The Cobalt axle issue is due to old info and GM changing the differential offset with the production run of the F40.
People have used the Cobalt axles with the G6 version of the F40 by moving the drivetrain towards the passenger side. You guys are not using that version of the F40.
The issue is at sometime during the production run (2009 or possibly later) GM made the bellhousing on the non-GM metric versions deeper so they could fit larger clutch setups for higher HP and AWD applications. This moved the differential about 1" further from the engine vs. the G6 F40.
Hmmm.. I was able to mount my LF3 with the 2008 Saab 9-3 F40 which had been in production since 2006. I don't have a G6/F40 to compare it to but I was able to square up the LF3/F40 combo on the cradle with the cobalt turbo axles resting 50% in the tripot housings in the F40. This was all accomplished by moving the block/tranny mating point/line approximately two inches toward the passenger side.
Here's the driver side but did the same thing with the PS to make sure everything squared up.
Originally posted by Rickady88GT: A good clutch can fit in the short bell housing right? GM used a dual mass system that took up some space.
Compared to the Getrag or F23, even the shallow G6 F40 bellhousing is cavernous. I fit a 10" clutch in mine and Mwhite used a twin disk clutch in his.
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Originally posted by msweldon: Hmmm.. I was able to mount my LF3 with the 2008 Saab 9-3 F40 which had been in production since 2006. I don't have a G6/F40 to compare it to but I was able to square up the LF3/F40 combo on the cradle with the cobalt turbo axles resting 50% in the tripot housings in the F40. This was all accomplished by moving the block/tranny mating point/line approximately two inches toward the passenger side.
Looks like they phased in the bellhousings starting in 2008/2009. I also found a reference for both depths in 2011-2014.
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2009 F40 (MK6) General Motors Powertrain-Europe F40 six-speed manual car transaxle 2009 Model Year Summary
Carryover Features and Benefits from 2008i model year
ALL WHEEL DRIVE ADOPTION The transmission housings are reinforced and elongated for bigger clutch size, 250 mm. The differential is upgraded concerning size and material in order to withstand higher output torque for AWD system.
The Cobalt axle issue is due to old info and GM changing the differential offset with the production run of the F40.
People have used the Cobalt axles with the G6 version of the F40 by moving the drivetrain towards the passenger side. You guys are not using that version of the F40.
The issue is at sometime during the production run (2009 or possibly later) GM made the bellhousing on the non-GM metric versions deeper so they could fit larger clutch setups for higher HP and AWD applications. This moved the differential about 1" further from the engine vs. the G6 F40.
Here are a couple of picture of the G6 version (clean) and a later model version.
Guru, thanks for that info. I don't think I will have an issue with axle length. When I designed my engine/transmission mounts, I had the suspension and axles in place and centered the assembly so the whole thing was equal on both sides. I won't comment on axle strength, because I have no experience with them, but I do not intend on abusing the axles with the way I drive.
Compared to the Getrag or F23, even the shallow G6 F40 bellhousing is cavernous. I fit a 10" clutch in mine and Mwhite used a twin disk clutch in his. [QUOTE]
Could you elaborate on this twin disc setup he used? I tried to get RAM clutch to design and implement a 9.5" one for the f40 with everything a go except the input shaft out of the F40 was an inch too short..
Originally posted by msweldon: Could you elaborate on this twin disc setup he used? I tried to get RAM clutch to design and implement a 9.5" one for the f40 with everything a go except the input shaft out of the F40 was an inch too short..
The Cobalt axle issue is due to old info and GM changing the differential offset with the production run of the F40.
People have used the Cobalt axles with the G6 version of the F40 by moving the drivetrain towards the passenger side. You guys are not using that version of the F40.
The issue is at sometime during the production run (2009 or possibly later) GM made the bellhousing on the non-GM metric versions deeper so they could fit larger clutch setups for higher HP and AWD applications. This moved the differential about 1" further from the engine vs. the G6 F40.
They may even have done something similar with the F23, as the (later) Ecotec bellhousing is 10mm deeper than the (earlier) metric (2.2 pushrod) bellhousing.
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 11-01-2020).]
Hmmm.. I was able to mount my LF3 with the 2008 Saab 9-3 F40 which had been in production since 2006. I don't have a G6/F40 to compare it to but I was able to square up the LF3/F40 combo on the cradle with the cobalt turbo axles resting 50% in the tripot housings in the F40. This was all accomplished by moving the block/tranny mating point/line approximately two inches toward the passenger side.
Here's the driver side but did the same thing with the PS to make sure everything squared up.
On the left is the plastic hydrolic fitting for the clutch slave and associated items that I could not get to stop leaking. On the right is my fabricated apparatus to serve the same function. Comments encouraged. Thanks Daryl
Yet again I come to the brain trust for answers to life's persistent questions. Ok, so it may not be that big a deal, but I don't exactly know how to interface the Impala A/C compressor to the Fiero system. Below are photos of what has to be connected together. [img]http:
The first two show the fitting from the condenser and I assume goes to the compressor. What is that fitting called and what size is it? Since I will have to have a line or hose made, I would like to appear to know what I am doing when I order it. Next photo shows the connection for the dryer. Can I use a standard OEM Fiero dryer, and if so what fitting comes off of the dryer? again will have to come up with something to connect the dryer to the compressor. The last two photos show the OEM Impala hoses that connect to the compressor. The larger hose is labeled 16mm and the aluminium pipe connected to it is 15.7mm or .61 inches O.D. the smaller hose is labeled 10mm and the aluminum pipe attached to it is 13mm or .496 inches O.D. any suggestions or info is appreciated. Thanks Daryl
[This message has been edited by Daryl M (edited 12-04-2020).]
If you're going to have the ECM control the A/C compressor using A/C pressure read with GM's standard A/C pressure transducer, then you'll need to add a fitting for that somewhere.
The Cobalt axle issue is due to old info and GM changing the differential offset with the production run of the F40.
People have used the Cobalt axles with the G6 version of the F40 by moving the drivetrain towards the passenger side. You guys are not using that version of the F40.
The issue is at sometime during the production run (2009 or possibly later) GM made the bellhousing on the non-GM metric versions deeper so they could fit larger clutch setups for higher HP and AWD applications. This moved the differential about 1" further from the engine vs. the G6 F40.
Here are a couple of picture of the G6 version (clean) and a later model version.
Confused. My F40 is from a 2007 Saab and as such, shouldn't be moved.... That stated, those number seem right. If everything was moved by and in the passenger side, I may have run it. As it sits, looks like ill be going custom axles.
I've heard the theory that the F40 torque rating is dependent on having the dual mass fly wheel. Thinking goes that the dual mass wheel levels out shock load peaks. What is your opinions on this?
I've heard the theory that the F40 torque rating is dependent on having the dual mass fly wheel. Thinking goes that the dual mass wheel levels out shock load peaks. What is your opinions on this?
Generally transmissions are rated by engine torque and vehicle Gross weight. Since DM FW's are essentially to act as a "sponge" for the driveline, going to a billet setup will be harsher on the Trans. I don't think it will necessarily reduce the rating from power but it would make it more susceptible to damage from harsh shifts.
Same here on my LF3/F40 flywheel and clutch setup but going with aluminum and a torque plate instead of billet. RandomTask, do you plan on going forced induction with your setup as the Stock Saab C/PP/FW should be fine with the stock lfx power levels. I did 'not' want to go SPEC, but after RAM Clutches were unable to create a dual organic for me, there really was no other supposedly daily drivable alternative.
[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 12-07-2020).]
Same here on my LF3/F40 flywheel and clutch setup but going with aluminum and a torque plate instead of billet. RandomTask, do you plan on going forced induction with your setup as the Stock Saab C/PP/FW should be fine with the stock lfx power levels. I did 'not' want to go SPEC, but after RAM Clutches were unable to create a dual organic for me, but there really was no other supposedly daily drivable alternative.
Yeah, forced induction. Get it running for now then build a motor on the side to switch in. Would like around 550hp
Same here on my LF3/F40 flywheel and clutch setup but going with aluminum and a torque plate instead of billet. RandomTask, do you plan on going forced induction with your setup as the Stock Saab C/PP/FW should be fine with the stock lfx power levels. I did 'not' want to go SPEC, but after RAM Clutches were unable to create a dual organic for me, there really was no other supposedly daily drivable alternative. ...
It's looking good, Marc. I still haven't done anything with mine, other than look at it, and move it around. With a bit of luck, that will change in the next few weeks.
It's looking good, Marc. I still haven't done anything with mine, other than look at it, and move it around. With a bit of luck, that will change in the next few weeks.
This is so true, it's comical. I started a Ford V10 engine rebuild in the summer and have yet to get past torqueing the crank main caps. The thing just gets moved from one side of the shop to the other.
You guys are going to finish way before I do. Too many unforeseen roadblocks that have nothing to do with the build. First surgery Dec. 23., but I will enjoy watching you guys from the sidelines for a few months. Looking good!
You guys are going to finish way before I do. Too many unforeseen roadblocks that have nothing to do with the build. First surgery Dec. 23., but I will enjoy watching you guys from the sidelines for a few months. Looking good!
Daryl, good luck on your surgery
Don't count on me finishing soon... I've got numerous little issues to deal with on mine, clutch position sensor bracket, build/figure out hall effect gear position sensor, voltage output sensor to alternator circuit, PWM controlled fan integration, can bus to speedo/tach integration, stainless coolant tube to cut then mandrel then reweld, vacuum actuated boost control actuator and bracket, twin oem boost and waste gate controllers to single turbo integration, DBW throttle pedal bracket, etc..etc..etc... and a metric butt ton of wiring..... not to mention hp tuner calibration...
[This message has been edited by msweldon (edited 12-08-2020).]
Originally posted by Rickady88GT: ... The thing just gets moved from one side of the shop to the other.
Mine got moved to D-ville, and then to a tiny garage, two counties away. The next move will be into my shop, if it ever gets completed. (Trusses were supposed to be here, today. But they're not.)
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Originally posted by msweldon: ... Don't count on me finishing soon... I've got numerous little issues to deal with on mine..
<blah, blah, blah, blah... etc.>
Yeah. There's that. But what are you going to do after lunch? . . . Sorry. Had to. You're treading uncharted territory. I salute you. Seriously.
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Darryl... I hope your surgery goes well. Please jump in when you can. You've done some really nice work. Looking forward to seeing more. But take care of yourself.
Trying to get as much done as I can before my surgery, so I went to the Pull-n-Save to get AC lines. This is what I found. Yes, I bought them anyway, but i gotta ask, is punching holes in A/C lines standard procedure? All of the cars i checked there had similar holes.
... i gotta ask, is punching holes in A/C lines standard procedure? All of the cars i checked there had similar holes.
Not surprised at all. I think they vent any "dangerous chemical" before the car is placed in the yard. I've also heard of them punching gas tanks, and removing catalytic converters.
... i gotta ask, is punching holes in A/C lines standard procedure? All of the cars i checked there had similar holes.
Not surprised at all. I think they vent any "dangerous chemical" before the car is placed in the yard. I've also heard of them punching gas tanks, and removing catalytic converters.
Your tax dollars at work. [/QUOTE]
Gives me an excuse to buy an AC hose crimper. Never pass up an opportunity to get a new tool.
I love getting tools I have never used before. Love figuring out how to use them. This baby is supposed to crimp the sleeves on A/C hoses. Should make quick work of my A/C connection issues. Is anyone familiar with this type of tool? Any tips before I ruin the first few crimps trying to learn how to do it right Thanks Daryl
Trying to get as much done as I can before my surgery, so I went to the Pull-n-Save to get AC lines. This is what I found. Yes, I bought them anyway, but i gotta ask, is punching holes in A/C lines standard procedure? All of the cars i checked there had similar holes.
They suck out the freon and drain the tank. Also empty the oil pan. That is now standard in Ca. The goal is to NOT spill anything.
Originally posted by Daryl M: Is anyone familiar with this type of tool? Any tips before I ruin the first few crimps trying to learn how to do it right Thanks Daryl
I have that one as well. I normally crimp the fittings 2 times rotating the tool 1 flat to help balance out the compression of the crimped fitting.
Have you ever had a leak in a fitting you crimped?
Yes. When Iooked closely at the crimped ferrule it wasn't uniform on all flats. That is when I started to crimp them twice and rotating the tool between crimps.
Yes. When Iooked closely at the crimped ferrule it wasn't uniform on all flats. That is when I started to crimp them twice and rotating the tool between crimps.
Thanks for the tip. I can use all of the help I can get.
I did a test fit this morning just to make sure it is all going to fit. So far I think I'm pretty happy, that is until I find that first thing that I didn't notice.😝
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