do you have a cable that this ZZP throttle cable adapter would accommodate:
As you can see in the pic where the cruise cable mounts...I modified my cable (seen below) to fit in the available spot:
I am going to see if I can get my "FH" module mounted and working. If not... how much shipped to 33472?
Van, I checked shipping rates this AM. Best rate is Fedex Gnd, 4 days, $12. USPS is 2 days, $13.65 ( your choice, + the $25 for the module/bkt). No cables available, just the module and bracket.
