Fellas,
I understand the rules regarding Pennocks Fiero posts. We are not allowed to take advantage nor abuse the post. I ran my question past you experts a few weeks ago. I thank the members who did offer suggestions. Unfortunately, I did not ask my earlier question trunk wiring with accuracy anf with clarity🤨.
My question: When I install my (rear) trunk remote solenoid release, what path do I use to run the wires? It appears Pontiac built the trunk where one could use a few different routs to run the wire(s) to the release solenoid. But, which one do I use? Can anybody show me how too, and where too, rout the dash switch release wire? For that matter, where can I tap into a “hot” wire (which loom do I use) to get to the proper “hot” wire?
I appreciate your assistance.
Cordially,
Kevin
Ps. The trunk I’m using is from an ‘84, which had no internal trunk release “open” switch. I have a ‘85 Duke SE which had this internal dash switch from the factory.

Kevin,
Most of your wiring is already there. You just need to run a wire from the black wire connector near your left hinge to the solenoid wire. To test it, run a wire from the bolts holding on the latch solenoid to the trunk latch. (the latch is ground)
Keep in mind...
1. The wire is on the drivers hinge on my 85 SE. May be on a different side on the later years. Someone pulled the wire from my trunk so I just ran a wire directly from the connector to the solenoid to test.
2. The switch may not activate unless the parking brake is on and the ignition key is on. Do you hear a relay clicking in the dash near the steering column?
(I pulled the relay and wired it direct in my car)

[This message has been edited by JMTUT (edited 09-03-2018).]

The cars that came from the factory with the dash mounted trunk release switch also had a separate harness that ran from the deck release solinoid to a spot near the passenger side decklid hinge where it plugs in to the main body wire harness. There is also a relay activated under the steering collum by the switch on the dash. These relays are prone to failure but are not needed anyway. You can pull the relay and run a a jumper from the positive 12 volt pin(with the dash switch depressed) on the relay socket to the positive 12 volt feed to the trunk solinoid. Pressing the switch then feeds 12 volts to the solinoid releasing the trunk latch. Keep the latch and lock mechanism nice and clean and it will work fine.

On 84/85 models the decklid wiring connector is on the driver's side decklid hinge.
The wiring to the Deck Ajar pin switch will also run on this side.

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Hey Kevin and everyone else helping out, I helped work on Kevin's car last year so if it helps here's a little more info.
He started out with an 85 with power trunk release with the wire in the engine harness. His engine gave up the ghost so we brought it to my place for a swap. He had an event to get to after the weekend so we did the swap Roadkill style. By that I mean we did it in a weekend and then he drove off in it for a several hour drive with minimal testing. In our haste we kept the wiring harness from the donor which was an 86, not realizing the decklid switch was not in that harness. So he headed out without decklid power. Later the decklid was switched to one with no power option.

So he has all the needed components in the cab. Switch, relay and what not. What needs to be done is put the wire in the decklid and then figure out which pin in the harness needs to have the actuator wire. Or any way that can be wired in, C500 or C203? I'm out of the country now, otherwise I would try to offer more help on the matter.


-Jason

[This message has been edited by liv4God (edited 09-06-2018).]

The picture I have above shows the connector point from the interior harness. It is from an 85. That is where power will come from to the latch.