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How Hard is it to Rebuild the Fiero Rear Brake Calipers? by RotrexFiero
Started on: 12-25-2021 01:06 PM
Replies: 15 (338 views)
Last post by: RotrexFiero on 12-27-2021 09:24 AM
RotrexFiero
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Report this Post12-25-2021 01:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Everything is there in the headline
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Gall757
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Report this Post12-25-2021 01:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, I'd say on a scale of 100 it's about a 99. If you are not yet a certified mechanic, maybe you should not try.

Our resident expert, The Ogre, has written extensively on what is required......go to the Ogre's Cave and read lots of his advice.....and he should be along to to comment on your post shortly...... Merry Christmas!!
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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post12-25-2021 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, that could be said for the whole car. I am certainly not a certified mechanic, but I've pulled, rebuilt, and installed engines and such.

The reason I ask, from what I've noticed, parts have become rare for these cars. Especially the ones that are specific.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post12-25-2021 03:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RotrexFiero:

Well, that could be said for the whole car. I am certainly not a certified mechanic, but I've pulled, rebuilt, and installed engines and such.

The reason I ask, from what I've noticed, parts have become rare for these cars. Especially the ones that are specific.

Those calipers are rebuildable, and that is if you can get the pistons out without scoring the bore. Then you must locate the pistons and seals that may be hard to find. The old pistons are often broken from previous mechanics trying to use a brake pad compressor on them.

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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post12-25-2021 08:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I ordered two new one, but I am wondering if I should hang on to these old guys (the old calipers). They are getting rare.

Maybe I'll try to rebuild them in my spare time.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post12-25-2021 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RotrexFiero:

I ordered two new one, but I am wondering if I should hang on to these old guys (the old calipers). They are getting rare.

Maybe I'll try to rebuild them in my spare time.


Try to find the exploded diagram of the rear caliper that will show how all the parts fit together. I would always hold onto the cores.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
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Report this Post12-25-2021 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"How Hard is it to Rebuild the Fiero Rear Brake Calipers?"

"Rebuilding" by installing Seal Kits often has problems more so w/ aluminum shells. (Yes, Highlights in cave.)
Like Many think can "hone the bores" to use them but cause more headaches w/ aluminum shells. If they "hone them" then wreck them using wrong grit and more. Even "Cast Iron" shells don't need honing because bore does not touch the pistons. (Honing is often needed w/ iron slave cylinder bores in Drum Brakes because how they work.)

Many Al shells are too damage to fix by DIY and most "pros." But try anyway then blame the OEMs for brake problems.

So Seal kits can work IF some shell areas are very good. For rears, there are 2 critical areas.... Main "o-ring" groove and hole where P-brake screw goes thru. "Rust" or other damage then they often fails now or very soon. Also many Main o-ring groove isn't square but more like \_| with \ toward the pad to allow the ring to move when apply and act as a spring better.

Even w/ new pistons and seal kit, often installing can be harder then claimed. Especially P-brake screw likes to tear the o-ring going into the hole and leak now or very soon. Worse this leak is often not obvious until total fail and have sinking pedal at red light etc. Meanwhile Leaking fluid can attack alloy wheels.

Worse, Many also think can take apart "Fiero type" rear pistons to make them work. Often work for awhile then have low pedal to brake fail or wheel fire because F'ed rear piston drag the pads.

As is Many pistons have "blown out" backs for failing to self-adjust but use the clamp to retract and force the back down and hind the problem.
With a good clamp and done right, the clamp needs very little effort to retract the piston. Finger force or less. More then very likely have major problem w/ blown apart piston. Example:


Plus Seal Kits don't have slider "o-rings" and often need them. More so when someone use anything but Brake Grease in the slider holes.

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Report this Post12-25-2021 11:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The problem with the rear calipers is that they have an extra seal inside the piston that is part of the parking brake. Most rebuilders just ignore this seal and you buy a rebuilt caliper and then it usually leaks. There are threads on here that describe how to take apart the rear caliper piston.

------------------
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Report this Post12-25-2021 11:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RotrexFiero:

I ordered two new one, but I am wondering if I should hang on to these old guys (the old calipers). They are getting rare.

Maybe I'll try to rebuild them in my spare time.
Keep old ones and seal kits and new piston if you find them but Do Not install.
installing then storing often won't work month to years later.

That even when the piston is good etc.

Unless you take apart and let old fluid drain/dry then the fluid pulls water from air and "rust" everything.
If the old pistons are good now, may not be after months of storage.
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Report this Post12-26-2021 01:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for pmbrunelleSend a Private Message to pmbrunelleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:
Unless you take apart and let old fluid drain/dry then the fluid pulls water from air and "rust" everything.
If the old pistons are good now, may not be after months of storage.


Do you think it is good practice to store pistons in closed Mason jars?

Anyone with a welding setup could also fill the jar with welding gas before closing the lid. Argon is heavier than air, so it will stay down before the lid is screwed on.
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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post12-26-2021 08:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My calipers were functional before this brake issue. I had a bleeder screw break off and so I just purchased two new ones.

The rebuild kits, from what I'm seeing, are very inexpensive. Even if I take it to a machine shop, it may be a good option. I've seated pistons, rings, and cams in engines. How much harder can it be?

Why special storage? I have an M1 garand made in 1950 with no rust and fully functional. It's never been stored in a climate-controlled mason jar.

Interestingly, these are the original calipers, and so they are close to 35 years old. And, yes they were still working. If I can get that kinda mileage out of these ones, I guess I'm set for life.
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Report this Post12-26-2021 11:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the other nice thing about rebuilding, is this gives you a chance to do a really good job of painting the calipers.

but yes, it is a fussy task. but, for the low cost of a seal kit, it is most certainly worth it to at least try.
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Shho13
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Report this Post12-26-2021 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Shho13Send a Private Message to Shho13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I had my rear calipers rebuilt by Phoenix Calipers last year with amazing results. He provides an amazing service, and honestly not all that expensive either.



http://www.phoenixcaliper.com/

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[This message has been edited by Shho13 (edited 12-26-2021).]

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Report this Post12-26-2021 02:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by RotrexFiero:
The rebuild kits, from what I'm seeing, are very inexpensive. Even if I take it to a machine shop, it may be a good option. I've seated pistons, rings, and cams in engines. How much harder can it be?

Why special storage? I have an M1 garand made in 1950 with no rust and fully functional. It's never been stored in a climate-controlled mason jar.
Those parts/items don't have Brake Fluid in/on them.

Just Drops of fluid in used brake parts can ruin them over time sitting on a self.
Again, DOT 3 4 and 5.1 Brake Fluid draws water from Air. See my Cave, Brake Fluid

Water get in the fluid then reacts w/ metal then fluid sucks in more water to keep rotting the metal.
Not just brake parts but many metal things rot when fluid leaks on them. Paint removal power of BF is a known problem but can attack other finishes then go after whats under.

"Sealed" brake system in your car will do the same if you leave the MC cap off or otherwise open to air during a long project.
If you don't cause rust problems right now, Fluid can be easily so wet that Boil Point is close to 212°F/100°C... IOW Way lower then Boil Point on whatever bottle came in.
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Report this Post12-26-2021 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well, could one store them in a vacuum sealed bag? That would prevent any air/moisture getting in.
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RotrexFiero
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Report this Post12-27-2021 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RotrexFieroClick Here to visit RotrexFiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to RotrexFieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This whole thread reminds me of that movie, Apollo 13, the scene where they are problem solving, trying to figure out how to get home. There's those that think they can do it, those that think maybe, and those that think "nope can't do it".

The spirit of the Fiero community was we always could. The Fiero by conception was a never-should-of-been. It's been a battle from the beginning.

This past summer I followed a Boss Mustang home. At first behind him with open road ahead, and then side by side across a bridge. This thing was a 500hp monster and though I never passed or even paced him, I gave him a good run for his money in a car that's 35 years old. Was he wondering, "what was that?", or just maybe he knew. Who knows? The Fiero still makes a statement when it's out on the road, when you see one, which is rarer than any other car. That includes Tesla, Ferrari, and Lambos.
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