First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R. NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch.
two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid.
Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps. Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly.
Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column. Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car. See my Cave, Steering
If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment. See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead. ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.
First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R. NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch.
two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid.
Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps. Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly.
Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column. Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car. See my Cave, Steering
If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment. See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead. ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.
First try moving the shift level to N, then a bit to D or R. NS will allow to start in N but iffy levers/cables may need to play w/ the level to find N on the trans and NS switch.
two large wires there or just jump starter solenoid.
Note that starter solenoid draws 20-30 amps. Thin jumpers can/will fry instantly.
Very likely is not NS switch but Ignition lock, switch or other problem on the steering column. Iffy parts there can push/pull the switch enough to see Bulb Test activate but not far enough to start the car. See my Cave, Steering
If it really is problems w/ NS Switch first check adjustment. See my Cave, Neutral Safety Switch NSS has several functions and maybe 1 or more circuits are dead. ECM get input from it too and may trip "codes" if not working.
He's right, it's offline.
I was going to jumper the starter solenoid, except my blind ass can't SEE IT. Which is weird, it's not small. I've been looking for 45 minutes before giving up and driving back to the house.
Sigh. I'll have to try again later, when I'm off work. I'm just praying they don't tow me.
If you didn't say something to the owner etc then could be towed fast. More so if blocking anything.
Yes, Is only 2 big wires there...
take a volt meter or test light. black probe the NSS wires and start the car. May need a big needle to reach the "pin." Ground black probe. Meter doesn't read or light is off on each wire then not NSS problem. (or pierce the wire w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole to keep out water.)
Site is up here. Archive.org and/or Shorturl is rarely down but sometime either/both is slow and time out.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-20-2021).]
take a volt meter or test light. black probe the NSS wires and start the car. May need a big needle to reach the "pin." Ground black probe. Meter doesn't read or light is off on each wire then not NSS problem. (or pierce the wire w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole to keep out water.)
I'm not sure what you mean by "black probe the nss". Do you mean, using a multimeter, verify voltage at the NSS at each wire, while cranking?
blackback probe the NSS wires at connector without unplugging it. Carefully use a big needle around/thru soft "rubber" on back side of the plug. (Make sure needle isn't plastic coated or otherwise so red probe don't hit metal.) or pierce the wires w/ smaller needle to get at copper. then rub grease/oil on the tiny hole left behind to keep out water.
in both case Ground black probe to measure volts on the wires.
That suggestion makes as much sense in this situation as asking if you're out of gas. Sounds like something you might've been told on FB.
*snort* yep.
Well, I got it started. Had to cheat.
First, I tried to see if maybe the ignition switch was out of alignment. Took apart the column in the lot (which I didn't want to do, but....) and...not as far as I can tell.
Finally, I jacked it up and shorted the starter solenoid with a pair of pliers. Being under the car when it's cranking? Not so fun.
Now, she's in the driveway. Still won't turn over, but at least it's on home turf.
I disconnected it. Green and fuzzy (which I knew when I disconnected it yesterday).
Scrubbed with a toothbrush and white vinegar. Scrubbed again with baking soda and water to neutralize the vinegar. Chased with the end of a paperclip.
Popped it back on and...started right up. Trunk popper is working, too. It looks like one of the wires for the trunk popper goes directly to the switch, but I might be wrong about that.
I'm not going to drive it anywhere other than a big circle for a bit, to make sure this is solved, but for the moment, I'm hoping that it is.
I would have though that the dozen or so times I unplugged it and replugged it yesterday would have cleaned the pins enough to at least fire off (until I could get somewhere to clean it properly), but I guess not!
Pull Plug again and coat the metal w/ silicone or brake grease. Both are plastic friendly.
"Water" got in causing this and now metal isn't even "tinned."
I don't remember how that plug is made. Think the wire and "pin" are back loaded but can't remember what tool to release the "pin." Maybe same/similar to See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes
If Weather Pack type need a tubular tool to release them.
With "pins" out, you can see the wires and grease the crimp area too.
Years back I had a similar problem when I was 65 miles from home at the AACA /Das Awksfecht auto event. Kept car in park, t urned the key to on position, crawled under there and used a screwdriver to momentarily cross the solenoid and starter terminals. She started right up and I headed for home. Turned out the starter solenoid was bad so at my home garage, I just replaced with a new starter motor/solenoid ass'y.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
This time, unplugging and replugging the harness cleaned the pins enough to start her, but they were already green, again. Argh.
I suspect what I was seeing was corrosion bits that were already in the NSS, as opposed to new corrosion. I didn't remove the NSS to clean it, just the harness. I'll do that his weekend.
posting a follow-up, three years later: yes, the switch is bad. It's been bad, at the connector, and at least partially internally.
For two years I could get it going by half unplugging the harness and plugging it back in repeatedly to clean tarnish off from the contacts.
then that stopped working. I had a piece of wire I slipped into the unplugged harness to short the connection, start the car, and then plug the harness back in.
Last week I had enough; I would have done this sooner, but I read that removing the switch was a bear.
They weren't wrong, but it wasn't too bad. Once I removed the appropriate bolts, it came off with a tiny amount of complaint.
The switch definitely requires replacement, butI bought myself some time. Cleaned the contacts (externally and internally), new dielectric grease, and since the metal cover was degraded on one side, I opened it up, cleaned it all out, regreased it, and put it back together.
Hasn't started this well since I bought it.
I WILL replace the switch soon, but this got me out of "I'm annoyed with this" status.
On a related note, does anyone have the pinout for the remaining wires? One of the terminals was bent over and I don't think it's ever been making contact since I've owned it. Would love to know what I just unlocked, lol.
The purple wire on that connector is the output that connects +12V through to the starter solenoid (and the cold start injector). If you jumper that purple wire to the battery +12V post, it will crank the starter. This bypasses both the Neutral Switch and also the Ignition Switch in the steering column. This is a lot easier than crawling under the car to find the solenoid. I know, too late but it's worth knowing anyway. That diagram is for an 86 V6 but it's probably the same for any year. The 4cyl diagram for 86 also shows it the same. I was able to start my car this way when the linkage inside the column broke. But you still need to get it into the Run position. I could get it into Run, just not "Start". I think that's common.
On a manual, there should be a similar purple wire with the same function that comes out of the Clutch Start Switch. In that case you'd be inside the car so maybe there's a better place to get +12V from.
[This message has been edited by armos (edited 09-05-2024).]
A - B - black/white - GROUND C- D - dark blue - 12v from Turn B/U fuse E - light green - B/U lights F - yellow -solenoid signal from ignition switch G - purple - ignition switch signal to starter solenoid
Many years back my neutral safety switch went bad. I was at the large Macungie PA car event, and very fortunate the car was parked on uneven soil. I put the car in neutral , put the ignitiom on and crawled under the car with a flashlight, reached back with a screwdriver and jumped the battery connection to the starter solenoid. The car started right up and we got home. This could be done on a solid surface by jacking the car up but never trust the car jack without using a jack stand. This experience was just pure luck.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
