I have a question about coolant tube repair - the long ones that run under the rocker panel. Last summer I had the coolant tubes patched using a patch kit from Rodney Dickman due to corrosion caused by rotting tube brackets. Unfortunately, the damage is too extensive, so they have began leaking again. I purchased a set of used tubes from the Fiero Factory, but I don't want to give up on my originals just yet as finding good condition tubes is getting harder and harder to find. So, I would like to have the bad section of the tubes cut out and a new piece of stainless welded in its place. Can anyone provide any guidance on what grade of stainless these tubes are made of? Also, to whom would I have make this repair (I can't weld)? A muffler shop? I am in the Chicagoland area, so if anyone has any good advice on the best way to repair the tube as well as a recommendation on whom I could take the tubes to perform the repair, I would greatly appreciate it.
Sorry, no pictures to post. The damage is definitely corrosion which occurred under the coolant tube brackets at both the rear and forward brackets on both sides of the car. Coolant was sweating through the pipe on both sides. Another question I have is just how necessary are the drain plugs in these pipes? Most of the threads I've read on the forums say not to use them when draining the coolant due to their tendency to seize up. If I can find someone to weld in a new piece of pipe, I'm thinking I'll just have them delete the plugs and weld in just a straight piece of pipe. Any thoughts?
Anytime that I do a repair that is coolant related I remove one, or both, of my coolant tube drain plugs. Both of mine can be easily removed and replaced ... very helpful in getting the coolant level down below whatever part in the system that I need to service. I have a southern car and that is certainly a factor. I also have a set of coolant tubes that I removed from a 1988 Formula. Very solid parts without any corrosion, so if anyone is interested contact me for additional information.
We remove those coolant pipe plugs out all the time. Only once I had to heat them with the torch but they came out. When they are replaced we use a 1/4 NPT hex pipe plug. The ones that we have in the shop have a larger hex than the OEM plugs and are made of brass. That insures that they won't rust in place.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Anytime that I do a repair that is coolant related I remove one, or both, of my coolant tube drain plugs.... very helpful in getting the coolant level down below whatever part in the system that I need to service.
We remove those coolant pipe plugs out all the time. Only once I had to heat them with the torch but they came out. When they are replaced we use a 1/4 NPT hex pipe plug. The ones that we have in the shop have a larger hex than the OEM plugs and are made of brass. That insures that they won't rust in place.
For once we agree on something. I replace GM's stainless hex socket plugs with brass external hex plugs. It's just a 1/8" pipe plug. I also use teflon tape every time I reinstall.
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Originally posted by Patrick:
IMO, that's what the radiator petcock is for.
The lower radiator hose is a few inches above the bottom of the radiator, so the petcock does not drain the right side coolant tube.
I hands-down prefer the drain plugs over other methods of draining the cooling system. I can capture the largest share of the coolant with the least mess that way.
Also, a stock V6 cooling system holds over 3 gallons.
The lower radiator hose is a few inches above the bottom of the radiator, so the petcock does not drain the right side coolant tube.
Is that really an issue? Does the right side coolant tube need to be drained to service the water pump, heater core etc? And if the cooling system's being flushed by a home mechanic, some of the hoses need to be disconnected anyway to do a decent job.
We remove those coolant pipe plugs out all the time. Only once I had to heat them with the torch but they came out. When they are replaced we use a 1/4 NPT hex pipe plug. The ones that we have in the shop have a larger hex than the OEM plugs and are made of brass. That insures that they won't rust in place.
They are standard brass hex pipe plugs. I thought the size was 1/4" NPT but Will might be correct that its a 1/8" NPT plug. Since I rarely use these things go with the 1/8 NPT size. I found them on Ebay
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Does the right side coolant tube need to be drained to service the water pump, heater core etc? And if the cooling system's being flushed by a home mechanic, some of the hoses need to be disconnected anyway to do a decent job.
