Removing the pins is super easy with the right tool. Watch this YouTube video.

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Stanton
'88 Formula, red on gray

If I remember correctly from the last time I serviced the brakes on my '88 Formula, the caliper pins don't need to be removed prior to separating the caliper halves. That's because the pins are tight in only one half, and relatively loose in the other. Just remove the two bolts and pull the halves apart.

The pins themselves are just for alignment purposes. They don't hold the caliper halves together.

I wouldn't split the caliper to change the pads. Even if you do, you still need to pop the pins. Best to pop the pins, remove the caliper, and proceed with changing the pads. Work smarter, not harder. You can literally punch them out, but pulling them out is easier. Just use the right tool. Nothing really special about the thing. Most DIY guys can make one without special tools. You only need a small tap and die. A welder would be helpful, but it's not necessary. I paid thirteen bucks for the tool on eBay.

Instead of reusing the factory pins, get the aftermarket pins that use cotter pins vs friction. Those are even easier to remove.

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Stanton
'88 Formula, red on gray

[This message has been edited by oneinch (edited 11-08-2020).]

quote Originally posted by oneinch: I wouldn't split the caliper to change the pads. Even if you do, you still need to pop the pins. ...

No you don't.
Remove the bridge bolts. Pull the front / bridge. Pull the outside pad. Pull the rotor. Pull the inside pad.
Unless the rotor is rusted to the hub, you're talking about five minutes or so.
Assembly, as they say, is the reverse.

Lather rinse repeat.

But having the tool would certainly be useful, if you have to pull a pin.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-08-2020).]

Of course you have to remove the pins. They're connected to each side of the caliper and run through the pads. I choose to do things the easy way. Feel free not to. By not removing the pins first thing you are working harder, not smarter.

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Stanton
'88 Formula, red on gray

Yes, 88 Pins and clips only keep pads quietly in place. Pads transfer Brake loads at the edges of pad metal to the caliper then to caliper sliders. Unlike sliders for 84-87 Fiero and similar, 88 Fiero Sliders take full brake loads.

The Tools needed here are GM/Kent-moore:
J-6125-1B "small" side hammer tool
J-36620 pin puller

While many side hammers works, the pin puller (and J-36621 and others) is only on Eflay etc often at high $.
Might make one using correct size Bike Spokes etc. Most Spokes use harden metal and already threaded.

Alternate is use a Roll Pin Punch on back to remove. Should fit since above "nut" will need same room to work in pin hole but maybe no room for punch or hammer in the car w/o removing the caliper from bracket.
These are made different then standard pin punch w/ square ends. Don't use standard punch or worse center punch.
Right RPP has to fit and just under hole diam to push out roll pin w/o damage. RPP has part to stay centered on the pin but some pins don't play well because pin specs vs punch specs.

Related Items:
J-36621 Piston Rotator Wrench for Rear brakes is so "Dealers" can replace pads w/o taking calipers and rotors off the car.
Many fools do just that and owners have frozen slider and other problems because didn't clean them & lube w/ brake grease etc.

Can use modified version of clamp method w/ removing P-brake lever for rear. Have to replace big clamp because that won't fit. Might use big "pump pliers" but watch won't tear a boot etc. See my Cave, Clamp Method notes

⚠️ Warning: Removing the "bridge" bolts isn't a good idea.
Every time you take them out and put in the thread will wear and can cause huge problems w/o further warning.
You should Not Do This even to rebuilt them. GM made tools to rebuilt w/o removing the bridge...
J-36622 boot install tool
J-36623 piston installer also use w/ J-36622. Think this tool should also work using "clamp method" to fully retract the pistons.
Likely make both of them. Example: I make many seal installers using cut down plumbing parts/pipes w/ most are plastic.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-12-2020).]

quote Originally posted by oneinch: By not removing the pins first thing you are working harder, not smarter.

We'll just have to agree to disagree.

From 18+ years ago...

quote Originally posted by mrfiero Here: SIGH! I have said this over and over again, but here it is again. You do not.....I repeat, do not have to remove the spring pins EVER! Unless they got damaged or are otherwise bent you do not (and should not) have to ever remove them for any reason. To change pads all you need to do is split the caliper and pop off the outer half. Remove the outer pad and rotor......if the rotor is on there tight then remove the caliper body from the spindle (T-55 torx) and whack the rotor off with a sledge hammer (resurface/replace it, of course). Now you can remove the inner pad. Nowhere in that procedure do you need to remove the pins. I have owned numerous Fieros, including some 2 dozen '88s, over the past 12 years and I have never removed one single spring pin on the calipers. Save yourself the hassles and headaches and just avoid this......it is the most unnecessary thing you can do!

quote Originally posted by Patrick: We'll just have to agree to disagree. From 18+ years ago... [QUOTE]Originally posted by mrfiero Here: SIGH! I have said this over and over again, but here it is again. You do not.....I repeat, do not have to remove the spring pins EVER! Unless they got damaged or are otherwise bent you do not (and should not) have to ever remove them for any reason. To change pads all you need to do is split the caliper and pop off the outer half. Remove the outer pad and rotor......if the rotor is on there tight then remove the caliper body from the spindle (T-55 torx) and whack the rotor off with a sledge hammer (resurface/replace it, of course). Now you can remove the inner pad. Nowhere in that procedure do you need to remove the pins. I have owned numerous Fieros, including some 2 dozen '88s, over the past 12 years and I have never removed one single spring pin on the calipers. Save yourself the hassles and headaches and just avoid this......it is the most unnecessary thing you can do!

The pins are a tight fit in the rear half of the calipers only. They are quite loose in the front half.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-09-2020).]

First, I want to point out that my OP was just demonstrating pulling the pins using the correct tool. That's it. Nothing else.

Second, on an '88 (no comment on 84-87), there's no way to get a pad out of the caliper without removing the pins*. The pins are mounted in both halves of the caliper and they also run through the pads. The pads are captured by the pins.

*If the caliper is split, the pins only have to be removed from the inside OR outside half, but not both halves. By splitting the caliper you'll remove the pins from one of halves otherwise the caliper isn't split. The pads can then be slid off the pins. If the pins are left intact with each half of the caliper, the pads are not coming out of the caliper. Do it this and you're working harder, not smarter. I have the tool to make pulling the pins as easy as pulling out the cigarettes lighter. Smarter, not harder.

quote Originally posted by oneinch: First, I want to point out that my OP was just demonstrating pulling the pins using the correct tool. That's it. Nothing else.

And it was a great demonstration... for anyone who wants to pull the pins.

quote Originally posted by oneinch: If the pins are left intact with each half of the caliper, the pads are not coming out of the caliper. Do it this and you're working harder, not smarter.

I don't know why you're pursuing this. I suspect you aren't understanding what we're saying. When the two bridge bolts (per caliper) are removed, the two halves of the caliper easily separate... as the pins are only tight in the back half. The front half of the caliper and the outside pad slide off the pins. Remove the rotor, and now the inside pad slides off the pins. Reverse the procedure for installation. Done. No pounding or pulling of pins required.

quote Originally posted by oneinch: First, I want to point out that my OP was just demonstrating pulling the pins using the correct tool. That's it. Nothing else.

Thanks for the info but as always someone has a better way to do IT. Doesn't matter if you do an incredible swap they have a better way to do it.

There are several reasons people have migrated to just removing the 2 bridge bolts and keeping the pins installed in the caliper body.

1. The backing plate of the pad can rust below the bridge surface and make that portion of the pad wider than the opening in the bridge for it to pass through, which can make it difficult to pull the pads out the top.
2. Many aftermarket pads need a little clearancing of the sides to fit properly in the bridge. Doing the test fit and addressing any clearance work is easier to do with the bridge off the car.
3. Installing the pins and pads with the rotor and caliper on the car requires holding the pads in place, sliding the pins through the bridge, and installing the clips/springs really could use a 3rd hand.
4. The proper way to do a brake job is to also resurface the rotors or replace them along with the pad. Since the rotor can't come off with caliper in place, you have to remove 2 bolts from the caliper, but now you have a choice.

To remove the rotors, you must do one of these two items.
Remove the 2 caliper to knuckle bolts.
Remove the 2 caliper to bridge bolts.

It is the same work to remove 2 bolts, but removing the bridge bolts changes how the pads need to be removed as well as reinstalled. The bridge is relatively loose to the pins, so it will normally slide off and keep the pins in the caliper body. This allows the outer pad to slide off the 2 pins, rotor to be pulled off, and the inboard pad to be slid off. While the bridge is off the car, you can test fit the pads into the bridge slot and make any needed clearance adjustments (this is often needed with aftermarket pads). When you are ready to install the everything, just line up the inboard pad with its spring/clip to the 2 pins, and slide it in place. Install the rotor, then install the outboard pad the same as the inboard. Last is installing the bridge over the pads and lining up the two pins. The bolts can be used to pull it all together and fully insert the pins in the bridge.

So while the slide hammer and special tool makes it easier to remove the pins (I don't think anyone is disputing this), this is only one step in the overall brake job process. Removing the 2 bolts from the bridge eliminates the need to remove the pins from the caliper body, reduces challenges with the pad removal, gives you better access to do any needed pad clearancing, and makes it easier to install the pads and springs/clips.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-12-2020).]