Hi Everyone Looking for some correct info for upgrading rear brakes on my 86 GT Everyplace I look seems like trans am calipers are an easy bolt up conversion 85-90 but I discovered there were no rear calipers in those years only drum in rear. I'm assuming the stock trans am front calipers are direct bolt up to my brackets on my 86 rear,realizing I would lose emergency brakes there would be no provisions for cables. Is this the correct procedure if I choose to that. I have already swap out fronts with kit from Fiero Factory which work out great with larger brake master cylinder ,brakes are smooth less noisy and more responsive . I am assuming agan Adding vented rotors in rear should really improve this system . All responses would be appreciated here Challenger
Even w/o inspections most places Require a working parking/emergency brake. NY is one that will fail inspection instantly w/o this. Even a nube tech can see rear brakes w/ missing P-bake cables and won't bother doing more of the inspection. NY "Antique Tags" also still requires this and if you lie to DMV having you tag taking could be the lest of your problems.
Only choice is Seville rear but isn't a bolt on part...
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Even the front Grand Am / Beretta brake upgrade is not a direct bolt-on conversion. There is lot of cutting and grinding to be done (parting off the existing disc from the hub & clearancing the caliper mounting bracket) that if you don't have the skills to do (I don't!) can lead to problems. so some folks go to the machine shop an pay to have this done. Alternatively, you can buy the kit from TFS. Then, it's kinda bolt-on .
Before you you try the change out, I suggest you make sure everything in the stock brake system from from to back and including the booster and master cylinder is functioning properly. Change out the pads to something a bit softer with more "grab". You'll be amazed at the improvement. If this doesn't float your boat, I'd change the brake booster first, leaving everything else stock. Still not happy, then try the Grand Am / Beretta brake upgrade on the front and possibly the Seville caliper upgrade on the rear. For that, you'll need custom mounting brackets. ( I got mine from DP Wood on the forum.) I've got two GT's and one has stock brakes with a brake booster upgrade and the other the Grand Am upgrade. The stock brakes are as good or better than the Grand Am brakes.
There's loads of information out there. Ogre's Cave section on brakes is the starting point.
Even the front Grand Am / Beretta brake upgrade is not a direct bolt-on conversion. There is lot of cutting and grinding to be done (parting off the existing disc from the hub & clearancing the caliper mounting bracket) that if you don't have the skills to do (I don't!) can lead to problems. so some folks go to the machine shop an pay to have this done. Alternatively, you can buy the kit from TFS. Then, it's kinda bolt-on .
Before you you try the change out, I suggest you make sure everything in the stock brake system from from to back and including the booster and master cylinder is functioning properly. Change out the pads to something a bit softer with more "grab". You'll be amazed at the improvement. If this doesn't float your boat, I'd change the brake booster first, leaving everything else stock. Still not happy, then try the Grand Am / Beretta brake upgrade on the front and possibly the Seville caliper upgrade on the rear. For that, you'll need custom mounting brackets. ( I got mine from DP Wood on the forum.) I've got two GT's and one has stock brakes with a brake booster upgrade and the other the Grand Am upgrade. The stock brakes are as good or better than the Grand Am brakes.
There's loads of information out there. Ogre's Cave section on brakes is the starting point.
The O/P already has the big master cylinder and G/A brakes installed upfront. All he has to do is add the rear set.
The G/A four wheel/big M/C brake package provides 50% more clamping force on the rotor and demonstrates good balance under hard braking.
It is significantly better than the stock brake package.
Your're right, he does. But based on my SOTP brake dyno, I still think that a good stock system is as good as the Grand Am upgrade - especially with the Blazer brake booster, decent pads, and stainless steel braided lines.
I would suggest the Grand Am discs with Seville rear calipers and the DP Wood brackets. DP Wood can be found in the private message list - I don't know if he still makes the brackets? But worth a try.
This setup retains stock wheels but gives better braking (especially much less brake fade and/or overheating on track) and you won't need to mess up the brake balance/proportioning if you already have Grand Am discs and calipers up front.
Stops this kind of "front brakes only still working!" situation:
Your're right, he does. But based on my SOTP brake dyno, I still think that a good stock system is as good as the Grand Am upgrade - especially with the Blazer brake booster, decent pads, and stainless steel braided lines.
Based on real world experience, on several cars, the G/A system is far superior to the nonvented rotors used on the stock system in terms of brake fade under hard use. The big booster does increase clamping force, but does nothing to prevent fade when the rotors overheat. The O/P currently has a system installed that has too much front bias, he must correct the front/rear caliper bore mismatch to eliminate that condition before anything else. The G/A or Seville calipers with the vented G/A rotors will correct his current condition. If he desires more braking after correcting his current bias problem, the big booster would be the next step.
Thank you guys for wealth of information with plenty of reading to digest. I have changed out front with TFS already and it definitely improved the the stopping and smooth out noise from semi- metallic pads which I guess was not a good choice on my part. I will change out power booster filter,which looks like pain in the a___, Check all hoses and fittings and see if more improvement exist. I am looking to change out semi-Matalics in rear any suggestions would be appreciated to possibly heilpwith stopping ability . I see Seville in rear may be an option to consider , what years will work that application,how to get in touch with DP for th possibility of brackets he has fabricated ,I am assuming the cables for EM brakes will work with them,I am not familiar with Seville calipers Thanks again glad to be part of this great forum Regards Challenger
If you don't need the parking brake (it's not really an emergency brake), just use the G/A front calipers and rotors on the rear to restore the balance to your system.
The parts are direct fit, bolt on.
Your rear brakes, as configured now, are doing very little of the braking.
Thank you I'm really not concerned with parking brake only use it to pop the trunk even though I finally figured out how to adjust correctly. Have never used it in the 48k miles driven. In reference to your question about power booster filter I am concerned with the 20 + of years on plastic and original rubber ,strange things occurr with heat back there from engine and cat. Which has been upgraded recently to newer style with much less heat I figure the filter has served it purpose along with booster check valve. I am outweighing the choice of GA rears opposed to Saville which it seems with some effort some cable changes bring back p/brakes. Wondering about different piston dia.of both will upset bias of system although it seems most people say the GA in rear is the perfect swap others say no so I will have to ponder that. Some say just changing pads on OEM to softer material will work out good.There is a lot to consider here most guys on this forum have been down this road before with success either way,I was honestly trying not to make this a crap shoot. Thanks for your input Challenger
