85 GT Auto Got in my car after work today (just drove it to work this morning) turned the key to start the car but got nothing. No dash/idiot lights , no headlights, no power windows, nothing. Absolutely no power at all. Car is completely dead. Car was driving fine. Never had a problem like this ever. Since it’s an auto, I moved the ignition switch forward so that I could move the shift linkage back and forth but no luck. Battery is in very good shape, didn’t leave any lights on, etc.
Any ideas what could cause this condition? I will be bringing an ohmmeter, test leads and a flashlight to work. (it’s sitting in front of our bldg.)
Anything else I should bring? What should I test / check out? And yes, I have AAA but I want to see if I can find out the problem before giving up and calling for a tow. Thanks, Kit
Typically this happens to me its a bad terminal connection. Pull the terminals clean.
Edit:
Also find the other end of the negative cable that is bolted to the engine and clean that up too and make sure the grounding strap going from there to the chassis is not broken and connection is clean.
[This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 02-01-2021).]
Yes, I will check the grounds, battery terminals and voltage. Just remembered that I really need to check the terminal box which is near the old battery location. (Both of my Fiero’s have the relocated battery in the front) Thanks, Kit
Hard to believe, but the entire car is powered by the smaller wire off the positive battery cable to the battery junction terminal. That distributes all power to all circuits including headlights. The main positive cable goes straight to the starter.
I've had the same problem. Check for rust or breaks in the wires here. (note: 84's don't have this - all fusible links are connected at the starter)
You state that the Battery is good....But that you need to bring a Ohmmeter, etc...Have you checked the battery for actual power? If I remember correctly, you have switched your Fieros to the 87-88 HL motor system.....My Battery got drained twice by one of the HL motors running at night- started AFTER I left the garage.
Fierosound....You and I are on the same wavelength. I strongly suspect the C500 box junction as it has been raining quite a bit lately, my car is always outside and since I removed my vent cover screens a long time ago, it makes it even easier for water to get at that connector. And, the C500 plug box is all wet. I’m thinking water got in there and blew out one of the fusible links. Speaking of fusible links, a simple continuity test will show if it’s blown?
CvxJet, yes you remember correctly. Both of my Fiero’s have relocated batteries up front and upgraded gen 2 motors. First thing I checked last night when the car was dead to see if the motors were hot. They were not. Thanks, Kit
Ok, I have a bunch of questions but first let me say that I called Winchester Auto Parts and I asked them about fusible links. They have two types and they are sold by wire color and they are sold on a roll. They stock the two most common sizes. (but since they just remodeled the store they can only find one type which is 12 gauge / blue color.
Question #1 A simple continuity test on both sides of the fusible link black plug splice is all I need to do to determine if it’s blown?
Question # 2 I am going to assume it’s one of the two battery wire fusible links. If it is, I would need a red color fusible link? Or just substitute/ put in a 10 gauge fusible link? (whatever color 10 gauge is)
Question #3 If fusible link comes on a roll, it doesn’t matter then how much or how little I splice in to the blown link?
Sorry, I know very little about fusible links and I need a lot of guidance.
Kit
[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 02-02-2021).]
If you have no power at all, the problem would be that
1. Both links to the chassis harness from the BJT are blown. (A and B in the picture above)
2. The wire feeding power from the battery to the BJT is bad.
3. The BJT is corroded.
I suspect number 2
A note - the C500 is waterproof, unless someone has cleaned all of the waterproofing paste from it. Regardless, no circuits that pass them the the C500 would cause your problem.
Question: Fusible link wires A & B. They both go to the upper stud on the terminal block. Can I assume there is break / connection going the other way not much further downstream from the black splice thingie? I also assume I will need to graft in a section of new fusible wire. I heard that the length of wire should not exceed 9 inches. Thanks, Kit
[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 02-03-2021).]
That's the proper name for the terminal box we are discussing.
The two posts on the BJT are connected by a strap with two holes. This strap is at the end of the heavy cable from the alternator charge post. There is also a cable from the battery positive terminal.
When you get to your car, you need to use your test meter to determine if there is any power at the BJT.
Im still anxiously awaiting the solution. Im still betting on loose corroded terminal of some sort. I really really doubt you blew a fusible link. Always keep Occam's Razor, in mind “the simplest solution is almost always the best.” goes the other way for troubleshooting. Don't overlook the small easy simple stuff.
Ok....You need to do a couple of tests to see what is going on;
1) Test for power at the junction block (See picture)
2) If you have power there, then use a small needle and push it thru the wires at the spots indicated one at a time and see if you have power on teh other side of the Fusible link.
Ok guys...I was able to get outside to check a few things: I checked the JBT studs first - NO POWER Took out the spare in the front and checked actual battery voltage at the battery terminals- 7.78 volts!
Yes, 7.78 is way to low but it would cause there to be nothing at the ignition key and nothing at the junction box posts??
Two fyi’s..... I verified the battery Ground cable connection to the frame rail. (It’s fine) When I turn the ignition key, I notice a tiny bit of needle movement at the aux gauge pkg. I upgraded my 85 to the aux gauge pkg. Thanks, Kit
[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 02-04-2021).]
Took out the spare in the front and checked actual battery voltage at the battery terminals- 7.78 volts!
Yes, 7.78 is way to low but it would cause there to be nothing at the ignition key and nothing at the junction box posts??
Sounds like you've checked all the wiring / connections so I'm guessing it's a bad battery, bad alternator, or a severely discharged battery. I recently tried to start one of my GT's after it had set for a while (body panels removed for sanding and painting). Got nothing when I turned the key. No clicks from the starter solenoid, no courtesy lights and no chimes from the blue thingy-dingy. Checking the battery voltage at the terminals gave me a little over 8-volts. When I connected my digital battery charger, it would not register as being connected and gave me error codes. I took the battery out and connected it to my old Craftsman 10-amp battery charger (I have to run it through a stepdown transformer, here). It pegged the needle but the battery began to take a charge. When the voltage got to 11 volts, I switched to a deep charge cycle. 24-hours later it was holding at 12.6-volts.
You may be lucky like I was but I suggest you pull the battery and have it tested. You could have a couple of shorted cells. By the way, did you try to jump start the car? If so, did it start? Can you get it to someplace where they can test the battery and the alternator?
Good luck. I don't envy you. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to find.
Ok, so I went to Wallymart and got a battery. She started right up no problem. 😆 I have a theory that two plates in the battery somehow shorted together which brought it down to 7.78 volts. Maybe a combination of cheap battery construction and maybe also that my car is lowered and tends to ride a little hard and maybe shaking the innards of the battery?
Anyways, big lesson learned is never to assume and that even if your battery in your Fiero reads 8 volts, it is (in my case) not enough volts to register anything when you turn the key. And I mean NOTHING. Thanks to all of you for your patience with me and all of your help! Kit
Tomorrow morning check your battery for voltage again- better to be sure there isn't a drain somewhere......And Olejoedad is correct; The "New" optima batteries are crap....("We have the name- why not cut content and sell on name for a year or two and then file for bankruptcy....Haha")
