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Clutch bleeding problem 88 gt 5 getrag by zobari
Started on: 11-28-2021 01:04 PM
Replies: 4 (535 views)
Last post by: ZaraSpOOk on 11-29-2021 05:56 PM
zobari
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Report this Post11-28-2021 01:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zobariSend a Private Message to zobariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello everyone.

I have a very annoying problem with my fiero 88gt clutch bleed.

When, I bleed the hydraulic system of the front and rear clutch system (master and salve cylinder) after 30km the problem returned with air in the system.

What could be the problem, according to you?

The symptoms are that the gears don't shift at all.

The master and slave cynlinder is brand new from Rodney Dickman.

I bleed the front with the kit, then I've bleeded the rear with a pipe and oil and a
Jar to expel the air.

Then concerning the slave, I remove the rear bleed screw I push the mechanism of the rod then another person tightens and I let go and the problem disappears for a while then comes back ...

What do you think ?
Could this be a bad bleed?

Thank you in advance for your responses.

[This message has been edited by zobari (edited 11-28-2021).]

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mcguiver3
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Report this Post11-28-2021 02:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mcguiver3Send a Private Message to mcguiver3Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would see how much travel you have in the slave while its being actuated.
You need almost 3/4 to 1" of travel there.
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Skybax
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Report this Post11-28-2021 04:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SkybaxSend a Private Message to SkybaxEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Getrag will never see 1" of travel (impossible physics) unless you have the wrong slave on the car, see this thread from yesterday...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/145692.html

As far as bleeding goes, the way I do it for best results is, I have everything hooked up but the slave unbolted from the bracket, this way I can easily push the plunger into the slave with it pointing downward and the bleeder facing upward, with a clear tube going from the bleeder into a jar, drawing fluid from the master (acting like a vacuum power bleeder) and refilling master after every stroke, and doing it over and over until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles, and the final step is pushing the plunger into the slave and tighten the bleeder, then bolt the slave to the bracket.

If you are successfully bleeding the system with Rodney's parts and problem (air) returns, I would double check the hydraulic connections because the chances of the new master or slave being bad is unlikely (but not impossible).

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-28-2021).]

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zobari
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Report this Post11-29-2021 04:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for zobariSend a Private Message to zobariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello,

Thank you for your advices, i will check it.

Greeting
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ZaraSpOOk
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Report this Post11-29-2021 05:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ZaraSpOOkSend a Private Message to ZaraSpOOkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have no idea what the bleed procedure is with non stock parts, but you can bleed yourself with stock parts:
I use an old Xcountry ski pole to depress clutch with left hand, loosen and tighten bleed screw with right
most work on the Fiero is a pain in the butt, but bleedin' aint one of them
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