'88 V6 exhaust questions.... Remove and (especially) reinstall/replace the system. I pulled my engine. The exhaust system was the LAST thing I removed from the cradle. It came off in one piece. I have since reinstalled the engine, but I did so without reinstalling the exhaust. I was thinking it would slide into place no problem. This doesn't seem to be the case. Has anyone reinstalled their exhaust - all in one piece with the engine in the car? I suspect this can not be done. So......
Replacement system. Since a new exhaust is in multiple pieces it'll go in to place pretty easy. I guess I might be buying a new system. I don't think cutting up the OEM system and stitching it back together is worth while. Regarding the Fiero Store Ocelot system: who has installed the ALUMINIZED and less expensive version? I am searching for durability reviews. This car won't be a daily driver. doubtful it'll be driven in the rain or wet winter. Just nice and dry conditions only. I'm thinking the less expensive aluminized pipe will be just fine. Opinions?
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
By the exhaust system do you mean everything including the manifolds or just the pipes and mufflers? If its just the pipes and mufflers you can try supporting the system with a few springs and then bolting the head pipe to the crossover pipe. As for replacing the system with a new one, I recommend degreasing it and spraying it with high temp ceramic paint. Once that system heats up the coating will be long lasting.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
My cat pipe and cat back sections are welded together. It's not going back in as one piece. No way. I could cut the cat pipe off and butt clamp back together. In fact this is what I'm going to do, but I'll replace the cat pipe section with new pieces. The cat back sections will go into place without the cat pipe section. A butt clamp will work in the short term, if not long term too. I can get it welded later.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
I installed the Fiero Store Ocelot aluminized exhaust in my '88 GT in 2016 or '17. I like it and it's still looking about as new as it could be, given 5 years and about 22k miles. Not showing any rust, but I am in Colorado and don't drive it in snow (or heavy rain, unless caught in it). I like it, At the time, I replaced everything from the Y-pipe back.
What I took out:
Notice the cut just before the muffler (and the seriously wrecked cat). I tried to take the entire exhaust out in one piece, and only failed because I had the rear on jack stands and did not have enough clearance at the headpipe (top hit the floor). Since I knew I wasn't re-using any of it, I used a sable saw to cut it in the most convenient place (exhaust was on the ground under the car) so I could tip the front half and drag it out. If I had the front and rear of the car off the ground, it would easily have come out in one piece.
Regarding the Ocelot system, it al went in pretty easily. I used a Walker 15026 cat (currently $119.71 on Amazon, was much cheaper a few years ago). I had to add a pipe to make up for the length of this small cat relative to the larger stock one I think the Ocelot was designed for (but not what was in the car when I bought it), and (iirc) I had to trim an inch or so off the pipe that runs along the passenger side, but then it all fit. I have hangers that I built from the OE brackets and universal hangers in the back, and about half of the OE springs installed (couldn't make the others fit). But it's solidly mounted and no bad resonances in the cabin.
It sounds good, with a nice low tone, but I can't compare it to stock because I've never heard an intact stock one myself. Also,I do not have stock tips; I used 2" to 2-1/2" adapters and some elbows and these tips
which I really like, although your stock tips are in much better shape than mine were and it would be a simpler install for you to re-use them. My system is all held together with clamps. I was going to have it welded, but not after I was quoted over $400 for the job (in 2017). But the clamps are working.
I have a brand new Fiero Store 88 cat delete headpipe that's more than the length of the converter all the way to the exhaust. Just cut it after the cat , clamp and you're in business. I paid $49.00 for it with shipping and tax. Its yours for $30.00 and I might be down your way on Friday. If Interested you have my cell phone so just just call or text.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
It came out easy so why would it not go right back in unless you modified something? Anyway I've removed the exhaust on several Fieros probably 5 times and put right back in without any problems whatsoever. Not tooting my horn just not comprehending why it wouldn't go in.
The exhaust was last out, but not first in. I'm trying to put it in last. It was easy to remove it from an empty cradle. With the engine in the cradle it's a no go. Look at the picture above. Top of the muffler and the head pipe lean in towards one another. The space between these two points is more narrow than the cradle and engine. I've decided to cut the exhaust and clamp it back together. One cut is all that's needed. Not an ideal solution, but it'll work for the short term.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
I've always removed the exhaust as one piece from the crossover connection downpipe back with the cradle and engine still in the car. I can see your cat has been replaced and welded in and to me it looks like the downpipe connectionis angled rearward more than mine were. How does that fit to the downpipe? It is at an angle at the donut gasket when it was mounted? But a factory exhaust even with aftermarket cat should come off and back on the car mounted cradle, no problem. I've had two complete exhausts with the massive factory cat still attached and had no problems even with that. With an aftermarket cat it's even easier because those are typically clamped on and one clamp can be removed to leave the downpipe attached. All but one of mine were 88s as well. I'm glad you've got things figured out though.
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 09-10-2021).]
What am I having trouble with? You'll need to read the previous posts. In short I'm not having trouble. There is a problem. I have a solution. I'll apply the solution today or tomorrow.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
I ran into the same problem with my 88 GT earlier this summer when I dropped the exhaust to fix a couple of leaks. I was able to remove the entire exhaust easily enough -- took a bit of wriggling it around but it ended up dropping out easily enough.
Installation was the complete opposite. No matter how I aligned it, I couldn't get the muffler past the rear of the cradle and into position if I placed the headpipe above/in front of the front cradle cross beam. Same issue when I tried placing the muffler in position first -- the headpipe would then not clear the front of the cradle. I was about to cut the exhaust to get it installed and then clamp it, but I figured that I would try one more thing which ended up working for me. I placed the muffler in roughly it's proper spot, and then while laying under the car and holding the muffler in position by hand, I used my foot to push the headpipe in front of the front cradle cross beam. There was just enough flex in the exhaust to accomplish this. After that, it was just a matter of reattaching all the exhaust mounts/springs and reconnecting the head pipe.
Keep in mind that this was all done in my garage with the Fiero up on jack stands. Chances are if I had the car up on a lift, there would have been enough room to maneuver the exhaust around to install it easily. I barely had enough room under the car for myself and the exhaust.
I have my exhaust installed. I wound up cutting the exhaust right below the engine. There is a short straight section there. The 2" butt clamp (about 3" long) clamped it back together nicely. Time will tell if this leaks, but at least it lets me move on. Those spring bolts were a BEAR! I compressed them in the vise and wire tied them compressed. This let me get them started and then I cut the wires. Anyhow, it is all installed except for one suspension spring in the rear. I'm using the Rodney Dickman spring tool. There was one spring I just couldn't get. If the tool was maybe 6" longer I could have. Two out three in the right rear will have to do.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
I had the Ocelot cat-back exhaust (the aluminized version) on my Fiero for over 10 years. I painted it with high-temp exhaust paint, for good measure. After 10 years of driving in Florida's humidity and daily rainstorms, it had virtually no rust. But as always, YMMV.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 09-14-2021).]
I had the Ocelot cat-back exhaust (the aluminized version) on my Fiero for over 10 years....
If I must replace the system I'll use this same exhaust. I'd prefer the stainless pipes, but it's not worth on this project. It's good to hear your 10 year review. I won't need it that long.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
Note: PA is heavy road salt state and drive in "good weather" cars can get some to a lot salt damage even in summer. Rain can take a long time just to wash pave roads and parking areas. May never "flush" salt from dirt near them and why often can see Snake grass and other salt tolerate plants far from the Ocean.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
