There's a thread on adjusting the parking brake ( https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?EBrakeAdjust ), and a thread on the front parking brake cable ( https://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin...9967&style=printable ). Both were very helpful, but I couldn't find anything on the rear cables.

While replacing the calipers, I found out that my parking brake cables were seized. Yes, all three were completely locked. So I ordered replacements for the entire parking brake cable system.

Each cable had it's problem points, but I found solutions that I couldn't find anything on. For instance, since my cables were seized, I found a easy solution to getting the old cable through the grommet used in the firewall. Actually, it came in handy everywhere.


Since the cables wouldn't slide at all through their sheaths, I ended up having to cut all of them to get the slack to remove everything. There's were the cutters came in.

The cables used a tab lock system, with three springing tabs around the outside. To get them out you had to press the tabs inside, and to get them in you pushed until the tabs popped open on the other side of the wall locking them in place.


The right and left rear cables pass through the frame, and you have to release the tabs to get them out.
Driver's side

Passenger's side


My first thought was to go through the opening in the frame, but the angle made it difficult to get to the tabs. I used a screwdriver, because I couldn't get my needlenose pliers in to squeeze the tabs. I also realized that the cavity had never been cleaned out. At least it seemed like it. I used the same screwdriver to clean out the mud and gunk that had gathered inside of there. I also made a mental note to do the same thing whenever I change the oil, and lube the tie rod fittings.

Anyway, while I was cleaning the driver's side cavity out, I found something important. On the underside of both frames is a slot for reaching the cable from underneath. Since I was using jack stands I got lucky, because I had to clean out the spot just to get to the cable and the screwdriver pushed through the slot.
Driver's side

Passenger's side


Also, when putting in the new rear cables, attach them to the calipers before you push them through the frame. It's just a little easier to do, because there's less flexibility since the cables have to pass underneath the tie rods.

Now, comes connecting the cables. The front cable feeds through the balancer, and attaches to the passenger/right cable with the connector. The driver/left cable has a threaded end that goes into the balancer on the opposite end from the front cable. Okay, it's easier to show you.


Adjusting the brakes is fairly simple. The end opposite of where it feeds into the balancer has a hex. Use a wrench to grip it, and spin the hex on the balance to pull in the slack. The way it's all connected tightens up all the cables, until you have a proper emergency brake. Follow the instructions from the thread in the first paragraph, and soon you'll be able to park on a hill without any issues.

Since the cables were seized, I have no idea how long it's been since Charli has been without a parking brake. Now, thanks to the adjusting and front cable replacement forum posts, and some blind luck, I can park on a hill without having to carry a wheel chock in the passenger floorboard!

Tight cables often isn't good. System should have a little slack for allowing shrinkage when cold to freezing weather. Because:
Both Pbrake arm much reach Rest/Stop position when off. If not then piston(s) can't return and Can drag the pads. That causes Wear problems minimum, brake fade, Boiled Fluid or ever Brake Fires.

Can break/compress ears holding ends easy.
Break/compress them on caliper end first. Box end wrench ~1/2" to compress but dirt in them often fights you. So Replacing cables just break them.
Break ears in frame. Go thru big frame hole w/ small tip screw driver usually does this.

Your missing parts or all the inner mud flap is why frame has crap in there. Likely Part of why Wheel Cables froze because crap keeps "water" etc on the cable ends to corrode them.

"Now, thanks to the adjusting and front cable replacement forum posts, and some blind luck, I can park on a hill without having to carry a wheel chock in the passenger floorboard!"
Maybe, Maybe Not.
Cables are only part of Pbrake working or not. See my Cave, Rear Brakes
Problem(s) w/ Calipers can still cause Pbrake not to grab fully or not at all.
Even w/ a working Pbrake in many vehicles, not just cars w/ same caliper design as Fiero, won't hold over 20-30% grade when parked for hours.
FMVSS standards only requires testing vehicles on 20%(~11° grade for 5 minutes, AT w/ Park and Pbrake on 30%(~16° grade for 5 minutes.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Thanks Ogre. I'll look all of that over when I get the chance.

I'll also replace the splash guards as soon as I can. I don't drive it in the rain very often, but I'd still like to fix the splash guards.

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'87 Fiero GT with a lot of work to be done, but at least it's driveable!