I'm putting my Fiero on 4 jack stands (no wheels and tires) for a week. I've worked on cars for 40 years and have common sense, but I wanted to ask if anyone had suggestions on the "proper" or "ideal" placement on the frame/cradle to support it for good stability/balance, thanks.

(also plan to putting a few 4x4 pieces in other areas just in case one of the jack stands would fail)

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 05-14-2021).]

Save the chart image in your files. Every time you take it to a place to be serviced, print 2 copies. Place 1 in the driver's seat and give the other to the service writer.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/143481.html

Thanks for the link...

I'm not taking it to get serviced and I'm familiar with Fiero jack points, I'm putting it on 4 jack stands and was just looking for ideal balance points, thanks.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 05-14-2021).]

I would put two jack stands at the rear on the cradle and two near the front on the channel reinforcements in the unibody or on the cross member. When we use the two post Rotary lift the lift points are on the cradle and body channel. When we drop the cradle the lift points on the rear are the jack points

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

See my Cave, Safe Jacking & Jacking to Clear Engine
Likely use 4 points far apart.

⚠️ Warning: Unless you do this on Level Concrete surface, Jack Stands can/will Move under load over time. Time can mean minutes, hours, days or longer.
Asphalt and dirt often hates point loads from anything. Worse if they get hot or wet.

Most people don't know that Asphalt never dries. Is a super thick fluid that will flow even in cold weather but you won't see that normally, likely not even in you're lifetime. In very hot weather... Any w/ high heels can have problems. That isn't just a gimmick from movies.
If it does "dry out," the road or whatever is very old and turning to dirt.
Related to "The Pitch Drop Experiment," just web search that name.

But when you point/edge load, bad things often happen even at "room temps" depending on exact surface.
3 or 4 leg stand and wheels on jacks can sink fast and often don't sink at same rate letting the top to shift or drop the load w/ little or no warning.
Semi Trailer can sink the jacks on front of trailers too. Is why many drivers have big wood pieces to spread the jacks footprint on iffy pavement etc.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: I would put two jack stands at the rear on the cradle and two near the front on the channel reinforcements in the unibody or on the cross member. When we use the two post Rotary lift the lift points are on the cradle and body channel. When we drop the cradle the lift points on the rear are the jack points

Thanks, just to clarify... are you suggesting Example A or Example B in images below?

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 05-14-2021).]

A). But use discretion if you're working on something. e.g. Don't block what you're working on.

Skybax, Example A has 8 locations indicated for safety (jack) stands, 4 of which you circled.

I included the suggestion for printing out the graphic in the event you ever did have to take it to a service department. Maybe to get a new set of tires, perhaps?

I prefer supporting on the blue circles below and jacking on the red. The orange rectangle represents where I like to support with a 4x4 on jack stands for a cradle drop.



Edit.

Also be careful when putting the whole car in the air. Make sure your stands are not tilting. If your jack gets hung up and is not rolling freely it can push the car and rock the stand or cause it to shift on the stands.

[This message has been edited by skywurz (edited 05-15-2021).]

When I jack the Fiero up, I put the floor jack under the front crossmember or the back of the rear subframe(I even marked dead-center on the frame). When I place the jack-stands I put them as far out on the front crossmember or on the two rear corners of the rear subframe.

Critically, when I drop the car onto the stands at the rear (With the front on the ground) it will move forward, so I always place chocks in front and back of tires on end left on the ground...after lifting but before lowering, I move chocks if needed to make sure there is no large shifting of car during lowering. After I lower the car, but before removing jack completely, I grab car and give it a shake to make sure it is solidly supported.

If you place jacks as shown in FRONT of the engine, those stands will be supporting most of the car's weight- 1500 lb stands are not strong enough. I would use 3000 lb to 3 ton stands...Better to be safe than.....squished!

While working at NAS Alameda, one of my co-workers was working on his RV.....His >>CAR<< jack-stands failed.................>>End of story<<

quote Originally posted by skywurz: I prefer supporting on the blue circles below and jacking on the red.

That is exactly how I would have done it, was just curious what others do for optimum balance/stability points.

quote Originally posted by cvxjet: 1500 lb stands are not strong enough. I would use 3000 lb to 3 ton stands...Better to be safe than.....squished!

Good tip for many folks out there, I only use 3 ton myself for most cars, and I would never lay/work under a car that was only supported by jack stands.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: I included the suggestion for printing out the graphic in the event you ever did have to take it to a service department. Maybe to get a new set of tires, perhaps?

I've never taken my hobby car to have tires put on or be serviced, I don't even like others working on my daily driver. I do 95% of my own work, having somebody else work on my car is last resort. Over the last 40 years I either mounted them myself when I worked as a technician, or these days I just take them the wheels, hence the purpose of having car on jack stands for a week or more, which I'm not happy about. To elaborate... I'm pulling wheels, take wheels to local garage to dismount tires, take wheels to be stripped in a soak tank, I'll polish machined lip, paint and clear coat wheels, take restored wheels and new mail-order tires to be mounted, then reinstall. This is probably the 20th set of wheels I've restored (different makes/models) and normally I would strip them myself, but I'm getting older and don't want to deal with intricate diamond spoke webbing, so stripping via soak tank is easier way to go on GT wheels.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 05-15-2021).]