So the yellow power wire to the radio has no power to it. -Tested for open, wire checked out. -Tested fuse and it was good, but no power to the fuse. - checked in accy and run, no power. - the wiper fuse has the same issue. Any suggestions on where to go from here?
Overall, you really need a copy of the GM manual. Get one on Ebay or the like. You didn't say what year yours is, but assuming it's NOT an '84 and is otherwise like my '87, here's a copy of the relevant page that's easier to read than the above. (I'm old and really like easy to read )
See "Hot in accy or run" on the left; says "3 BRN" and goes to pin A on the ignition switch. Check voltage both ends of that wire, and then start considering the switch.
Note that the switch can be adjusted slightly as the pushrods are never quite perfect, get bent and such with age and use. My experience with the Saginaw columns is that when the switch is out of adjustment it usually manifests as a no-start, or you have to crank the key really hard to get the switch to engage. Be odd to manifest as losing *some* functions, but hey, it's a Fiero, odd is what we do. Worst case, unplug the connectors on the switch and re-seat them. Free, if not exactly easy (unless you enjoy being upside down and have arms like a midget and six elbows.)
-- A
[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 01-06-2021).]
If brown wire's pin in the connector at the fuse box has power, then the problem is in the fuse box. Btw, my car had a few iffy fuse holders in the fuse box.
So You have power on both ends of brown wire as show above? But Not power for 2 fuses?
Replace both fuses if not done already. Fuses can fail in several ways and may test is "good" but isn't. Use Littlefuse or other good brands. No brand like most sold at "dollar stores" have more problem w/ cheap made.
Does fuses go in very easy? If tested fuse "box" w/ crap tester like has think probes then maybe damage to the plugs.
Must disconnect battery before this step... Many Fuse plugs are tied together in the block. You have to make several "tool" to release them all before will pull out the back. Think is same thing in See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes but that only has 1 wire to a terminal. Not sure has TPA either and not looking in my car. If same method need to make 2 or more tools.
Once you get it out of box. put a fuse in it. if not tight may try care use pliers.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
So You have power on both ends of brown wire as show above? But Not power for 2 fuses?
Replace both fuses if not done already. Fuses can fail in several ways and may test is "good" but isn't. Use Littlefuse or other good brands. No brand like most sold at "dollar stores" have more problem w/ cheap made.
Does fuses go in very easy? If tested fuse "box" w/ crap tester like has think probes then maybe damage to the plugs.
Must disconnect battery before this step... Many Fuse plugs are tied together in the block. You have to make several "tool" to release them all before will pull out the back. Think is same thing in See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes but that only has 1 wire to a terminal. Not sure has TPA either and not looking in my car. If same method need to make 2 or more tools.
Once you get it out of box. put a fuse in it. if not tight may try care use pliers.
So I installed a keyless entry system and it works fine, but this issue came up after the install. The manufacturer says that the actual key position doesn't matter for operation, but to leave it on accy to prevent the steering from locking. I was out checking things out earlier and I turned the key to run just to see what would happen, and I got power to the yellow radio wire, but only with the key turned all the way forward. Unfortunately, the wiper and inst lights still have no power at the fuse box.
Originally posted by Chief08: So I installed a keyless entry system and it works fine, but this issue came up after the install. The manufacturer says that the actual key position doesn't matter for operation, but to leave it on accy to prevent the steering from locking. I was out checking things out earlier and I turned the key to run just to see what would happen, and I got power to the yellow radio wire, but only with the key turned all the way forward. Unfortunately, the wiper and inst lights still have no power at the fuse box.
Again... Brown Wire has Power Both Ends? I Didn't Asked if tested w/ 0Ω on the wire and other reason(s) or Power to the fuses.
Because likely have no Power on I-switch end too for this quote.
When, not If, is True... I-switch Likely Is you problem. ● Maybe I-switch is iffy. I-switch is made of several switches and 1 can be Iffy or dead. ● Often the Steering Column has iffy or bad parts. GM tilt column has several known prolbems and multiple issues can make I-switch not hitting acc, start or both. May not work right in other positions. See my Cave, Steering and if has AT, See my Cave, Auto Shifter but leave I-switch untouched right now. ● Or could be both.
You need to loosen the column just to back probe the I-switch to read Power on brown wire. More like... Remove bottom dash trim, Loosen upper 9/16" bolts column to dash frame, Loosen lower 9/16" nuts, now Remove upper 9/16" bolts to get access to the I-switch.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-07-2021).]
Does the problem go away if you disconnect the keyless entry? Also, as Ogre mentioned, it would be helpful to know how and where you have done your wiring tests (one example, have you tested the resistance between the now powerless fuse and the brown wire).
The brown wire has good continuity and power from pin to pin. I cant/ won't disconnect the keyless entry as all of the connections have already been soldered etc. The physical key switch is no longer supposed have any effect anything anymore however, when turned to run position the yellow radio wire has power. When in any other position no power to yellow. Brown has power when start button is pressed to the acct, or run positions. I have connected the power (2 red), ignition (pink), accy (orange), and starter (yellow) wires from the ign switch to thier corresponding wires on the iKey system. I'm not really sure what to do with the remaining wires, according to the manufacturer, I should be able to remove the ign switch completely.
There should always be zero ohms between the brown wire and at least one of the 'radio' fuse female connectors in the fuse box. To protect your meter, measure that path with battery power disconnected.
What color wire is referred by you as "NA" or similar ? It appears this should be your brown wire to the fuse box.
I'm not sure what you mean, I don't remember referring to any wire as N/A. The brown wire is an accessory wire the goes from the ignition switch directly to the fuse bow where it branches into 3 wires that feed the radio, wipers, and instrument panel. With my test light, I get power on all 3 branches of the brown wire, but not the radio, wiper, and instrument panel. There is no open, or short in the brown wire either, very strange.
It's not strange at all if there is a wire break in the Fuse Box between the radio and wiper fuses, and the FB connector with the single brown wire. Where are you seeing three brown wires? Are you talking about the Heat/AC output wires from the Fuse Box?
It's not strange at all if there is a wire break in the Fuse Box between the radio and wiper fuses, and the FB connector with the single brown wire. Where are you seeing three brown wires? Are you talking about the Heat/AC output wires from the Fuse Box?
I didn't connect the accessory 2 wire because I didn't think is needed to be done, see pic.
Also, here is a pic of the back side of the fuse box where I have marked the three branches of the brown wire.
[This message has been edited by Chief08 (edited 01-09-2021).]
Did you connect your iKey to one of these three brown wires? If so, you may have connected to the wrong wires as those may be the ones serving power to the HVAC system. There is fourth brown wire behind the three browns, seen in the center of your three white dots, and that may be the main power feed to the radio and wiper. Your indicated brown wires could back feed power through the Fiero's ignition switch to the radio, which may account for why the factory switch needs to be operated to supply power to the radio.
Since I have sold my Mera I cannot check this fourth brown wire function physically for you, and am limited to using the factory diagram like the one above posted by dremu.
Did you connect your iKey to one of these three brown wires? If so, you may have connected to the wrong wires as those may be the ones serving power to the HVAC system. There is fourth brown wire behind the three browns, seen in the center of your three white dots, and that may be the main power feed to the radio and wiper. Your indicated brown wires could back feed power through the Fiero's ignition switch to the radio, which may account for why the factory switch needs to be operated to supply power to the radio.
Since I have sold my Mera I cannot check this fourth brown wire function physically for you, and am limited to using the factory diagram like the one above posted by dremu.
I have finally fixed the issue. I connected the brown wire from the ignition switch to the the orange accy wire and e erything seems to be working as it should. Thank you.
[This message has been edited by Chief08 (edited 01-11-2021).]
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