I am going to be using SEM Vinyl Coat on my stock plastic seat recline mechanism covers. I will be treating the pieces with SEM Soap (39362) first, then SEM Plastic and Leather Prep (38353) next. Before I spray the clolor on, there are three options for plastic adhesion promotion from SEM: Sand Free (38363), Plastic Adhesion Promoter (39863), and XXX Plastic Adhesion Promoter (77723). I was wondering if anyone could weigh in on which one they used. I am aware that it is recommended that you rub a drop of Acetone or SEM Sand Free on the back of each piece and if it has a smearing or melting effect, you are to use Sand Free...if not SEM recommends that you use Plastic Adhesion Promoter. I wanted to see what others had done on the plastics specifically related to SEM. I also realize that most people use SEM Color Coat vs. Vinyl Coat but they are essentially the same thing with more UV protection in the latter.
I painted my dash black with SEM, but I did not use SEM's adhesion promoter. Instead, I used Duplicolor's adhesion promoter. This was my first serious attempt to paint interior parts (I knew to use maximum effort while the dash was out of the car because I did NOT want to pull it a second time). Had I thought of it, I probably would have bought all SEM products for that task, but I must say that the job turned out beautiful and has held up very well since I did this probably 3 years ago.
I seriously thought I had messed up when I realized how thick and gummy the adhesion promoter was, but it all came together perfect!
Edit to add: I also did my center console (glove box) at the same time, in the same fashion, with the same good results.
[This message has been edited by viperine (edited 03-17-2018).]
Be careful with the adhesion promoters. Here is the MSDS from each SEM promoter:
38363
39863
77723
The 38363 seems to be the most harsh with the acetone percentage. I think it would melt the plastic where the other 2 have the same ingredients. However they use petroleum as the main product and acetone is minimal so I would think they would be safer but what I cannot tell you is how this old plastic will react to ANY promoter.
I have directly sprayed SEM paint on several sets of seat recline covers (factory and Fiero Store models) without any adhesion promoters being used. All still look good several years later.
I painted my shifter cap and console with SEM paint, soap and adhesion promoter, followed their directions precisely. The paint scratched off if you looked at it wrong. I cleaned everything off the parts with denatured alcohol and scrubbed them with Comet cleanser. After they were good and dry I wiped them down lightly with Acetone and painted them again with SEM Color Coat and then SEM satin clear coat, that's the way we painted car interior pieces in the "old" days and it always held up fine.
The parts look great and have held up good but this car isn't a DD.
Be careful with the adhesion promoters. Here is the MSDS from each SEM promoter:
38363
39863
77723
The 38363 seems to be the most harsh with the acetone percentage. I think it would melt the plastic where the other 2 have the same ingredients. However they use petroleum as the main product and acetone is minimal so I would think they would be safer but what I cannot tell you is how this old plastic will react to ANY promoter.
Thank you for the warning IMSA. I knew to be careful but this helps to realize I need to be very careful!!!
-Van
[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 03-18-2018).]
I painted my dash black with SEM, but I did not use SEM's adhesion promoter. Instead, I used Duplicolor's adhesion promoter. This was my first serious attempt to paint interior parts (I knew to use maximum effort while the dash was out of the car because I did NOT want to pull it a second time). Had I thought of it, I probably would have bought all SEM products for that task, but I must say that the job turned out beautiful and has held up very well since I did this probably 3 years ago.
I seriously thought I had messed up when I realized how thick and gummy the adhesion promoter was, but it all came together perfect!
Edit to add: I also did my center console (glove box) at the same time, in the same fashion, with the same good results.
Very glad that worked out for you Vip! I am gonna try and stick with SEM throughout.
I have directly sprayed SEM paint on several sets of seat recline covers (factory and Fiero Store models) without any adhesion promoters being used. All still look good several years later.
Nelson
That is great to know Nelson! Did you use the SEM soap or the Plastic & Leather Prep also or did you skip those?
I painted my shifter cap and console with SEM paint, soap and adhesion promoter, followed their directions precisely. The paint scratched off if you looked at it wrong. I cleaned everything off the parts with denatured alcohol and scrubbed them with Comet cleanser. After they were good and dry I wiped them down lightly with Acetone and painted them again with SEM Color Coat and then SEM satin clear coat, that's the way we painted car interior pieces in the "old" days and it always held up fine.
The parts look great and have held up good but this car isn't a DD.
Wow Larry...I am surprised to hear this. I am glad you got it worked out though! Do you think it could have had something to do with you leaving out the step of using the Plastic & Leather prep after SEM Soap and before Adhesion Promoter?
Wow Larry...I am surprised to hear this. I am glad you got it worked out though! Do you think it could have had something to do with you leaving out the step of using the Plastic & Leather prep after SEM Soap and before Adhesion Promoter?
-Van
I did use the plastic and leather prep, just forgot to mention it. I probably spent close to $ 100 on 2 cans of Color Coat and all the prep products. I was really disappointed when the paint failed after all that trouble. I really wanted the console and shift cap to match the seats so in desperation I tried the old school method.
[This message has been edited by Larryinkc (edited 03-19-2018).]
With several light coats of SEM you really don't need anything.
I've been doing all my cars for year with just SEM after cleaning the part with dish soap, and rub down with rubbing alcohol.
When doing the light coats. Just think of it as snow. You want to spray a light "snow" all over the part...but NOT concentrate so much on one spot as to get a full covering of paint. Let it fully dry in a room no less than 70F. Come back half hour pater then another coat of snow. Do this 4 or 5 times and you will start to see a sold color. Then let it cure overnight.
[This message has been edited by SP1200 (edited 03-20-2018).]
Thank you for the info. SP1200. I have to tell you that I am surprised to hear these things. I had always heard great things about SEM Color systems but ONLY when done to rigid preparation specs. I am glad to get other people's perspectives and experiences beforehand.
I am also planning on using SEM Vinyl Coat on some vinyl I want to recondition. I think in this instance I am going to do the recommended steps of applying SEM Soap and SEM Vinyl Prep before I lay down the SEM Vinyl Coat. I am attempting to cover a significant area and don't want to take any chances.
