I am replacing a rear caliper on my 86gt. The new caliper comes with the ebrake spring already attached. I would like to use this new spring rather than transferring my old one. In order to transfer it I need to move the cable without the spring over to the new caliper. Any advice on how to do so? I would think I should release the brake and adjust the nut on the adjuster to full loose position. Will this give me enough play in the cable to pop it out of the notch in the old bracket and insert it into the new one? The caliper being replaced is the drivers side rear.

Get yourself a door spring compressor. Many auto parts chains carry them.

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and open it up then insert it into the spring as far as you can push it. Ideally, the cable should be at the full depth of the V slot. Tighten down on the nut to compress the spring to the point it will come loose from the tabs on the caliper bracket and ebrake arm. Once the spring tension is off the arm, you can use a pair of channel locks, needle nose, or slip joint pliers to twist the end of the cable out of the ebrake arm. At that point you can slide the spring off the cable.

Next, to detach the cable from the caliper, you can slide a socket of the appropriate size (I think it's a 10mm) over the end of the cable and push it against the retaining tangs to let the cable slide back out of the caliper bracket. You can also use a pair of 45* needle nose to release the tabs as you pull against the cable sheath.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 08-25-2020).]

Door tool won't compress all of E-lever spring but still use them.
See my Cave, Rear Brakes
(In fact this tool often doesn't fit Door Hinge Springs on Fiero and others right too but get enough spring still works.)

Most "Deep" Sockets may not fit the cable to push in cable "Ears" on caliper.
I often use Close end wrench or even copper tube/pipe to do this.
Worm type hose clamp can work to. Don't tighten so tight can't move as cable moves.

Think ½ copper pipe can to this but don't "debur" after cut w/ tube/pipe cutter. ½ after finishing the cut is often a bit too big to release to ears.

Note: Ears often have crap and rust under them and won't compress down/in. Make sure you "cleaned" them first.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

My memory is that the OP is on the right track with just undoing the adjuster, no need to dink with the caliper spring. Gonna have to redo the adjuster anyway, so undo the adjust all the way and off you go.

As mentioned, needle-nose vise grips and big flathead will be your friends as motivators for the cable end.

-- A

You can try compressing it and then use zip ties.
Also this type of tool:

https://www.summitracing.co...GEAQYBCABEgIX8fD_BwE

I used the door spring compressor on mine the last time I did them. That worked for me.