Looking to finally convert my rear to coilovers.

1. There is a popular thread on PFF about building you own but the links for parts no longer work.

2. Ground control's look to be to short and not a good option. Anyone use these with good results?

3. West Coast Fiero has an offering . Feedback anyone?

4. Hoping someone has a great option based upon first hand experience.

Thank you!

Dime

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

I offer coilover kits in various stages as well:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/076627.html
http://fieroguruperformance.com/?page_id=267

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-18-2020).]

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: I offer coilover kits in various stages as well: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/076627.html http://fieroguruperformance.com/?page_id=267

Well I am glad I asked fieroguru - thanks for the response! For some reason I was thinking your stuff was only for 88's.

I have a 3800 SC/4t65e HD - I believe (but it is a guess) the combo probably weight 100lbs +/- more than a 2.8 the stock Fiero 5 speed getrag.

For the past several years I have run with slightly cut rear springs (I think they are Fiero V6 springs) with the top hat flipped and my deck lid clearanced to fit. I have no complaints what so ever except they look.......STOCK. I would not want it much firmer or softer - pretty close to what I have....
Based upon what I have said, what spring rate would you suggest?

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

Rear coilovers are largely universal, so I offer them for all years of the Fiero. The only major difference is which set of holes in the strut hat I weld in the studs (84-87 have different bolt pattern than 88s, but the strut hats I use have both patterns).


I normally recommend springs in the 200 to 250 lb/in for those looking for close to stock level firmness.
I bias towards the lower end for stock engine/manual transmission applications and heavier engine/transmission swaps I bias toward the upper end.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-18-2020).]

Or build your own. See my web site for how I did mine.

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Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

quote Originally posted by ltlfrari: Or build your own. See my web site for how I did mine.

Thanks for the link, looks like it is working for you.

I think I will go with the FieroGuru setup though as his longer spring takes care of the issue of the spring needing the helper spring to stay somewhat compressed when there is no load - at least that is my understanding.

quote Originally posted by DimeMachine: Thanks for the link, looks like it is working for you. I think I will go with the FieroGuru setup though as his longer spring takes care of the issue of the spring needing the helper spring to stay somewhat compressed when there is no load - at least that is my understanding.

For a given ride height, installing a longer spring (of the same spring rate) does not eliminate any possible play of the spring. With a 2" longer spring, to maintain the same ride height, you end up with the threaded adjusters 2" lower, and you're back at square one with exactly the same play.

You need to reduce the initial spring rate to reduce play for a given ride height, either with the main spring, or by adding a helper spring (having a very low rate).

Flipping the strut hat will reduce how far the shock body can extend relative to the shock tower. Fieroguru can do this mod when you order a kit from him, but anyone else can do it too.

The longer spring is to eliminate coil bind or so I thought.

Springs being loose at full droop is a function of spring rate, ride height, and strut hat flipped or not flipped. Stiffer springs, lower stance, and stock strut hat orientation all make the springs more prone to be loose at full droop.

Shorter springs are more prone to coil bind before full strut compression unless they are very stiff and often require moving the adjuster sleeve above the weld bead, which will have an impact on how low you can go (especially with the increased stiffness), which means shorter springs are needed for the stance, which with either need to be stiffer, or more prone to coil bind.

Lots of nuances to consider for the optimal setup.

For example, here is my car with 18/30/285 rear tires (24.8" diameter), 12x250lb/in rear springs, flipped hat:


Here are the springs/struts at full droop. Springs are tight w/o needing helper springs:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 10-28-2020).]